Tranona
Well-Known Member
Hanging offence! my rule is only one person operates the windlass, although I am mostly on my own so I only have myself to blame for any cockups.
Best material for deck pad under electric windlass?
- Thread starter R.Ems
- Start date
noelex
Well-Known Member
Foot switches are OK, but rather than couple of holes in deck the combination of wired and wireless remote is hard to beat in my view.
In practice the wireless remote is almost always used. This is most convenient option and is not expensive.
The wired remote provides a back up. The wired remote can be stored under deck, out of the elements, and is therefore tends to be be more reliable than foot switches. There is no risk of leaks or compromised deck structure.
In practice the wireless remote is almost always used. This is most convenient option and is not expensive.
The wired remote provides a back up. The wired remote can be stored under deck, out of the elements, and is therefore tends to be be more reliable than foot switches. There is no risk of leaks or compromised deck structure.
geem
Well-Known Member
My foot switches are ten years old. Never failed. Done 34,000nm and 3 Atlantic crossings in that period. They have taken green water numerous times. Just keep working. If you have a look at the insides of Lofrans foot switches they are super simple. The hole through the deck is for two tiny wires. About 4mm hole will do. No leaks. No sockets to fail in damp lockers.
One man's meat is another man's poison?
noelex
Well-Known Member
You have done better than average. The foredeck is not an ideal place for electrical switches.
As you note this area is subject to green water and this is combined with UV. A hard environment.
If you install a good wireless remote this will likely be used 99% of the time.
However, redundancy is always prudent. I would suggest a wired remote stored below decks, out of the elements, will be a more reliable backup than foot-switches. This also eliminates the adittional problems of holes in the deck. I am not suggesting that footswitches are terrible, just that modern wireless remotes have rendered them largely obsolete.
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geem
Well-Known Member
We have a wireless remote. We don't use it. We don't have s reliability issue with foot switches as I have pointed out. How do you get more reliable than reliable?
noelex
Well-Known Member
Most users prefer the convenience and versatility of a wireless remote, can I ask why you don’t use it.
KompetentKrew
Well-Known Member
I must say, I didn't expect them to be like that. They look big, so you expect a big hole.
geem
Well-Known Member
You can't drop a foot switch over the side. Foot switches leave you hands free. Our foot switches are perfectly positioned. We free drop our chain as a matter or routine so rarely need the down switch. When raising the chain one of us stands in the bow so foot switch is super convenient. We don't have to go and get the foot switch it's already there?
Zing
Well-Known Member
That’s a good recommendation for Lofrans’ switches. I’m on my third set of Lewmar deck switches in 11 years and I don’t even use them. Like Noelex, I use a low cost wireless. It has done well 10 years and still going.
Neeves
Well-Known Member
We have used foot switches, the same switches and wiring, at the bow now for 20 years - without problems.
We can stand looking down over the bow roller and operate the foot switches. This allows us to stop instantly if there is something seaweed, mud on the chain. We have a toggle switch at the helm - very seldom used it. We have never felt the need for a remote (as you would operate the remote with your hands and you need your hands to remove the seaweed). Our foot switches are in the same environment as the windlass (and solenoid) and if the foot switches were susceptible for failure we would have improved the installation of ... everything. If the windlass motor, solenoid and associated wiring survive I really cannot think why the foot switches should preferentially fail.
The problem with the toggle switch at the helm is that you cannot see what you are dragging into and burying in the locker. Mud will slowly remove the galvanising, seaweed will hold water and accelerate any corrosion. A remote needs hands on and my hands are busy with a deck wash and seaweed removal - which is presumably why foot switches are common - they leave your hands free.
Foot switches are really simple and in our experience are fit for purpose.
Noting that people lose their fingers through in appropriate use of windlass the device should be treated with immense caution. It should also be noted that some people are very stupid and this should be factored in to windlass usage (and any electrical switches on a yacht). A child can operate a remote.......and it looks like a toy. The idea that someone operates the toggle switch when someone else is working on the foot switches at the bow should be strictly controlled - but as I said - people can be very, very stupid.
Jonathan
We can stand looking down over the bow roller and operate the foot switches. This allows us to stop instantly if there is something seaweed, mud on the chain. We have a toggle switch at the helm - very seldom used it. We have never felt the need for a remote (as you would operate the remote with your hands and you need your hands to remove the seaweed). Our foot switches are in the same environment as the windlass (and solenoid) and if the foot switches were susceptible for failure we would have improved the installation of ... everything. If the windlass motor, solenoid and associated wiring survive I really cannot think why the foot switches should preferentially fail.
The problem with the toggle switch at the helm is that you cannot see what you are dragging into and burying in the locker. Mud will slowly remove the galvanising, seaweed will hold water and accelerate any corrosion. A remote needs hands on and my hands are busy with a deck wash and seaweed removal - which is presumably why foot switches are common - they leave your hands free.
Foot switches are really simple and in our experience are fit for purpose.
Noting that people lose their fingers through in appropriate use of windlass the device should be treated with immense caution. It should also be noted that some people are very stupid and this should be factored in to windlass usage (and any electrical switches on a yacht). A child can operate a remote.......and it looks like a toy. The idea that someone operates the toggle switch when someone else is working on the foot switches at the bow should be strictly controlled - but as I said - people can be very, very stupid.
Jonathan
dansaskip
Well-Known Member
Back to the pad under the windlass I would have thought that Tufnul would be the ideal material though I don't know about shipping it to the curve. I actually used a thick"plastic" chopping board under mine. I was warned that it wasn't ideal and wouldn't last but it was readily available at the time pretty cheap and I reckoned could be easily replaced .
I also use foot switches - as Neeves highly says, you can look over the bow and watch the lie of the chain and how it comes in. No problem with them thus far, and I don't like the idea of a remote - Now where did I put it?, oops Ive dropped it overboard! or damm the batteries are flat again!
I also use foot switches - as Neeves highly says, you can look over the bow and watch the lie of the chain and how it comes in. No problem with them thus far, and I don't like the idea of a remote - Now where did I put it?, oops Ive dropped it overboard! or damm the batteries are flat again!
geem
Well-Known Member
The OP has a curved deck so the material needs to be thick enough to allow the bottom to be shaped to the deck curve. Can you get Tufnel in 20/25mm thick? Ditto nylon cutting boards.
I think in his case a piece of 1" marine ply epoxied with a layer of 300g cloth then finishing cloth. A couple of coats of high build epoxy primer then sand smooth before two pack paint. Would last the life of the windlass. The base of the windlass would be dry. Apply some silicon to keep moisture out and bolt the windlass down. Some plastic sleeve around the stainless bolts and nylon penny washers under stainless washers and you can separate the stainless from the aluminium
R.Ems
Well-Known Member
Update, I have found a lovely piece of very old and hard seasoned oak, which I will use, and put a secret slice of thin HDPE or similar under the windlass base and feet, to insulate it from the wood. Very grateful for the expert input 
Tranona
Well-Known Member
It really does depend on the specifics of the boat and the routines that work. On my Bavarias the anchor locker was right in the bows with a lid, as was the windlass. This type of arrangement often leads to chain bunching up every 15m or so which means you have to stop and push it down. The wired control was a disaster as my daughter will tell as she leaned over to check for weed coming in and the windlass picked up the cord. Hence the rewire with the cord going back to the forehatch. There is no room for foot switches close enough to the locker to see over the bows.
Hence the wireless remote and the routine that the hand operating the button is the one used for pushing down the chain, so safe if you follow the rule. In 15 years of using one, on a lanyard around the neck I have never dropped it, lost it nor has it run out of battery. On the last boat it also worked the bow thruster and while I rarely used the windlass from elsewhere on the boat, being able to operate the bow thruster from anywhere including on shore was often a boon for singlehanded berthing.
Zing
Well-Known Member
For a backing plate in that area consider G10 fibreglass sheet. Rot proof, no galvanic issues and easy to work and prepare.
dunedin
Well-Known Member
Big +1 for a wireless remote that does both anchor windlass and bow thruster if sailing solo. Transforms things when berthing, as can hold bow in position when walking fore and aft along the deck.
Also use to drop the anchor in the chosen spot, and continue reeling out chain as go forward to watch the anchor start to set. Tend to use wired remote for lifting but just habit I suspect. No foot switches and no need for them. Got wireless partly as backup in case wired remote failed, though it had never done so (yet).
PS. Wireless remote had a neck strap with a safety break point - which tends to catch and release if doing fenders, so added a secondary string and snap hook to trouser belt loop - safe but secure.
PPS. Pressing wrong button when doing a tight turn to get into berth with rock wall a few feet away, when started dropping anchor instead of pushing bow to windward was “educational”. Now ensure only one system fully powered at any time.
R.Ems
Well-Known Member
That stuff looks ideal!
LONG_KEELER
Well-Known Member
Does doesn't it .
Quote
G10 is a fiberglass sheet laminate, a kind of composite material created by stacking multiple layers of glass cloth, soaked in epoxy resin, and then compressing the resulting material under heat until cured.11 Feb 2019
R.Ems
Well-Known Member
I just have realised I used the same stuff when I re-engined, as 12mm thick pads between the engine mounting feet and the old wooden bearers.
ghostlymoron
Well-Known Member
P
Plywood is my first choice for backing pads for the reasons outline by Vyv. It doesn't last for ever so should be protected with suitable preservative.