Best chemicals for flushing a raw water cooled Volvo Penta?

I would interpret the "clock face" as indicating the 2nd and 5th holes should be oriented at "just past 9 o'clock". I think the inset diagram indicates the 5th hole as this will continue to be visible for longer than the 2nd as the tube is inserted. I suspect the six o'clock line on the inset diagram is just for orientation.
 
I would interpret the "clock face" as indicating the 2nd and 5th holes should be oriented at "just past 9 o'clock". I think the inset diagram indicates the 5th hole as this will continue to be visible for longer than the 2nd as the tube is inserted. I suspect the six o'clock line on the inset diagram is just for orientation.

Haha!!

Many thanks for confirming that my own interpretation is ok, as far as it goes.

I know I'm showing my total lack of engineering knowledge, here, so do please feel free to to extract the yellow liquid, but ....... "just past 9 o'clock" doesn't sound that 'specific' to me.

I guess it means that the 'specific orientation' doesn't need to be overly precise, in this particular application?

Thanks again.
 
I agree. If precision was required it would be stated. For what it's worth I think it is about 275 degrees. Is it possible to mark the end of the tube and the engine to support orientation during insertion?
 
I agree. If precision was required it would be stated. For what it's worth I think it is about 275 degrees. Is it possible to mark the end of the tube and the engine to support orientation during insertion?

Thank you, thank you!!

I've read several online comments with serious sounding words like 'imperative', 'precision', 'accurate', etc.

So I was imagining that the holes had to mate up EXACTLY with corresponding holes in the cylinder head, or the cylinders wouldn't get sufficient cooling.

Maybe I'm too cautious/ pedantic, but your own "about 275 degrees" seems much clearer to me.

Edit: yes, marks on the cylinder head will be easy.
 
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If the holes MUST be at a certain angle then what are they pointing at
my recollection is that one of the holes is to cool the injector copp er sleeve and the other squirts down into the block
so worth looking to see if this is possible I am 99% sure that this is the case but have been retired over 10yrs
having had another look at the drawing I would say 100% sure
 
on the subject of filters, we have a jabsco fresh (tap) water strainer as raw filter, its perfect, the holes are much smaller than engine type, you can see easily how blocked it is, we understand that it needs attention more frequently, as it is so much smaller as well as having smaller holes, but it has never blocked completely, we keep an eye and ear on exhaust anyway, like most people who read this forum probably!!!
If you can ensure that all skippers are aware that its there and needs more attention than others that might easily be ignored all season, then I beleive that it is superior, I have thought about adding a second one in parrallel, then you could theoretically leave it twice as long between inspections (a brief look!!)
We do make sure sea cocks closed when off boat though, as if it failed structuraly, boat would sink pretty fast!, I am guessing that the dedicated raw strainers have a stronger construction for this reason!?
as for chemicals, any acid will do, with jabsco filter dosing is easy, isolate, cover off, and just pour into the middle , the impellor will suck it through.. i stick diluted acid in warm engine and leave it 20 mins or so.. volvo MD2030
 
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