Best Antifoul for Med?

[Star-Lord]

Micron 99 v International? The plan is to stay in the water for 2 years before lift outs. Hull being scraped and properly prepared for the first time in probably 15 years - possibly 20 years. Also… if I use Micron 99 now and then put on International down the line, is this a problem?

 

[Neeves]

I understand 'Micron' is a brand of International Paint. Micron has been around for some time but seems to have been modified, improved?, a number of times - way back it was Micron Extra. What ever is their current 'Micron XYZ' (which might be Micron 99) product now is their top of the range leisure formulation. They do make a 'better' product, called Micron 77 in Australia, but it is marketed to 'professional' applicators and seems restricted to large vessels, over 20m. Distributors can be persuaded (lacking the strict attention to detail of their suppliers) to sell you these better products (of which Jotun's Sea Quantum, comes in 4 formulations dependent on vessel speed or Hempel's Globic). These better products do offer the 2 year life you mention.

Many paints are compatible with many other paints (from the same or different manufacturers) but some paints are not compatible and do not bond (because the old resin system reacts with the new one). You need to define which paint systems, one of which is International's 'Micron 99', you are thinking of using. The best people to ask are the paint companies - simply tell them you want to paint their brand 'X' on top of Micron 99 will this be acceptable.

Jonathan

 

[Hoolie]

The choice of International brand erodable antifoul in French chandleries seems to be limited to budget Cruiser 200 and Micron 350. We recently antifouled our boat with Micron 350. We also used Ultra 300, which is a hard antifoul, on the rudder and along the waterline. It's also an International product and has a good colour match with Micron.

It was over 5 years since we lifted out and we previously used Micron (Extra I think it was called at the time). Generally the boat was in pretty good shape with serious fouling limited to high wear areas like the top of the rudder. The prop had been done with Velox but was close to being a problem.

I reckon it will be 3 years before we lift out again and the re-primed and painted Velox on the Autoprop folding prop should still be working well.

ps. Prices for antifoul in the French chandleries are eye-watering!

 

[Star-Lord]

I'm in Malta and Micron 99 is eye watering! Still waiting for quotes but waters here a bit warmer than France. Very interesting Re Velox for your autoprop (I have one). What primer did you use? Previously never bothered with matching antifoul... The last lot was red stuff the Galician fishermen use... It is hard. Is it recommended to use hard antifoul on rudder and waterline? I reckon if you do use hard then you can wipe the slime line... Been recently told Not to wipe slime line with self eroding anti foul because you take it all off!! Never realised duh.

 

[vyv_cox]

I have had Velox on my Autoprop for 8 years, very successfully. I used Hammerite Special Metals primer because I had a tin of it, very successfully. Since then I have heard of many problems with Velox' own primer so it seems to have been very fortuitous.

 

[Star-Lord]

I have had Velox on my Autoprop for 8 years, very successfully. I used Hammerite Special Metals primer because I had a tin of it, very successfully. Since then I have heard of many problems with Velox' own primer so it seems to have been very fortuitous.

So I presume this method would also work for the bow thruster props?

 

[vyv_cox]

So I presume this method would also work for the bow thruster props?

I assume it would if the prop is a non-ferrous metal.

 

[Hoolie]

I used the Velox primer but I'm not very sure how it fared. The prop blades were lightly fouled and the Velox still seemed to be adhering well. With scraping a lot of the primer came off as well and left the surface patchy so the prop had to be taken back to bare metal. The hub was well barnacled and was causing problems with blades rotating. It wasn't entirely by choice but it was over 5 years since it was done!

I have used the Velox primer again as that was what I had. I think it's ok as long as you carefully follow the instructions.

 

[vyv_cox]

I used the Velox primer but I'm not very sure how it fared. The prop blades were lightly fouled and the Velox still seemed to be adhering well. With scraping a lot of the primer came off as well and left the surface patchy so the prop had to be taken back to bare metal. The hub was well barnacled and was causing problems with blades rotating. It wasn't entirely by choice but it was over 5 years since it was done!

I have used the Velox primer again as that was what I had. I think it's ok as long as you carefully follow the instructions.

This photo shows my first year using Hammerite primer with Velox on top. this was 2012, at which time Velox recommended four coats. At the end of the six month season the Velox had chipped at the typical cavitation areas, possibly to some extent due to poor adhesion.

By 2018 Velox only recommended two coats, which reduced the chipping considerably. The Hammerite is the original two coats, simply rubbed down using 180 grit paper before two coats of Velox.


In each case these photos are after six months afloat in Greek waters and taken before pressure washing. I am still using the original small tin of Velox, about half left now.

 

[Hoolie]

Prior to using Velox we had a lot of problems with fouling that the Autoprop made worse by the blades locking at inappropriate angles. We have a long-handled garden hoe that my OH used to chip off the little blighters, but she hasn't had to use it all since applying Velox maybe 8 or 9 years ago!

 

[Star-Lord]

I assume it would if the prop is a non-ferrous metal.

Haha no I have synthetic bow thruster props. I will use the yards recommended option for these.

 

[Neeves]

The formulation of International (and other AF coy) varies from country to country as a result of different legislation allowing use, or not, of 'hazardous' ingredients. Europe may all come under the same restriction (very likely) - where the UK fits in now, no idea. The names of the AF also vary - maybe reflecting the different formulations.

Currently in Oz we have Micron AP, Micron Extra 2 and Micron One all ablative paints and Ultra 2 a hard AF. Micron AP seems to be top of the range and costs A$1000 for a 10l tin (sales tax is 10% here)