Beneteau Antares 30 questions

Dimensions of 24" Kogan: L57.9 x D3.8 x H37.4cm

If my scale photo is correct, the 24" will go in but tight. I'd appreciate a photo of your install.

Anders
 
Boat Television.jpg
Tele is 21" x 13" max. Think it is classed as 22" but not sure.Think its a diagonal measure,which I didn't take.
Bracket is bolted thru. bulkhead with an amplifier on the inside of the bunk bed room & aerial cable comes thru behind the tele . Haven't yet trunked the power cable but have fitted a double socket o/l in the vanity unit teed into the back of the euro o/l .Power for the amplifier is taken from the water pump in the lazarette, so when I switch off the water, ampl. is also off---so I dont forget! Running the aerial cable is a real pain requiring the removal of the starboard extnl speaker running cable down stbd rear pillar into the laz. across to the port side,down the void port side of the hull into the storage under the bottom bunk & then trunked up the wall to the amp.Required much patience to get from top to bottom !!!!
 
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Thanks for the info and pic, looks a good fit. Do the bolts for TV mounting bracket protrude much in guest cabin? I'll check out Hitachi website, forgot they made TV's.

Been researching batteries, what a mine field. Have you replaced your service battery yet? What brand are the oem ones?

Cheers
 
Boat is only 3 yeara old so original battery.make unknown but is on built in smart charger.tele is mains only, as we only need it in berth.bolts could have domed nuts as a finish but never bothered as 2nd befth is never really used.
 
Three years sounds a reasonable life going by battery life comments on here.

I had a reply from Kogan today, they confirmed the TV will need a regulated 12V supply to protect it. Probably easier to run it off mains as I'll have an inverter installed anyway (Victron MultiPlus).

Going down to visit boat at the weekend, weather permitting. Going to remove backrest on Flybridge and closer inspect batteries / electrical systems and engine room. Tingdene based in Windsor, so not far away either.

Anders
 
Hi Anders,
I have just taken delivery of mine (August) and I am very pleased with it. There is a small snagging list but that is to be expected on a new boat. I am sure the items on it will be sorted. I have the Seamotion edition with most of the extras available and the Stern thruster is a must. If you do not order any other extras at all I would definately recommend that you get a stern thruster. Being a single shaft it just prop walks to port when going astern as did my Antares 6 before. I keep it on a swinging mooring on Windermere so I will have to fit an inverter and 2 more batteries this winter but apart from this I haven't found any issues apart from the waves slapping on the hull when we are trying to get to sleep. I am thinking of getting something made up (hull nappy I think they are called) to soften the noise. I believe they are good sea boats and I would love to find out but my wife gets seasick, so Windermere it is. I have been shopping araound for 3 years and have looked at Grandezza(excellent finish but sterndrive), Rodman 31(excellent solid build but cabin layout not to my liking and no flybridge), Greenline(nice boat for a lake but not enough berths and no flybridge), Jeanneau NC9(brilliant design but sterndrive) and nearly new Sealine F34(my next favourite but 2 engines and sterndrive). As you can see I wanted to avoid a sterndrive due to maintenance issues and 2 engines were a no no as they are not required on a lake. Hope this helps in your decision. By the way the boat has been admired by many people on the lake due to it's compact dimensions and nice spec for the size.;)
 
Dinks, thanks for the comments. I'm going with Seamotion edition, stern thruster is on the list. Which stern thruster did you fit and where did they find space to mount the controls?

Interesting idea with the nappy, as a novice I doubt I'll be sleeping overnight at anchor for a while though. On a related note, I've been researching Anchors and the Rocna anchor seems to score better than Delta in setting and holding, so I might purchase one of these instead of supplied Anchoring / Mooring kit (if it fits bow roller). Kong Anchor Swivel also on the list.

Stu (Wonky) e-mailed these photos of cleats for the swimming platform, they seem a good idea.

Anders

cleat_photo1.jpg


cleat_photo2.jpg
 
I went to view the boat again today, big thanks to Ian at Tingdene for allowing me to pull apart the boat :)

Plan was to evaluate space for inverter and additional battery install to allow TV without shore power. I know some will flame me for bothering with TV on board, but I enjoy watching sport and like the idea of a morning fishing with mates then watching F1 at anchor in the afternoon :D

I'm thinking Victron MultiPlus 12V 1200VA, with built in transfer switch and 240V output for the water heater that's only active when plugged in to shore power. The engine room is the most obvious location, plenty of space although looks like some of the sound dampening material will need to be removed.

victron_multiplus.jpg


victron_multiplus2.jpg


I was surprised at size of Green lump, definitely need to sort servicing to starboard to avoid opening up both engine room doors for daily checks.

green_lump.jpg


The batteries were Excide Heavy Expert EE1403 140Ah.

batteries.jpg


I think second domestic battery could live here, not the best place from centre of gravity perspective but close to inverter and easy to access for replacement. Still researching batteries and unsure if it's worth outlay for an AGM battery or cheap lead acid that gets replaced every year.

saloon_storage2.jpg


My scale mock up was on the money, 24" for forward cabin will go in.

kogan_tv_template.jpg


tv_forward_cabin.jpg


22" for the Saloon

saloon_tv.jpg


saloon_kogan_scale.jpg


I had a look behind the lower helm through access panel in heads, there's a cut out ready for another Volvo gauge. Perfect because I want a boost gauge installed, i70 instrument also in the mock up. I'd prefer E95 display if it will fit in.

lower_helm2.jpg


Anders
 
Hi Anders,
I am also thinking of getting a Victron but I was thinking of going for the 1600w model and mounting it in the void beneath the helm seat where the battery charger is mounted. I think it should fit on the rear bulkhead there but I haven't tried to crawl in the hole yet!! The Cleats look like a brilliant idea and I will definately fit some if you know where I can get some the same. As far as anchors go I got the one supplied and haven't tried it in anger yet. The Stern Thruster was fitted by Dickies. the Bow thruster is a Maxpower and they were unable to source a matching Maxpower stern thruster at the time so they fitted a more powerfull Sidepower unit. They also exchanged the upper and lower Helm Toggle controls from Maxpower to 2 x Sidepower twin toggle units which are obviously compatible as they control the Maxpower no problem.. They do both work great and I can get the boat into spaces that I would never dream of trying in my last boat (Antares 6). Hope this helps
 
Let me know if it fits, I took this photo at the boat show it looks tight. The bending radius of battery cables in to MultiPlus won't help either.

void.JPG


Stu e-mailed the link to manufacturer, the UK company he ordered from are no more. Looks like there's two versions; stud mount with hidden fasteners or through bolted.

http://shop.acconmarine.com/products/23-folding-cleat.aspx

It seems Beneteau have changed suppliers on factory fit bow thruster - they now use Quick Nautical. With some luck the Sidepower twin control will be compatible with these.

http://www.quicknauticalequipment.com/?lng=en&cs1=01&ms1=2&ms2=6&ms3=30&ctm=0

Anders
 
You may find that a Brittany Anchor (as I did!) may be the only one that fits & stows on the bow roller.I also provided my own mooring kit as I considered Beneteau wanted an extortionate amount for ropes, fenders & anchor/chain.Immersion has no dedicated on/off switch that's readily accessible.Its on a position on the power distribution as in picture. only. A winter job to provide a dedicated accessible switch. Also the wiper switches have been moved by me as they are immediately above the power switch for the plotter.As generally wipers are used when weather is adverse its all to easy to switch the plotter off when you just dont need to! I drilled 2 holes above the switch bank & there was sufficient slack to move the switches.
 
When I stuck my head in the hole with a tape measure i reckon that it will go quite easily outboard so it can be pushed up into the void space to allow for cable bend radius. As I said I have not tried to squeeze into the hole yet so what I am saying could yet turn out to be a load of old rubbish (or I could lose a couple of stone perhaps). I have thrown a tape over the battery compartment also and plan to build a hanging bracket to suspend 2 more 140 Ah batteries and wire them up to the current domestic battery. I reckon they should just about go in there although it will be a tight squeeze and will make topping up the lower batteries impossible without removal of the top two. I could always buy 2 AGM sealed units which I am reliably informed will charge at the same voltage and put them on the bottom and leave the wet ones on top. Whatever happens I will probably give myself a hernia lugging them in and out !!! I didn't realise the Water Heater did not have an accessible on/off switch. I will need to fit one as the heater is 1200w and will flatten a battery in no time !!!! The way I have done my calcs should give me enough power for 3 days without the engine running which will be ample(I run my engines quite a lot when I am on the boat anyway). I also planned on fitting 2 small flexible solar panels on each side onf the anchor light on the radar arch. I hope it will not be too difficult to feed the wires down below through a charge controller and keep the batteries topped up when I am not there. I have a portable 13w panel which I used to leave plugged in on my last boat and it worked a treat. The batteries were always full when I got to the boat at weekends. Nowt worse than starting a weekend with a flat one (fnarr fnarr!!)
 
You may find that a Brittany Anchor (as I did!) may be the only one that fits & stows on the bow roller.I also provided my own mooring kit as I considered Beneteau wanted an extortionate amount for ropes, fenders & anchor/chain.Immersion has no dedicated on/off switch that's readily accessible.Its on a position on the power distribution as in picture. only. A winter job to provide a dedicated accessible switch. Also the wiper switches have been moved by me as they are immediately above the power switch for the plotter.As generally wipers are used when weather is adverse its all to easy to switch the plotter off when you just dont need to! I drilled 2 holes above the switch bank & there was sufficient slack to move the switches.

That's a shame, is it the locking pin that's the problem or general size issue? I had a trawl through Rocna website and found this pic with round locking pin. The anchor doesn't look a perfect fit, but it's on there! How much anchor chain vs rope did you buy?

http://www.rocna.com/kb/File:Pantera_R6_2.jpg

I planned a switch panel like the below, to give individual control AC powered devices. But I thought immersion heater only works connected to shore power?

http://www.power-store.com/view-item.asp?itemid=1441&id=234&
 
Immersion does only work on shore power but its a pain having to open the floor section in front of the helm to switch it on/off. I dont like to leave it on all the time we are on board as its a potential hazard & it costs in electricity! I was able to exchange my anchor I purchased, with a Brittany, with my chandlers which was lucky. I bought far to much chain as it was a cut length which is a bit of a nuisance & I cannot remember how long it is. As was the rope. The bow roller is designed for a Brittany as it seems to stow automatically. Switch seems similar to the existing one, but when one is faffing about in a chop,cant see too much I prefer to have my wipers on there own so I don't have to fumble around finding the correct switch
 
When I stuck my head in the hole with a tape measure i reckon that it will go quite easily outboard so it can be pushed up into the void space to allow for cable bend radius. As I said I have not tried to squeeze into the hole yet so what I am saying could yet turn out to be a load of old rubbish (or I could lose a couple of stone perhaps). I have thrown a tape over the battery compartment also and plan to build a hanging bracket to suspend 2 more 140 Ah batteries and wire them up to the current domestic battery. I reckon they should just about go in there although it will be a tight squeeze and will make topping up the lower batteries impossible without removal of the top two. I could always buy 2 AGM sealed units which I am reliably informed will charge at the same voltage and put them on the bottom and leave the wet ones on top. Whatever happens I will probably give myself a hernia lugging them in and out !!! I didn't realise the Water Heater did not have an accessible on/off switch. I will need to fit one as the heater is 1200w and will flatten a battery in no time !!!! The way I have done my calcs should give me enough power for 3 days without the engine running which will be ample(I run my engines quite a lot when I am on the boat anyway). I also planned on fitting 2 small flexible solar panels on each side onf the anchor light on the radar arch. I hope it will not be too difficult to feed the wires down below through a charge controller and keep the batteries topped up when I am not there. I have a portable 13w panel which I used to leave plugged in on my last boat and it worked a treat. The batteries were always full when I got to the boat at weekends. Nowt worse than starting a weekend with a flat one (fnarr fnarr!!)

It would be handy in that space, only a matter of moving charging cables to Victron and leave factory Cristec charger for bow thruster? Let me know how it goes.
 
Immersion does only work on shore power but its a pain having to open the floor section in front of the helm to switch it on/off. I dont like to leave it on all the time we are on board as its a potential hazard & it costs in electricity! I was able to exchange my anchor I purchased, with a Brittany, with my chandlers which was lucky. I bought far to much chain as it was a cut length which is a bit of a nuisance & I cannot remember how long it is. As was the rope. The bow roller is designed for a Brittany as it seems to stow automatically. Switch seems similar to the existing one, but when one is faffing about in a chop,cant see too much I prefer to have my wipers on there own so I don't have to fumble around finding the correct switch

Makes sense now, thanks.

How much chain is recommended to help anchor set? 10-20m? If I anchor to fish in 15m water I'll need approx 90m total, how do I choose chain vs rope length?
 
Wiring diagram for the 240v circuit

Immersion does only work on shore power but its a pain having to open the floor section in front of the helm to switch it on/off. I dont like to leave it on all the time we are on board as its a potential hazard & it costs in electricity! I was able to exchange my anchor I purchased, with a Brittany, with my chandlers which was lucky. I bought far to much chain as it was a cut length which is a bit of a nuisance & I cannot remember how long it is. As was the rope. The bow roller is designed for a Brittany as it seems to stow automatically. Switch seems similar to the existing one, but when one is faffing about in a chop,cant see too much I prefer to have my wipers on there own so I don't have to fumble around finding the correct switch

Hi Baldyash, I don't suppose you have a basic diagram of the 240 v side of things by any chance. The Beneteau book only has the 12v diagrams in and just a few photos of the 240v distribution boxes. I was wondering what the switches supply?? Does the Microwave come off the same circuit as the 240v sockets. Does the Immersion have it's own individual breaker under the helm or is it on the same circuit as the Battery charger? I need to find out one way or another as I will be wiring my inverter to supply everything apart from the Battery charger but will want to isolate the immersion most of the time. The fewer switches/extra wiring the better. Cheers in advance !!
 
I have just got back from a VERY noisy & windy night on the boat. Please to say everything is OK.I have the boat instruction & circuit diagrams but they are on the boat! Not sure if that is what you have. Its a A4 book about 20mm thick telling one how everything works & has all the electrical diagrams in the back. Not please to report that my battery charger had failed & discharged the house battery (fridge was on). Ran the engine to recharge.Fuse had melted in the charger. Easy to replace but why had it melted!!!. I will replace the fuse next visit & keep a VERY close watch, otherwise its a new unit!!!!!! . It has been on for 3 years mind you!!!!!!!! Its a dolphin make.Immersion is on its own trip in front off the helm & the other trip does all the other outlets I believe.(and the battery charger).Do you actually have your boat yet?--Not sure from the thread.
 
Dinks has a boat, I'm ordering mine in Jan/Feb for delivery June next year.

Edited: have you checked the supplied fuse is correct rating? Seen it before where wrong fuse has been fitted. I'd speak with manufacturer of charger because it doesn't sound right if correct fuse was fitted, too much power going through it.
 
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