Basic varnishing questions

[Little_Russel]

I am varnishing my tiller at the moment. Should I rub it down between each coat or just put 4 or 5 coats straight on? Also between coats should I keep the brush in water or clean it out each time? Sorry for the dumb questions! Ta.

<hr width=100% size=1>Sail the Se7en seas...

 

[supermalc]

Thinking back a looooong time, I was taught to rub down between coats in school woodwork class. The varnish covers equally, and the result is an even coat in the 'hills and hollows'. Gentle rubbing down takes the tops off the 'hills' leaving the 'hollows' to be filled with the next coat.

A friend (sadly deceased) started producing good quality reproduction furniture. He tought me the best finish for wood is linseed oil, followed by wax polish. French polishing, or varnishing should be rubbed down between coats. Soft steel wool used in a circular motion gives the best result for rubbing down.

Sorry it's not a very eloquent or definate answer. Probably a professional will have a better one.

Malc.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[ccscott49]

if you are doing this varnishing indoors, youca ansd between coats if you leave each coat more thann 18 hours, otherwise you can just keep building it up, then flat the last two coats, to give a glass finish. there are a couple of varnishes available which allow this by type, one is epifanes wood gloss finish, which allows buildup coats. The best stuff ihave found for thinners for proper varish, ot twopack and for keeping brushes in,is real turpentine, not substitute the realstuff. I also use owatrol in the varnish, makes it flow much better, for a really good finish. Hope this helps, I use 30-40 litres of varnish a year on my boat, so do a bit of it.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[mickshep]

I have used steel wool when finishing furniture before now but would check it is stainless steel wool, the readily available stuff is not and can leave tiny particles embeded in the varnish surface which will begin to rust. I find very fine wet and dry used wet to be as good but make sure the varnish is good and dry, also put a squirt of washing up liquid in the water used as this acts as a lubricant for the paper and you will get a lovely finish, also there is no substitute for plenty of coats, I put on a minimum of 8. Hope this helps, Good luck, Mike.

<hr width=100% size=1>"Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get me."

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

You should rub between coats using wet-or-dry paper, dipped frequently into cold fresh water that has had a few drips of washingup liquid added to it; this prevents the clogging that one would otherwise get. Wipe off the residue with a dry cloth and then - most important, this - follow with another clean, lint-free, rag dipped in turpentine.
I prefer traditional varnishes to polyurethane ones, where possible. Between coats I tend to keep the brush hanging in clean diesel. Would not work with polyurethanes though.
Fair Winds!

<hr width=100% size=1>Wally

 

[Guest]

The old way was to use traditional varnish thinned right down for first coat. This raised the grain and 'hairs'. You then literally sanded this off ... leaving the ingrained thinned varnish in the surface grain.
Keep coating with progressively less thinned varnish, sanding overall bewteen coats.
If you want full gloss finish - then final two coats are full strength varnish.
If you want that non-layered finish similar to furniture - then then final coats are still thinned , but depending on the finish and amount of gloss 50 -50 ... increasing the varnish increases the gloss .....
Hope this makes sense !!!! WE also used to wipe the coats on with a cloth .........


<hr width=100% size=1>Nigel ...
Bilge Keelers get up further ! I came - cos they said was FREE Guinness !
/forums/images/icons/cool.gif

 

[Blue_Blazes]

As per the others Re: thinned coats, rubbing down between coats, stainless wire wool or wet&dry, lots of coats etc.

Whatever you do, don't keep your brush in water. Water is absolute poison to varnish and will spoil the finish. That's why you should never apply varnish late in the day or in damp conditions. Better (but tedious) to clean the brush thoroughly after each use, wrapping the bristles in newspaper or kitchen roll to prevent them spreading. Either that or get a load of foam "brushes". I've not tried them myself, but I've heard they give quite a good finish, and you just throw them away after use.


Bill.



<hr width=100% size=1>One of these days I'll have a boat that WORKS

 

[AndCur]

I agree with the other posts just one word of advice is use proper yacht varnish
not the stuff from the DIY store as it does not last as long.


<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Spuddy]

I don't like polyurethanes for exterior use - they're too hard. When the timber moves around ( which it always will ) the film doesn't and something eventually gives.
definitely rub down the first coat because of raised grain, as mentioned.
To make sure no moisture on surface when overcoating, give it a wipe with meths which absorbs water.


<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[pelicanpete]

Use fine 1000 or 1200 grit wet or dry between coats, moving up to the finer grade on the last coat/s. Always use with a lubricant as others have said like Fairy Liquid, or, like me, a bar of soap. Finest grade '00' Stainless steel wool also okay but use dry.
Don't use a lint free/turpentine damped cloth as your only wipe down between coats. Rags, no matter how lint free will leave lint behind! Just before applying the coat, use a 'tack-rag' which is specially made to lift up all the fine particles. These can be bought in any DIY, paint shop for very little cost.
Finally, no need to clean your brush between coats or if left overnight. Get some 'clingfilm' and tightly wrap the bristles, sealing out the air. Varnish/paint only goes hard on contact with the air and you'll find this a great labour saver.

Pelicanpete.

<hr width=100% size=1>It's more important to be liked
than to like to be important.