kcrane
Well-Known Member
Looking good 
Back to the UK for a winter refit
- Thread starter jimmy_the_builder
- Start date
jfm
Well-Known Member
Very very nice Jimmy!
jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
Thanks all.
You've been a bit elusive recently jfm...? Tried to call you last week when the aircon guys were on the boat - they were there to reroute the raw water outlet to a below-the-waterline skin fitting; they've done it, but they were concerned that the aircon raw water pump was not designed to pump against a head - so they are warning of potential hpf issues with this revised plumbing. Have you (or anyone else with an underwater aircon raw water outlet) had this issue, and if so, how did you resolve it?
You've been a bit elusive recently jfm...? Tried to call you last week when the aircon guys were on the boat - they were there to reroute the raw water outlet to a below-the-waterline skin fitting; they've done it, but they were concerned that the aircon raw water pump was not designed to pump against a head - so they are warning of potential hpf issues with this revised plumbing. Have you (or anyone else with an underwater aircon raw water outlet) had this issue, and if so, how did you resolve it?
jfm
Well-Known Member
Sorry! I went to Zurich for a few days last week (work) and accidentally left my old flip phone at home (with my "main" number). I had iPhone with me so decided not to turn taxi back home to collect the forgotten phone. hence most calls to my usual number went unanswered
Nah, re head. That's a lack of understanding of physics. There is no head effect here - if you suck in u/water and discharge above w/line THAT is pumping against head, although the main head will be the highest point in the seawater circuit which is likely even higher than the hull discharge. If you discharge underwater you haven't increased the head at all, and indeed slightly improved it by discharging lower to a seawater point that is lower, but the main head effect is the same ie the highest point in the circuit hasn't changed. OK there is a friction like "back pressure" ish effect when discharging into water rather than air but tis negligible. I've never had hpf or any other performance effect and my discharge is in hull bottom below the chine. I do have a fairly big seawater pump though which is just immune to tiny effects like this. You want a backwards facing scoop (or as a minimum, no scoop) on a fast boat like yours of course, not a forward facing scoop
After Zurich I went to boat; will update thread now.
jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
Aha thanks for explanation. They (the fitters) were very keen to validate the u/w outlet with someone that had actually done it. In the new arrangement, inlet and outlet are at same depths below waterline; inlet has rear-facing scoop; outlet has no scoop.
As an aside, they - Seacraft Marine - were a delight to have on the boat, as usual. The actual mechanics of the re-routing of the outlet were very straightforward, thanks to the quality of their installation first time around. The hose had all been run in conduit, which in turn was clipped as required. So withdrawing the old hose was as easy as undoing each end and just pulling it out of the conduit. Routing the new one along the existing conduit was equally easy. All very nicely done. Hoping to get them back to assist with my big Raymarine install.
benjenbav
Well-Known Member
Sorry, for fred drift but apropos a recent thread about the use of proper nautical terms I read the last three posts wondering why you were trying to flush the a/c down the bog before the penny dropped about the use of the term "head" in this context. I suppose I'd better head for the bathroom and self-administer a swirly.
jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
Sorry, for fred drift but apropos a recent thread about the use of proper nautical terms I read the last three posts wondering why you were trying to flush the a/c down the bog before the penny dropped about the use of the term "head" in this context. I suppose I'd better head for the bathroom and self-administer a swirly.
you weirdo, wtaf is a 'swirly'?? (I suspect I might not want to know the answer to that...)
benjenbav
Well-Known Member
Jaysus. You weren't home-schooled were you, James? I thought everyone who had attended a place of scholastic instruction for members of the xy chromosomal community knew that a swirly is where you put someone's head down the bog and flush.
"Still or sparkling?" as my old schoolmates used to say.
jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
Jaysus. You weren't home-schooled were you, James? I thought everyone who had attended a place of scholastic instruction for members of the xy chromosomal community knew that a swirly is where you put someone's head down the bog and flush.
"Still or sparkling?" as my old schoolmates used to say.
I didn't go to school in England, maybe that explains it. I should have rtfm'd I guess...
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=swirly
benjenbav
Well-Known Member
jfm
Well-Known Member
Tee hee!
Jimmy, airco inlet needs a forward facing scoop. You only fit scoops rear-facing for outlets
Jimmy, airco inlet needs a forward facing scoop. You only fit scoops rear-facing for outlets
jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
Hmmm. Inlet scoop hasn't changed since original installation - but let me check again tomorrow, maybe I'm remembering it wrong.
Next project: replace or modify the bow roller to accommodate both the bigger anchor _and_ an osculati banana...
jfm
Well-Known Member
Don't forget the AnCam TM
What size anchor are you going to/from?
Howsabout upgrade to s/s chain? you can fit more chain in the locker with s/s than galvanised m/steel because it flows to the bottom instead of standing up like a walnut whip
jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
Don't forget the AnCam TM
What size anchor are you going to/from?
Howsabout upgrade to s/s chain? you can fit more chain in the locker with s/s than galvanised m/steel because it flows to the bottom instead of standing up like a walnut whip
Ancam is actually already in hand, in fact the cam itself arrived this morning. I've just gone up one size with the anchor, to a Delta 20kg from a 16kg. Although this doesn't sound like much, the shank thickness changes when you go from 16 to 20, and there is a suggestion from anecdotal evidence that this might help the anchor set. We'll see.
I hadn't considered changing the chain; I have 80m already, and have never needed it all; I think the most I've put out has been 60m. However, the main disadvantage of galv chain is its tendency to occasionally clump in the anchor locker, and then jam the windlass. Stainless would solve that, I guess, although stainless chain w galv anchor might look a bit odd. Plus, 80m of stainless chain will be *very* expensive, and I'm already over budget on the wider project
rwoofer
Well-Known Member
My anecdotal evidence supports that - the 16kg Delta was rubbish at setting, whereas the 25kg I had set much better. I think the Delta needs the weight to get the fairly blunt tip to bury.
The Rocna and Spade with much sharper edges that I have work really well in the smaller sizes. Now I wouldn't consider anything else than these new gen anchors for any size.
jfm
Well-Known Member
Goodo! Have you found a position for AnCam or do you need to set it up and try it? Would be nice if it works by just nailing the cam to the hull side, with no bracket
16-->20 is a significant upgrade imho. Plenty extra blade area - should be good. Yep, upgrading chain and anchor to s/s is pretty crazy money and not worth it when the only benefit is an occasional lack of jamming, aka a first world problem
Imho the aim with AnCam is to get the both the surface of the water where the chain enters, and the parked/stowed anchor, in the field of view. And angle the cam a bit forward looking so you can see the chain angle and water entry when it is stretched in strong wind. You need to mark the relevant places with trestles or sticks, if the boat is on the hard when you're setting up the AnCam
In the vid below I need to adjust the cam so the roller is a bit more towards top left of screen, as opposed to top centre where it is now (but it's #145 on my todo list)
16-->20 is a significant upgrade imho. Plenty extra blade area - should be good. Yep, upgrading chain and anchor to s/s is pretty crazy money and not worth it when the only benefit is an occasional lack of jamming, aka a first world problem
Imho the aim with AnCam is to get the both the surface of the water where the chain enters, and the parked/stowed anchor, in the field of view. And angle the cam a bit forward looking so you can see the chain angle and water entry when it is stretched in strong wind. You need to mark the relevant places with trestles or sticks, if the boat is on the hard when you're setting up the AnCam
In the vid below I need to adjust the cam so the roller is a bit more towards top left of screen, as opposed to top centre where it is now (but it's #145 on my todo list)
jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
My thinking for the ancam was slightly different. I think it would be useful to have it mounted on the pulpit facing straight down, so I can see what the anchor is doing as it comes up. Will also be useful if I beach the boat again to pick up guests (did this on the beach a couple of times at Brighton, in ye olde pre-Med days).
RogerRat
Well-Known Member
Now this is a good idea. I cannot see my blind mount anchor on the Azi. The anchor is a Bruce shovel and although holds well, not as good as a Delata imho. I have it connected on a nice swivel but it comes up the wrong way round most of the time. It's really hadr to see even when standing on the bow.
I'm stuck with it tho for hidden and complete stowing. Nice addition is that Azi install an anchor wash that washes mud off on recovery. Unfortunately, I need a plugin to view your video but can you recommend any 'AnCam'? and could I lnk it to my C120 on nmea or seatalk?
Any suggestions would be appreciated, I don't fancy any wires over the deck tho. :ambivalence:
RR
Just followed your Utube link. Nice little video and would be a nice addition, in UK we get mud that sticks though and a simple drop and raise won't clear the shank as in your case. I saw the camera mounted just under the gunwhale, must be a waterproof and shockproof, I would imagine.
Thanks for putting it up.
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Deleted User YDKXO
Guest
Had the same problem with my Azi 46. As you say, even with somebody at the bow and even with a swivel attached, the anchor would often still come up the wrong way into the hawse pipe. On our boat, the anchor then used to get stuck in the hawsepipe and it would be almost impossible to shift it. In the end, I kept a thick wooden pole and sledge hammer on board just for the purposes of whacking the anchor out of the hawse pipe! An ancam would have been a big help on my Azi
Agree that the Delta anchor is generally better than the Bruce. The Bruce works well in mud and soft sand but in anything else, the Delta is better IMHO
Pinnacle
Well-Known Member
Congrats. Its coming along really nicely, Jimmy. I am sure it will look original when complete.
Keep posting updates!
Keep posting updates!
