Back to the UK for a winter refit

[vas]

So today was a slightly scary day - I did this to my bathing platform:

In fact this is a necessary precursor to the removal of the existing platform, the point of removing the proximal margin board was to expose the machine screws that fix the bathing platform to the transom (you can see two of these in the photo, the clearest one is just by the end of the handle of the hammer). Still felt a bit uncomfortable taking a hammer and chisel to a perfectly good bathing platform though

oh!

great memories of chiseling and generally destroying MiToS with this pic!
was so much better than sitting in an office

I see Fairline chose flat screws (as in not Philips) to make it easier to clean the grove and undo them when the time comes.
Looking forward to some action J!

cheers

V.

 

[benjenbav]

U

oh!

great memories of chiseling and generally destroying MiToS with this pic!
was so much better than sitting in an office

I see Fairline chose flat screws (as in not Philips) to make it easier to clean the grove and undo them when the time comes.
Looking forward to some action J!

cheers

V.

Looks scary!

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

Got the bathing platform off this morning. In the end, it was quite easy, mainly because it is well bolted to the boat. Took a couple of hours.

Pods were surprisingly difficult to get off - no mechanical fixings at all, just a load of sikaflex. Took longer than the main platform.

Hull is rebated for the pods, and not coloured in the rebate.

 

[KevB]

I suggest one of these or similar to remove the old teak. I did my complete cockpit and bathing platform using one.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300Watt-MOSS-S1-Profesional-Oscillating-Multi-Tool-Wood-Metal-Blades-240V-/131344787917

 

[MapisM]

Pods were surprisingly difficult to get off - no mechanical fixings at all, just a load of sikaflex. Took longer than the main platform.
Hull is rebated for the pods, and not coloured in the rebate.

Urgh, that's definitely worse than I would have thought. Can't see the rationale behind that construction, it looks like a useless complication to me.
Isn't there also an undercut, potentially making the hull removal from the mould more tricky? Or maybe I'm just misreading the pic...
Anyway, as much as I'm not a fan of pods, neither aethetically nor functionally, in hindsight I must say that your original idea to keep and extend them is the best one. :encouragement:

 

[petem]

Please someone uplift my view of human nature and tell me that it's not sikaflex + (4x) mild steel self-tappers.

Pods were surprisingly difficult to get off - no mechanical fixings at all, just a load of sikaflex.

I said you'd be disappointed - why bother going to the trouble of screwing them on as well as using Sikaflex?!

 

[Deleted User YDKXO]

I quite that look, Jimmy. Junk the windscreen and radar arch as well for the genuine naked streetfighter stylie

 

[P4Paul]

Isn't there also an undercut, potentially making the hull removal from the mould more tricky? Or maybe I'm just misreading the pic... :encouragement:

It looks to me that the hull joint is above the undercut making it a positive pull from the mould

 

[jfm]

It looks to me that the hull joint is above the undercut making it a positive pull from the mould

No, the reason it releases from the mould easily is that the undercut only exists along the top of the trianglular footprint of the pod. Along the bottom horizontal edge of the pod there is no undercut/knuckle. This is because where the blue part of the hull meets the white part below there is a knuckle all the way along the hull, ie the blue is 20mm proud of the white, so creating the chance of an easy undercut for the pod and no problem releasing from the mould.

I think it's good engineering, if you want a pod in the first place at least. The undercut strengthens the glue bond. The bond is made from super polyurethane ie 3m 5200 style glue or sika 292 style glue so it doesn't need screws and it isn't going anywhere easily, as Jimmy discovered.

 

[RogerRat]

Got the bathing platform off this morning. In the end, it was quite easy, mainly because it is well bolted to the boat. Took a couple of hours.

Pods were surprisingly difficult to get off - no mechanical fixings at all, just a load of sikaflex. Took longer than the main platform.

Hull is rebated for the pods, and not coloured in the rebate.

There you go DIY Targa 38!

Ouch, you're brave, but it had to be done. Not surprised about the 'Sikaflex', good stuff tho.:encouragement: It's gonna be a great improvement. looking forward to seeing building stages.

RR

 

[jfm]

PS just for a change of tone, this pic was posted on the EBY/BCU twitter feed this morning. Pods!

Good going Jimmy. I was in Ipswich today and looked close up at the boat in your pic above (photographed in Ipswich). The jet black hull is a vinyl wrap done by grapefruitgraphics. Its glossy black and looks fantastic. The roll of black wrap was so wide that it reaches from the gunwhale down to the little knuckle level with the pod, so there are no vinyl joints in places that you'd see. They've gone right to the waterline even at the bow. I have to say, the wrapping work is just A1 perfect (as was my own silver wrapping; pictures later). Are you sure you can't be tempted to get Grapefruit to come and stick black on Vega, and then get black or silver canvaswork from Flexicovers?

 

[P4Paul]

No, the reason it releases from the mould easily is that the undercut only exists along the top of the trianglular footprint of the pod. Along the bottom horizontal edge of the pod there is no undercut/knuckle. This is because where the blue part of the hull meets the white part below there is a knuckle all the way along the hull, ie the blue is 20mm proud of the white, so creating the chance of an easy undercut for the pod and no problem releasing from the mould.

I think it's good engineering, if you want a pod in the first place at least. The undercut strengthens the glue bond. The bond is made from super polyurethane ie 3m 5200 style glue or sika 292 style glue so it doesn't need screws and it isn't going anywhere easily, as Jimmy discovered.

We are agreeing but your explanation is by far more comprehensive than my simple statement of a 'positive pull'.

 

[jfm]

Oops, sorry! OK yes agreeing!

 

[petem]

Good going Jimmy. I was in Ipswich today and looked close up at the boat in your pic above (photographed in Ipswich). The jet black hull is a vinyl wrap done by grapefruitgraphics. Its glossy black and looks fantastic. The roll of black wrap was so wide that it reaches from the gunwhale down to the little knuckle level with the pod, so there are no vinyl joints in places that you'd see. They've gone right to the waterline even at the bow. I have to say, the wrapping work is just A1 perfect (as was my own silver wrapping; pictures later). Are you sure you can't be tempted to get Grapefruit to come and stick black on Vega, and then get black or silver canvaswork from Flexicovers?

JFM, how long do you think a wrap would last? Just wondering, could you use it to protect the areas vulnerable to fading on blue gelcoat?

 

[benjenbav]

Oops, sorry! OK yes agreeing!

Ooh, you got a wrap J?

 

[benjenbav]

Got the bathing platform off this morning. In the end, it was quite easy, mainly because it is well bolted to the boat. Took a couple of hours.

Pods were surprisingly difficult to get off - no mechanical fixings at all, just a load of sikaflex. Took longer than the main platform.

Hull is rebated for the pods, and not coloured in the rebate.

Looks ok. Pods will look the biz. Disappointed in lack of self-tappers but there you go.

 

[MapisM]

No, the reason it releases from the mould easily is that the undercut only exists along the top of the trianglular footprint of the pod. Along the bottom horizontal edge of the pod there is no undercut/knuckle.

Yep, of course the upper part is not an undercut when pulling the hull, but at first glance it seemed to me that also the lower part was following the same knuckle - hence my comment.
I did say that I wasn't sure of interpreting the pic correctly, in fact!

I agree that engineeringly this makes for a stiffer bonding - actually, it would have been even more solid with the undercut also on the lower part...
Anyway, I rest my case on being a useless complication, overall.

 

[Hurricane]

I suggest one of these or similar to remove the old teak. I did my complete cockpit and bathing platform using one.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300Watt-MOSS-S1-Profesional-Oscillating-Multi-Tool-Wood-Metal-Blades-240V-/131344787917

Not sure that Jimmy needs the old bathing platform so probably no need to remove the old teak.
However, I read on here somewhere that the best way to remove the teak was using a router set to the correct height and work in circles until you get to the edges - then remove the final bit by hand.
Just something that I read and stored away in my head.

 

[petem]

Not sure that Jimmy needs the old bathing platform so probably no need to remove the old teak.

I think Jimmy's intention is to extend the existing platform by cut and shutting a new section in. See his earlier renderings.

 

[jfm]

JFM, how long do you think a wrap would last? Just wondering, could you use it to protect the areas vulnerable to fading on blue gelcoat?

I don't know Pete and haven't asked. What I would say is the the installation skill and speed is hugely impressive. It's properly faultless. No tears or bubbles or creases. And quite cheap, so if it lasted say 5 years I'd be very happy. Mine will get max sun being on a HT in the med with no chance of any shade so I'll report back on its speed of degradation. I'm going to ask grapefruit whether I should apply polish or A Glaze to help fight the sun

The one drawback is that the depth of the gloss can't match paint or gel oat. The black boat is pretty good but it is sort of like 25% matt paint added to gloss if you get my drift. My silver wrap is identical silver colour to my silver dashboards but nothing like the deep deep gloss of the awlgrip paint. I'm not complaining and it's a deliberate choice. The wrap is easy to repair, change, pull off for another owner, etc. and cheaper. And will look fine up on a HT. But it wouldn't look good protecting the aft corners of a dark blue boat in sunny climes IMHO. Better to spec a white hull and wrap the whole thing IMHO