Autotherm additions for install

steve yates

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I need to make some additions fo install the autotherm d2 unit a forumite sold me, but its boxed up on the boat and cant remember the diameters I need.
Can anyone advise me from memory or experience? I need 3m of exhaust, a skin fitting to take the exhaust out thro the stern, 2m of ducting and a 90 degree vent to make the turn from the locker to the cabinsole.
Also, any suggestions on wht and where to get lagging or insulation? for both the ducting the prevent heat loss and the exhaust to prevent it burning anything else in the cockpit locker!
Anything else that folk have found useful to add?
And last question, its a small boat and I'm mainly interested in warming the cabin, but could it be worth adding a vent into the cockpit? does that sort of thing actually hgelp keep you warm or is it just a waste of hot air being blasted away into the night?
Thanks.
 
I bought this glass fibre lagging from ebay:
Exhaust Lagging 75mm x 3mm x 5m.Narrowboat,cruiser,dutchbarge,fishingboat,engine | eBay

Aluminium wire to bind lagging in place.

I'm going to clad the lagging in thin aluminium from beer cans
and use foil tape on the curved bits:
Heat Shield Wrap Tape Auto Exhaust Pipe Adhesive Reflective Aluminum Foil Gold | eBay

That should give me an exhaust that's protected from water dripping on it and with it clad in metal I can tell how hot the surface is getting and know there are no hot spots close to the GRP etc.

I will add some brackets to support the exhaust and a ply panel to keep stuff away from it, as it's in a big locker with dinghy etc.

The exhaust itself has been a fight, I bought a 150cm one from ebay, it arrived crushed out of shape . Had to so some heating and bending to salvage enough to do the job, also using the short length which came with my heater. It's a very complex bent thing, as the heater and skin fitting were already in silly places. So it's got a short length off 22mm ss tube to join it. Which at least makes a strong point to mount it by.
Old exhaust had split possibly from stress.?

Mikalor W4 t bolt clamps for exhaust
MIKALOR W2 & W4 Stainless Steel Hose Clamps | Supra | Exhaust | T Bolt | eBay

High temperature silicone from ebay to seal exhaust joints.
Already had skin fitting.
Already had mounting bracket in SS
Added inline fuel filter and 1/4 turn stop valve.
various fuel hose clips.
I'm using a chinese heater,
Replacing a 6 year old smoky one with a new one.
Job has got sidelined by actually going sailing and making sorting the sail controls the new priority.
 
Thats useful, thanks. Im thinking I could tape the exhaust up with your heatshiled tape and then cover it all with this tube of lagging for extra protection? 22-24MM 2M EXHAUST LAGGING HOSES FOR EBERSPACHER WEBASTO DIESEL HEATER PRACTICAL | eBay
That would be neat if it expanded enough to go over other layers.
I salvage a bit of similar looking stuff, (although a bit woolly and frayed looking!) it wasn't keen to expand that much and it only slides over smooth surfaces, so I used it under the lagging I got from ebay.

It's very awkward wrestling with these materials head down in a locker, working on complex shaped exhaust. Hence wrap a bit, bind it in place with wire, wrap a bit more, hide it under some aluminium....
Also, just looking at glass fibre (e.g. loft insulation) makes me itch, so I wanted it all nicely contained.
 
The heated air ducting is 60mm, I believe, as mentioned here (and that's also what I recall from the installation manual when I investigated this model some time ago, but link to that not working on this site at the moment): https://planarheaters.co.uk/store/ols/products/planar-diesel-heater-2-kw-medium-boat-2-vent-kit.

I think the same dealer also has all the other parts you mention apart from the insulation. (Other suppliers available.)

p.s. Installation diagram here via another supplier - https://www.pfjones.co.uk/autoterm/...lation-Instructions_PF_Jones_PFJ-0035-min.pdf
 
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