Autopilot for fulmar

[john_travers]

I want to fit a ST2000 tiller. Does it need extension bits & bobs & brackets on the underside of the tiller?
Also - it would make sense to locate it on the Stb side as the power cable will be easier to route. Does anyone think different?
Thanks in advance for all advice.

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[tillergirl]

When you get the autodpilot, the manual will give you the fitting instructions/dimensions. They need to be at right angles to the centre line of the boat, attached at a precise point on the tiller, distanced from the pivot point of the rudder and horizontal. It all adds up to a number of dimensions that are not impossible be need a little care. Some mock-ups help. Can't speak for a fulmar but unless you're very lucky you are bound to need some bits and bobs and possibly might need to make an angled block for the mount if you have angled comimgs at the point you need to mount it. As for starboard fit, I think they all come set for mounting to starboard but you can reprogramme to port side if you need to. However much trouble though, it's well worth it/

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[butler]

have you tried offering the tillerpilot up to the boat, you might find a the fittings are allready there, good luck.

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[30boat]

I also have a Fulmar with a ST 2000.The mountig brackets came with the boat but work ok.If you want I can send you a picture .P.M me your E.Mail.

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[charles_reed]

Included in your kit will be a bronze socket for the fixed end of the tillerpilot and a stainless pin to go into the tiller.

The fixing instructions with the autopilot will give you specific distances from the fixed mount to the ss pin.

You can usually fix the socket into an epoxied wooden block on top of or underneath your cockpit seat (that allows you some latitude in height to the top of your tiller. Do ensure the timber block is well epoxied into position and the socket throughly bonded into its hole.

If you can't do it simply, you have a number of alternatives:

1. Extend the length of the arm; Raymarine sell a number of threaded sockets from 25 - 100 mm. Providing you can get relative heights right these can be used to extend the distance from socket to pin.

2. Fit an aluminium mount to the cockpit side. This has the socket already fitted and consists of a threaded anodised rod, which you cut to length and epoxy on the socket cap. The other end screws into a threaded collar which you bolt onto a near-vertical cockpit side at the appropriate height.

3. Get a series of under-tiller extensions varying in depth. This allows you to mount the socket lower than the tiller.

Could I suggest you make a mock-up aboard and then contact Raymarine Customer Service on 2392 693611 x 1230 to order your required extensions.

The least effective solution is the underarm extension these are held by two centre-line bolts and after a time the see-saw motion allows considerable lost motion. This can be mitigated by using a 2 -3mm stainless spreader plate or a 5 - 8mm aluminium plate.
The stainless pin invariably work hardens and produces a classic fatigue FM after about 30,000 miles use - I believe Raymarine are going to round the machining on the pin, instead of the hard ridge on current models.

I would query the serviceability of the 2000, or of any all-in-one autopilot with a membrane keyboard. This is simply because no one has yet produced a genuinely waterproof membrane capable of stading up to consumer misuse.
Because you do not state the vessel type and usage it is not possible to make any more meaningful comment.

Far better would be 4000 tillerpilot with the separate fluxgate, control head and actuator.
The 2000 forerunner used to last me about 1 season before being returned.

The 4000ST replacement has done 9 years, albeit with 2 rebuilds of one actuator and 3 rebuilds of the other (part of my preventative maintenance programme) and a new display on the control head (all LCDs deteriorate due to UV and IR degradation).

If there is any further specific information I can give you please don't hesitate to contact me via the BB



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[andy_wilson]

The Fulmar needs the 4000 ideally, though my research showed a few using the 2000.

It needs an under tiller bracket of about 100mm, they do a 90 and a 110mm I think.

When I get round to doing it I will fit at starboard side, where engine controls etc. reside, so the port side cosy corner remains uncluttered (which it should be anyway for helecopter evacuation heaven forbid).

Another advantage of going for the bigger model is that you can take advantage of the extra power and reduce slightly to 18" in front of pivot requirement, to allow you to miss the locker lid. Reducing this dimension will speed the response for any given trim setting, at the cost of slightly higher loading.

Still haven't decided wher to put the control panel (which doubles as a handy GPS repeater BTW, thus further justifying the extra cost!!

Now, where did that 600 quid go?

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[john_travers]

Many thanks for the advice. Good point about keeping the port side clear. Had not thought of that.

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[charles_reed]

Put the control head where it has some protection from the elements - mine resides on the starboard side of the mainhatch.

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[Guest]

And I thought you were a man, surely tiller pilots are for wimps. Its surprising who's name crops up on these boards eh? I've sent you an email direct but I'm not sure if you check them on this forum. You can contact me directly on bw@ttpcom.com

<hr width=100% size=1>Barry (yacht Mithril)

 

[jtwebb]

I would suggest the ST4000. I had a Fulmar and it required the speed of response to cope with any conditions. Mine worked fine. If the only use is to get sails up and down etc then the 2000 is fine but for single handed use the 4000 is better. It was on the starboard side and had a bracket under the tiller.

<hr width=100% size=1>J Webb