Attaching Teak Gunnels to a Steel Yacht

[patria]

We have a steel yacht with teak gunnels (toe-rail) consisting of separate toe rail elements placed end to end attached to the hull. There is evidence of rust beneath some of the toe rail elements and others are in need of repair. In both cases we need to remove the teak toe rail element and repair it and / or clean up the rust beneath it. We are looking for advice on reattaching the teak toe rail elements to the steel deck edge to ensure a sturdy watertight fit suitable for the marine environment. Does anybody have suggestions about how best to go about this and advise which materials we might use?

Thanks
Patria

 

[tcm]

I bet the fixings aren't A4 stainless if rusting is just there, and any unsealed wood may hold moisture against the steel anyway. um, bit difficult to say more without a photo. Exposed teak in a a working area like that will always neeed attention tho - can't actually metal be used instead?

 

[Das_Boot]

I have to agree with TCM. I dont like wood directly in contact with the metal. Where it is absolutly necessary I have used sikaflex to seal where the wood and the deck meet. I only attached the wood after painting (all coats). I only have two small areas where my winches are attached to the cockpit these are easy to look after. My toerails (gunnals) are 2 inch galavanised pipe this was done in the factory It might be difficult replacing the teak.
When using sikaflex practice a bit with your gun as you only need a thin application if you get it onto untreated teak you will need to sand it off.
The sikaflex will stop water from getting under the teak by capillary action but it wont stop it getting through the teak eventualy I therfore dont believe you can leave the teak untreated.

When I was buying my boat I had a choice of one with a beautifully finished teak on metal deck and one with a plain painted deck I went with the plain one. The teak would have been great on fiberglass or wood but an emourmous risk on metal.

These are only personal experiences and someone else might know more on the subject.

 

[Ships_Cat]

As Das_Boot has said you will likely not find a way that will avoid the problems you already have. Is bad form to run a teak or other timber strip as you describe on a steel boat, even more so if it is in sections, unless you are prepared for the maintenance consequences.

The best you can do is ensure a full epoxy primer/undercoat and polyurethane top coat paint system under it, Sikaflex sealant and 316 fastenings. Pre painting preparation should be by blasting back to clean metal in preference to grinding, but never by wire brushing or sanding the steel.

If you have the possibility of using a metal strip then either galvanised as Das_Boot or as in our own case a suitable section folded from 5 mm ss (for average sized vessel) continuous welded on and the hull paint system extended up over the welds at least (the welds can also be coved over with bog which also provides a better surface for painting - paint on raw welds not ground smooth or faired usually fairs badly due to the uneven surface).

John

 

[tcm]

supplemental re using sikaflex and sealant guns

agree, and using masking tape is quicker in the lot run...

sepretly i appreciate DB's bread gag in another forum but i am certainly not going to post on it...t

 

[peterbringloe]

I suppose I agree with das boot and tcm's comments that if you have the choice then a stainless steel toe rail/gunnel is best. But it's going to be expensive. Our steel boat has a teak toe rail in sections which is bolted to the deck. There is no sign of rusting whatsoever - unlike some other areas such as stancion bases and turning blocks. I think the secret is in a good paint finish (including the inside the holes for the bolts) and sikaflex. I would remove the existing teak sections (maybe one at a time) and examine how fixed. It maybe that after you have cleaned up the rusty bits and repainted you could refix tour teak with proper bolts and sikoflex.

The photo isn't very good but you can just see the teak toe rail sections on the builder's wesite:

http://www.dixdesign.com/dix38.htm

Sorry - haven't mastered posting pictures etc yet

 

[nedmin]

I bought my first Dutch steel boat in 1990. When I was at the factory I saw them fitting out one with wood rubbing strakes,it looked fab. In my foolishness I ordered the same. The result was I spent more time on this than the rest of the boat. The problem was the wood rotted from the inside.Wood and steel dont mix .I found the best solution was to sandwich Denso tape between wood and metal.I sealed the top with sikaflex and left the bottom joint. The only problem was,for a while in hot weather I had to wipe under with white spirit to get rid of the denso runs. But it solved the problem. If I was you I would get rid of the wood if poss.

 

[srm]

My last boat was steel with wooden toe rails. The toe rails were 'plank on edge' about 20mm x 75mm attached to lugs made from 25mm steel strip welded 20mm or so inboard of the deck edge. The toe rail was bolted through the lugs on the outboard side to give 25mm or so clear space between the deck and the bottom of the toe rail. Only rust was where the bolts went through the lugs and broke the paint film.

Sean.