Attaching jackstays to deck

[lockwood]

Finally got around to buying a harness yesterday. I have been looking at webbing for jackstays, but how do the jackstays attach to the boat.

I have deck rings fore and aft so assume that the webbing needs a clip either end to fix to the deck rings?

This sounds safe to me as the deck rings have back plates so they should take the load, but the only worry I have is the clip from the end of the safety line will be scraping against the deck, and chipping my paintwork.

 

[Talbot]

As you walk forward/aft, the friction of the ring on the jackstay (especially if you have webbibg jackstays) will make the clip pull tight against the jackstay, and thus raise the jackstay off the deck sufficiently to reduce the risk of paint chipping.

If you are introducing round wire jackstays, be very aware of the danger of standing on the wire as you progress forward, and the wire moving under your shoe enough to sprain an ankle, or in the worst case making you fall down and actually put you in danger of going overboard. This is not a trivial point - it is a real risk, and is the main reason for going to flat webbing jackstays.

 

[lockwood]

Yes, I had intended to use flat webbing. I was thinking 50mm polyester, but unsure of what clips/shackles to use.

Any ideas?

 

[Talbot]

I have used 100mm stuff that was then sewed into a 50mm tape, and had eyes sewn at each end. The forward end of both straps are secured by a single large S/S bow shackle, which is the correct dimensions to fit outside of the baby stay tensioner, and the shackle pin replaces the clevis pin. The aft connection is secured to the stainless plate that holds the turning blocks for the genoa. Thus both deck fittings are quite strong!

Some may call this overkill, but if you actually need this, the forces can be enormous, plus the webbing (and the stitching) does degrade in UV so needs to be replaced at least every 5 years, and needs to be inspected frequently for sign of chafe and degradation.

 

[kds]

This company do a full kit.
link
No connection - just a customer.
I use a circle of hard rubber on deck around u-bolt to prevent damage.
Ken

 

[TigaWave]

Cleat bases are good for attaching to...
If you're stitching or getting webbing stitched do it in a contrasting colour of thread, this way you can see if the stitching is getting worn much more easily. The stitching will chafe on the deck. If your in harbour or moored then remove stays, especially in the summer when UV degrades them.
Have a look at a climbing sling to see how best to stitch them if you're doing it yourself.

 

[dickh]

You should use 8 or 10mm 'U' bolts with substantial backing pads under the deck. One end of the jackstay can be shackled to one and on the other use a lanyard. Do be aware that any polyester webbing jackstay is subject to UV degradation and therefore I use a snapshackle at either end for stowage below. The only snag is that they have to be made exactly which can be difficult.
I will send you a PM with more info.

 

[Bassman]

It never occured to me that there was any alternative to getting them custom made. Spencer's in Cowes did mine, and even delivered them to the Island Sailing Club for me. Great service.

 

[bugs]

I remove my webbing after a passage to avoid unecessary weathering. A Loop at one end allows the strap to be threaded back into itself avoiding shackles at that end. The other end I normally attach to the mooring cleat. For longer duration I would tie the webbing to a second pad eye/ U Bolt/mooring cleat using a line with multiple turns. Stainless is strong but it does not show warning signs of weakening it just fails suddenly, especially under a shock load. using a line removes two stainless parts and avoids the deck scuffing that you are concerned about. You will often see this approach to attach lifelines to the push/pull pits.
It also gives you the ability to cut the lines free in an emergency.