Aspen alkylate petrol

mick

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In a previous thread, Minn mentioned the use of this fuel in the Honda 2.3 aircooled. If anyone else uses it I’d be happy to hear what they think. From what I’ve read it might be useful. Apparently there can be problems changing to it after lengthy use of standard unleaded, but if I try it I’ll be putting it in a brand new engine. I’m aware it’s relatively expensive.
 
Used it in my lawnmower (Aspen 4) and my Stihl Combi (Aspen 2) for years. It's great as it never gets stale but is a bit pricey.
 
I have never used it, never had the need to but I do know people that do use it and day it's very good.
Word of warning, don't use it as a substitute for being lazy. Even with Aspen get into a habit of draining your carb before prolonged storage.
 
In a previous thread, Minn mentioned the use of this fuel in the Honda 2.3 aircooled. If anyone else uses it I’d be happy to hear what they think. From what I’ve read it might be useful. Apparently there can be problems changing to it after lengthy use of standard unleaded, but if I try it I’ll be putting it in a brand new engine. I’m aware it’s relatively expensive.

I would be interested In finding out the problems changing from Aspen to Standard unleaded. Should be no difference
 
I would be interested In finding out the problems changing from Aspen to Standard unleaded. Should be no difference


Apparently some people report problems when changing to Aspen. Something to do with rubber components. Can’t do a link but if you search under ‘Aspen fuel problems’ you’ll get the gist.
 
There's no need to use Aspen, even in new o/boards.

Use premium petrol, plus a 2T oil if a 2 stroke, and then add a proper dose of a fuel treatment additive such as Fuel Set, Briggs and Straton Fuel Fit, or other makes.

I have used the B&S dosage in chains saws, gennies, strimmers, etc, for 5 years. During that time I have not come across any hardened fuel pipes, gummy gaskets, or solid depositis in carb bowls.
 
To be brutally Frank, if you follow the instructions from Honda, drain the carb and close the fuel tap and vent you won't need Aspen, and as the the tank only holds One litre I would say emptying the fuel tank before storage is equally as effective and cost efficient.
 
I don't think Aspen would affect rubber components - it has no aromatics and no ethanol in it.

Some comments on chainsaw forums suggest that Aspen is fine in a new engine, but can expose problems if used in an older engine which has been used with regular fuel. Seems like degradation of rubber components caused by regular fuel is stopped, and components may then shrink causing leaks or problems. If you're using it in a new engine, you should have no problems (but then you wouldn't have had problems running it on regular fuel!).
 
I wouldn't have thought it would cause any damage....still can't understand with there would be can issue changing from Aspen to Unleaded

The suggestion is there’s a potential problem the other way - using Aspen after an extended period on standard fuel.
 
To be brutally Frank, if you follow the instructions from Honda, drain the carb and close the fuel tap and vent you won't need Aspen, and as the the tank only holds One litre I would say emptying the fuel tank before storage is equally as effective and cost efficient.

Steve, on this point, is it better to run the engine until the carb is empty or to simply drain the fuel off?
 
Steve, on this point, is it better to run the engine until the carb is empty or to simply drain the fuel off?

Hi Mick
If you can and have the tools at hand drain the bowl. If it's an issue, turn off the fuel and run until it stops. I tend to run mine until the carb is empty and I have never had a carb issue
 
I’ve left the Aspen in my mowers carb for at least 6 months every year for the past 7 years and didn’t have any problems.
 
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