Aqua4gen

Allan

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I've just been lucky enough to acquire what I believe is an Aqua4gen. I've found a manual online and skimmed through it. Does anyone have any experience of using one? In particular I'd quite like to hear more about voltage control. Is it necessary? Is there a recommended unit?
For testing next week I'm planning to just connect it to the batteries via an amp meter.
Allan
 
Wot Graham says, also iirc, you need the dual battery version if you are charging a battery which is also charged by other sources, eg the alternator
 
Most people prefer to install solar panels.
Indeed. Not a lot of use to you because there would be no point splitting it but I’ve got the whole Aquagen kit somewhere in the garage, inherited with the boat but never used by us because solar is just easier.
 
I searched high and low looking for a charge controler for an aero/aqua gen.. The problem is the dc output needing a dump load for when the batteries are fully charged.
Nearly all other turbines put out ac and there are many charge controlers for those.
It is ok to connect directly to the batteries but you need to be there to disconnect when the batteries are fully charged.
I ended up using this made by leading edge.. Leading Edge DL-300 Wind Turbine Charge Controller

"The DL-300 dump load controller operates like an electrical overflow for your batteries. This means that the turbine is always running – and not being switched on and off as is the case with other charge control methods. It also means that your batteries are never ‘cycled’ through on / off charging techniques and this will prolong the life of your expensive battery bank.".
 
The Aqua4gen is a great piece of kit, We have the Aero4Aquagen which is the unit that converts from wind to water (which is a bit of a faff - but worth the effort). We also have all the other bits and pieces as we bought it as the complete kit. The unit performs best in the Aqua mode - as long as you are making a decent speed, like 4-5 knots. I don't recall the data but 10knots boat speed equates to 10 amps (I stand to be corrected). It is also a bit of a faff to set up )you would not leave it on your transom (I imagine it would walk) and really its only worthwhile on long passages. If you can source the regulator and dump resistor - or equivalent, your yacht is large enough to generate the sorts of speeds needed and you make long passages (ie using most of daylight hours or more) - you have a winner.

Jonathan
 
Question for those more knowledgeable - the Aerogens have a bridge rectifier mounted in the case so, if that was binned so ac output down the wires, would other controllers work?
Not 100% certain but you will probably find the a.c. O/P is 3 phase. You would have to check each individual unit for compatibility.
 
Many thanks for all the replies. As the Aquagen produces DC, like solar panels, I'm wondering about using a solar controller with a dump resistance on the load output. Before I do I'll be taking it apart to see what it's like inside.
According to the manual I can use it connected directly to the batteries, as long as I monitor the output.
Allan
 
Many thanks for all the replies. As the Aquagen produces DC, like solar panels, I'm wondering about using a solar controller with a dump resistance on the load output. Before I do I'll be taking it apart to see what it's like inside.
According to the manual I can use it connected directly to the batteries, as long as I monitor the output.
Allan

Off load voltage is far higher than normal boat solar panels, I got quite a belt off mine when connecting it up when spinning - measured 80v on my meter and the wind had dropped a bit by then.
 
We have an Aquair, similar to the Aquagen in that it outputs unregulated dc current. The no load voltage can be high (upwards of 40v) but we connect it directly to the batteries and the resistance of the bank handles the current and drops the voltage down to a reasonable charging voltage (say 13.9 - 14 v). Given that our bank is never fully charged and is under load when sailing, we find that we don’t need a regulator for it: as Neeves says, we get about 1 amp per knot above about 4 knots.
We rarely use it in the wind mode, as the hassle converting and hoisting it out weighs the benefits unless we expect sustained winds in excess of 15knots. You have to monitor the batteries to make sure that overcharging doesn’t happen.
The so what of all that is I wouldn‘t advise leaving the wind option set up when you’re not on the boat (if you’ve got the wind option) and to monitor the batteries when using the water mode and be prepared to disconnect it if your batteries get overcharged. This is in line with the recommendation in the manual, which also give instructions for fitting and using the Aquair regulator which is an optional extra for those wishing to leave the boat unattended with the wind option rigged.
As to setting it up, we keep our permanently mounted on the pushpit during the season. It’s a fiddly thing to remove, most folks don’t know what it is and we’ve had ours for 8 years now with no hint of anyone trying the pinch it.
 
As the Aquagen produces DC, like solar panels, I'm wondering about using a solar controller with a dump resistance on the load output.
It might fry the solar charge controler due to the potential high voltage. . It must be a shunt diverting type regulator that always keeps the Aquagen on load.
It seems the max amps is 11 when towed as 10 to 11 knts is when it starts coming out of the water but in wind mode can do up to 20 amps.

Question for those more knowledgeable - the Aerogens have a bridge rectifier mounted in the case so, if that was binned so ac output down the wires, would other controllers work?
Thats a question i asked myself.. Most brake the turbine once the batteries are full.. I have no idea if the aquagen would cope with that.
The biggest problem is how do you get 3 wires down the pole without them getting wound around and around.. It has slip rings for two brushes (+ & -) to enable rotation..

As a wind turbine i rate these very highly as ive never come across any turbine that gets close to being as quiet as the aerogens are and will spin trouble free for at least 25 years.
 
We have an Aquair, similar to the Aquagen in that it outputs unregulated dc current. The no load voltage can be high (upwards of 40v) but we connect it directly to the batteries and the resistance of the bank handles the current and drops the voltage down to a reasonable charging voltage (say 13.9 - 14 v). Given that our bank is never fully charged and is under load when sailing, we find that we don’t need a regulator for it: as Neeves says, we get about 1 amp per knot above about 4 knots.
We rarely use it in the wind mode, as the hassle converting and hoisting it out weighs the benefits unless we expect sustained winds in excess of 15knots. You have to monitor the batteries to make sure that overcharging doesn’t happen.
The so what of all that is I wouldn‘t advise leaving the wind option set up when you’re not on the boat (if you’ve got the wind option) and to monitor the batteries when using the water mode and be prepared to disconnect it if your batteries get overcharged. This is in line with the recommendation in the manual, which also give instructions for fitting and using the Aquair regulator which is an optional extra for those wishing to leave the boat unattended with the wind option rigged.
As to setting it up, we keep our permanently mounted on the pushpit during the season. It’s a fiddly thing to remove, most folks don’t know what it is and we’ve had ours for 8 years now with no hint of anyone trying the pinch it.
We've successfully used one in the same manner, on four passages totalling almost 6,000 miles. If you monitor the batteries not having the regulator isn't an issue, unless you have a very fast boat that's frugal on electricity consumption.
 
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