Applying antifoul - novice rookie question

[Chiara’s slave]

I should have mentioned the foam roller issue, but we buy ours from a pro paint supplier who brings them in a van to sell on the doorstep so to speak. He doesn’t bring the ones that dissolve, as he knows he’d have to take them away between his arse cheeks.

 

[michael_w]

I get my painting supplies from SML Coatings very helpful company. Their funky purple masking tape is so much better than the standard blue or white stuff.

 

[jwilson]

Apart from making my ancient multiple-times-dislocated shoulders ache, 9" rollers use about £10 worth of expensive AF before you've even started. You can tell I'm a mean (parsimonious) Scot. Short pile rollers, and throw the roller and handle (and sometimes the tray) away after you finish. You'd spend more in thinners cleaning them.

 

[Momac]

I used a 9 inch medium pile roller but didn't use the pole this time. A 4 inch foam roller and a brush for the fiddly bits .
Green frog masking tape

 

[johnalison]

Apart from making my ancient multiple-times-dislocated shoulders ache, 9" rollers use about £10 worth of expensive AF before you've even started. You can tell I'm a mean (parsimonious) Scot. Short pile rollers, and throw the roller and handle (and sometimes the tray) away after you finish. You'd spend more in thinners cleaning them.

I don't believe that a 9" roller wastes any significant amount of paint. By the time you've squidged out the last bit when you finish there will be very little left on the roller. Those of us who use a pole find that you can work much faster and even avoid painting your face. I mislaid my cheap pole this year and bought a telescopic one, but I found it a bit of a nuisance since any twisting in the wrong direction loosened the thingy that holds the length.

With a pole, and thus two arms, it is easy to get enough pressure to use a long pile roller, and the greater load makes it quicker, with fewer reloads, not to mention the ease of reloading from a tray on the ground without having to stoop. I can do two coats of my 34 in a day, keeping the roller in a plastic bag during my lunch-break.

 

[Scubadoo]

The same as others, 4" short pile roller. For the paint roller tray, I use those clear plastic tray inserts usually a pack of 5 which is cheaper, also use cling film around the roller and paint brush which keeps them for the next day.

 

[Bobc]

I use aa 9" roller on a telescopic handle on a 50 ft 2.1 draft mono hull.

I use 20 lits to ant foul my boat with 2 coats all over and an extra coat on waterline and leading edges

Use old cloth's and tape a plastic bag on your head and use a mask to protect eyes and rubber gloves to keep hands clean

I use less that 5 litres to do mine with a 4" roller. Also 50ft with 2.1m draft doing 2 coats.

 

[thinwater]

The nice thing about novice questions is that everyone can pile on with answers!

• The length of the roller depends on the compound curve of the hull. Multihulls have little compound curve, so we always use 9" rollers.
• Pile. That's what Pettit and International recommend (I just checked the sites--"3/16" or less nap").
• It will not drip on your head, because if you are smart, you will use a 2-4' roller handle. Better leverage, more to hold on to, much easier on the wrists, less bending over, and faster. Why would you not use an extension? The only time I did not use an extension was the first 10 minutes of my first bottom job, many decades ago. Too much bending over and too hard on the wrists, particularly after sanding. I took a wooden handle and cut it off. I bring it out every 2 years.
• Mini-rollers are handy for tight spots. They make them with a long wire extension, very good for center board cases.
• Chip brushes. Don' try to save either the rollers or the brushes; the paint will go on lumpy. New ones for each coat.

I actually weighed the difference in paint waste for 9" vs. 4" rollers for an article. The 9" pile rollers put it on more evenly and so used less paint than the smaller rollers. Your boat could be different. If you're smart you will roll the excess off on the boat when you are done anyway, so there should not be much on the spent rollers.

The main thing I have used mini-rollers for with antifouling, is when I had to apply 30 different paints to test panels, and 6 different paints on my boat! But normally I only use them on the CB case and a few tight spaces. Even the long, skinny amas are painted with a 9" roller, moving fore-aft. Very fast.

 

[Habebty]

I would also add disposable paper type overalls with hood - a must). Use either disposable latex gloves or reusable waterproof gloves. Goggles also useful.

 

[Chiara’s slave]

I would also add disposable paper type overalls with hood - a must). Use either disposable latex gloves or reusable waterproof gloves. Goggles also useful.

Sensible advice there. In spite of the fact that modern antifouls seem to actually attract growth, they are still a toxic substance, you’d do well to keep them off your skin. Thinwater and I will have to agree to differ over paint wastage, 9” rollers hold a lot IMHO. And foam rollers give a flatter finish, though the other key ingredient is rounded shoulders. Otherwise you get thicker lines in the paint at the edges of a rolled strip. Some of you cruising types I know don’t care about this, but it makes a difference. I can feel a good paint job in the tiller on an XOD. And that is a magnificently slow boat. Before an important race we burnish and use Harken hull kote, but no point if your paint finish isn’t perfect. People call us obsessional, and are them horrified by our light wind speed.

 

[Neeves]

Sensible advice there. In spite of the fact that modern antifouls seem to actually attract growth, they are still a toxic substance, you’d do well to keep them off your skin. Thinwater and I will have to agree to differ over paint wastage, 9” rollers hold a lot IMHO. And foam rollers give a flatter finish, though the other key ingredient is rounded shoulders. Otherwise you get thicker lines in the paint at the edges of a rolled strip. Some of you cruising types I know don’t care about this, but it makes a difference. I can feel a good paint job in the tiller on an XOD. And that is a magnificently slow boat. Before an important race we burnish and use Harken hull kote, but no point if your paint finish isn’t perfect. People call us obsessional, and are them horrified by our light wind speed.

Those who are serious about racing - dry sail.

Jonathan

 

[MikeCC]

There is a compromise - 7" rollers. The Anza short pile ones are excellent although a bit pricey. Hardly any bits coming off.

 

[Chiara’s slave]

Those who are serious about racing - dry sail.

Jonathan

No they don’t, in XODs. The class rules prohibit it.

In any case only a fool would do it, they are traditionally constructed, and drying out could be catastrophic.

 

[Neeves]

No they don’t, in XODs. The class rules prohibit it.

There are always obscure exceptions.

For Etchells, wet or dry Etchells have separate races.

 

[Chiara’s slave]

There are exceptions to every rule.

Yes. Obviously you can’t be expected to know the rules of a Solent based one design class. But that is the reason for my post, a lot of UK based people will know.

 

[Mark-1]

No they don’t, in XODs. The class rules prohibit it.

Can you point out where? I don't doubt it, I'm just curious how they word it:

https://xonedesign.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/XOD-Class-Constitution-Rules-2024-2025.pdf

PS: I checked last night. 9 inch rollers for me, with no care taken over the roller - just whatever Tescos or the chandler have, or what's left in my decorating box. Must have been lucky. I've never used a long handle and I'm kicking myself for that.

 

[Chiara’s slave]

Can you point out where? I don't doubt it, I'm just curious how they word it:

https://xonedesign.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/XOD-Class-Constitution-Rules-2024-2025.pdf

PS: I checked last night. 9 inch rollers for me, with no care taken over the roller - just whatever Tescos or the chandler have, or what's left in my decorating box. Must have been lucky. I've never used a long handle and I'm kicking myself for that.

You have to be continuously afloat. If you need to be out for over 50 hours you need to seek the permission of your divisional captain. Section C.7

 

[Mark-1]

You have to be continuously afloat. If you need to be out for over 50 hours you need to seek the permission of your divisional captain.

Thanks!

 

[Neeves]

Yes. Obviously you can’t be expected to know the rules of a Solent based one design class. But that is the reason for my post, a lot of UK based people will know.

Its an obscure and exclusive class (you have to race in one of 6 Solent based clubs), I doubt many, any, outside the Solent in the UK know (or care) about XODs let alone the rules. There are roughly 200 XODs no one except an owner would know the rules. Flying 15s, J24s are counted in their thousands and Dragons can number over 1,000 (and the 3 yachts are raced internationally.)

There is always an exception, not necessarily in any way typical.

But I am sure if you own and race one, and live in or near the Solent - they are great yachts to race. The entry fee seems a bit daunting.

Jonathan

 

[Mark-1]

I doubt many, any, outside the Solent in the UK know (or care) about XODs let alone the rules

Well, as of today, I know *one* of the rules!