Anyone replaced the bushings in a Penta raw water pump?!

[Feneris]

I'm hoping someone can advise me on the overhaul of a Penta raw water pump on an AQ170C. There was dripping from the tell-tale drip hole in the waterpump. A previous owner had a solution for this - wrap a bit of cloth round it and hold in place with a cable tie... drip solved!!

There was also a spare, old water pump in the boat when I got her so I had 2 broken pumps to compare.

It's dripping because the water seal is leaking. The seal is leaking because the seal has worn into the shaft, and the wear is 'rough'. Also, the bushings that act as bearings are worn, along with wear on the shaft, so the shaft has play in it(On both pumps).

Correct option - buy a full pump service kit from Tricket or Keypart (bit more pricy), which gives replacement bushings, shaft, seals. Costs £90 - £105.

Problem I've got is how to extract the bush from the front cover plate. Has anyone done this??

Other idea is to lathe the central shaft down very slightly, from 16mm to maybe 15.88, buy an 5/8ths (15.88mm) bush and lathe down the outside of the bush to fit the pump. This will take a few hours on the lathe, but would save about £70. I've got a spare pump to 'play with'. I would still have to get the bush out of the front plate thou.

What are your thoughts?? Cheers, F

 

[GMs Sceptre]

Hello,
Did the same rebuild on my tmd 41a early this year, replaced shaft seals and bearings reasonably straight forward.
Not a marine engineer, but have been in engineering hands on , past 40years
( hate to say that makes me feel I,m getting old) I would always take the easy route of fitting standard size parts.

 

[Peanuts]

Hi (Once again)

I will answer you, what I would do is phone Keyparts, explain the situation and they will supply a kit that will replace the shaft, seals (cheapest option) and bearings if required (more expensive and the price you quoted). I cannot remember the last price for the shaft and seals but it was not as bad as I thought it would be, just remember to install the o ring and special washer when putting it back together although not sure if you have those on your pump (don't think so)

Is the impellor side of the pump bearing OK or is it U/S? The engine side bearing will normally be OK. Just identify or measure up the bearing or maybe spin one up as you mention.

I will answer any questions you may have when you are ready to put it all back together.

Hope that sort of helps you (for the moment)

 

[gary111160]

Hi

I had the same drip on my pump which looks identical to yours on a 130d engine. Same vintage but 4 not 6 cylinders.

The shaft looked worn but all I changed were the seals. A kit for your engine is £7.79 from Keyparts. New seals took up any wear in the shaft and leak fixed.

I would get the seal kit first and try that before anything else. Easy job.

Gary

 

[Pendana]

This thread shows in pictures how I fixed mine
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=229177

 

[DAKA]

Hi

I had the same drip on my pump which looks identical to yours on a 130d engine. Same vintage but 4 not 6 cylinders.

The shaft looked worn but all I changed were the seals. A kit for your engine is £7.79 from Keyparts. New seals took up any wear in the shaft and leak fixed.

I would get the seal kit first and try that before anything else. Easy job.

Gary

Might get away with seals only if you are in,land based and only splash the bearings with fresh water for a short time.

But the op has been leaking for a while (rag wrapped round it).

Change the bearings and the pump seal otherwise the bearings will fail soon and you will have to do it all again.

Agreed if the shafts are not too bad then the seals will seal it, they have springs in and can cope with a bit of wear.
depends how many hours you want the repair to last, new bearings and seals should be good for 4 years as long as you only do 200 hours.
Otherwise need a complete rebuild kit.

Check ASAP supplies for jabsco spare prices.

 

[Peanuts]

Pendana

The pump in question is slightly different as it does not have roller bearings if I remember correctly, if it had the job is quick and easy to sort out. I am not sure if VP even supply the sleeve bearing anymore but I am prepared to be corrected on that one (and probably will be). Easy enough to spin up on a lathe though.

 

[H2O]

Have done this numerous times on VP 171 and a couple of friends 151 Engines looks very similar pump. To remove the bush out of end plate (blind hole), put some grease into the bore of bush approx.1/2way up then using a drift/(piece of metal) slightly smaller( standard 5/8” bar will do X about 4" long ) than the bore size of the bush, place inside the bush then place the cover on a sound surface and give a sharp blow to drift with a mallet, and the hydraulic pressure produced will ease the bush out.
I always purchased a couple of Leaded Bronze Bush’s from a Bearing supplier 5/8” Bore X 16mm long with an O/D greater than .7886”(20.03mm). On a lathe ream/bore the bore of bush’s to a sliding fit of the shaft for the pump. Then make up a mandrel to hold bush on so you can turn O/D to size.7886"(you will find out if this is same size when you get old one out) to keep bore and O/D concentric

 

[Peanuts]

Come on Brian, only to 4 decimal places, you are slipping in your old age - ha ha

 

[Feneris]

I had to buy a service kit in the end as I hadn't got time to make a new shaft. I did however measure the parts when they turned up. I can list all dimensions if anyone thinks that would be useful, from memory though...

The shaft is 5/8ths on an inch. The woodruff key slot and end slot are 3/16.

The bearings and seals are metric! No, not a typo or measuring error. They've got an imperial shaft running in metric bearings and seals!! Maybe the 0.12mm play between the shaft and bearings helps with cooling / lubrication, seeing as it is salt water lubricated.

The wear between the old shaft and bearings was partly due to wear on the shaft (meant I couldn't just replace the bearings). When I held a steel ruler against the side of the shaft, you could clearly see light between them, where the bearings ran.

Next time...... I'll pay £15 for seals and oilite bushings and £7 for 5/8 stainless bar. Will then use milling slide in my lathe to cut the key and end slot. Saving about 70 quid for and hours work.

PS. I used thre grease method to bang out the end bush and it worked nicely. I use the old shaft as a tool, as it fitted nicely of course. Cheers, F