Anyone local to notts that can do fibreglassing?

Rodg98133

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Unfortunatly i did this to my boat while trying to replace the rotten floorboards

D45BED39-2944-4A68-8964-43E98AA60D94-3016-000002A302B7542F.jpg


And another the same on the opposite side. I have been told the procedure for repair but as i have never touched fibreglass before it is all getting rather confusing. I am after someone to give me a hand. Even if its just to watch over me while i do it. I dont mind getting my hands dirty and will do it myself i just want someone that knows what their doing to watch over me. There will be some beer money in it for someone. I can bring the boat to you to do it or you can come to me. Whatevers easiest. Just need it sorting in the next few weeks.

Thanks alot in advance.
 
How much am i going to be lookig at for someone like that though? The boats only worth £500 so dont really want to be spending more than about £150 on sorting it.
 
Rough 'n ready OK?

Gaffer tape applied to outside, grind 6 inches clean on the inside, paint on polyester resin, drop on chopped strand mat, stipple until no white bits visible, make cup of tea, repeat previous steps (except grinding) after its gone off, remove gaffer tape. Good as new....

I'm in S Derbys BTW

Nick
 
Really?? Everyone else has told me not to use polyester resin as it doesnt stick to anything and to use epoxy resin instead. Theyve also told me if got to do both sides in and out? Where abouts in derby are you mate? Im in long eaton if you know it?
 
Poly'll do fine, epoxy, and I have to say I've never used it, seems pricey and tricky and degrades in sunlight apparently. Until epoxy there was no choice.

Your hull was made from GRP and that's strong, well it was before:p

I know L Eaton, my last grp hull repair was after my trailer punched a fist sized hole through a Dawncraft hull at the Sawley Marina slipway... (entertainment for the spectators!) (I am at Swadlincote)

Buy your resin in a 5 litre tin, there are local suppliers I'm sure, I got mine in Burton from a car paint supplier,

N
 
Polyester will stick but it will not stick anywhere near as well as epoxy. What are you going to use the boat for ? If pooteling along at 4 knots then polyester will be fine but if you plan to go at any speed or give the hull some strain / abuse then epoxy is the better bet by far
 
This myth continues to annoy me, repair it with what it is made of. Prep is the important thing, tempreture, and humidity, whatever you use.
Look on youtube and you will find out it is not difficult, I've been doing it for 40 years and I think that I may have amassed some knowledge.
If you don't feel up to it then get someone to do it for you and watch how they do it. :)
 
This myth continues to annoy me, repair it with what it is made of. Prep is the important thing, tempreture, and humidity, whatever you use.
Look on youtube and you will find out it is not difficult, I've been doing it for 40 years and I think that I may have amassed some knowledge.
If you don't feel up to it then get someone to do it for you and watch how they do it. :)
Are you sure that its a myth?

In the grand scheme of things, the difference in price between epoxy and polyester resin is a minor consideration.

The polyester will stick - your years of experience shows that, but if you want maximum strength the boats builders I have spoken to and all the data that I have read say use epoxy. The epoxy DOES stick better than polyester to old GRP because of the chemistry.

Whichever is used, you still need to get the temperature, humidity and cleanliness etc right.
 
I'd use poly. Epoxy is great but at this time of year you are going to be struggling to get it to cure properly, unless you can get it indoors and heated.
I was baffled by the pic until you pointed out it was a slot you'd cut.
To be honest, I would get someone to do it and watch them, as you have suggested yourself.
I'm a bit surprised that you have managed to cut such a long slot before realising it. Using a grinder with a grinding disc on will still need a light touch to bevel the inside of the layup back to get the mat to lay properly.
At the point in the hull profile there is lots of strength from the chine and other mouldings so the repair you will make will be more to prevent flexing and water coming in.

If you were nearby I'd come and do it, but you're not, so I won't :D
 
Get someone to do one side, then do the other yourself. 50% off the price and I'd use polyester resin. Just make sure there is a good rough and clean surface to lay-up on and you will get a perfectly good physical bond.
 
Like boatbuilder, I can't see this madness for epoxy, yes I've used it, but I've also used polyester and not had a failure. This is basically a filling repair. The hull won't have lost much integrity with that cut.
I also would only grind back the inside. Bevelling the gelcoat and making into a two-sided repair is unnecessary and possibly will create a problem. Better to retain as much gelcoat as possible.
 
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This is pretty much how ive decided to go ahead with it. If i do it that way can i fibreglass from the inside then when thats set use gelcoat filler on the outside to just waterproof it? I really dont fancy taking away and redoing the gelcoat as this is not something i would be comfortable doing.
 
Just a quickie. If i was to do this on my own (or with help) can i do it on the drive? Everyones been talking about humidity and temperature but obviosuly i dot have a garage big enough to fit cesil in. If i do it on the drive can i iust heat it with a hair dryer for 10 mins to make it set?
 
Just a quickie. If i was to do this on my own (or with help) can i do it on the drive? Everyones been talking about humidity and temperature but obviosuly i dot have a garage big enough to fit cesil in. If i do it on the drive can i iust heat it with a hair dryer for 10 mins to make it set?
no... it takes hours to cure.... you could rig a small canopy reaching down to near the ground and stand a heater under it though... mind your H&S though!
 
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