Any hints for tips, compression check on ford 330 sabres

dont think mine has a port to tap in to. I will have a look. I dont recollect one on the turbo outlet pipe. maybe on the manifold before the turbo...
The turbos do pull similar boost figures, just shy of 2 bar, but at different revs.
also one engine pulls nearly 2900 rpm, the other only to 26 if memory is correct. (Only done this very briefly) for similar boost gauge figures the morse controls have about an inch of difference between them from being level

Rob,

Let's get back to basics.

Boost #'s sound positive.

We have had many posts re your motors, can we start again.

Get an optical tach off Ebay or whatever.

Disconnect your Morse controls, now with nice warm engines perform high idle test operating throttle lever by hand, pushing hard against the stop, you will want to see at least 3,100 rpm possibly a little more, 330 rating high idle is in the range 3,100/3,200 rpm, cannot remember what you have.

Repeat process on both engines, no blipping simply hold lever hard against the stop and let engines sing with the governor stable.

Reconnect Morse controls and adjust and MAKE CERTAIN you achieve exactly the same #'s, not just close, exactly the same #'s.

Sea trial and take boost #'s at 200 increments where they come in 1,500 rpm? Up to whatever WOT speed you can now achieve. If you plot you boost numbers you now have a boost curve which hey presto is pretty accurate representation of propeller demand curve.

Let's see the numbers and discuss where we go from there, spec is 27 psi, your 2 bar comment leaves me reasonably confidant that base engines are healthy without any screwing around.

Good luck.
 
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+1 I am sure there is a book that comes with the engines that agrees with the above. The vdo rev counters have a small screw to adjust. situated on the back of them.
 
Great stuff. I will report back.
home from work last night, will be back at the boat soon...
at least now though, i know they can breath and injectors are good, so nothing has been in vain..
 
Hhmmm, my cheap optical tacho is ****.
Have ordered a laser optical, that plugs in to my multimeter, and gives a voltage reading. 1volt per 1000 rpm.
So far, the stbd tach at high idle goes round to the end stop, at 3100, the port side goes to the end stop, and would go further if it could. New tacho here soon so can try and get accurate measurements.
According to my sabre manual, max on load rpm 26/2700 rpm, max high idle 3200rpm

More to follow...
 
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ok here goes.
high idle...
port side 3050 stbd 3100
both governors and morses are doing the same revs, both engines.
the tachos are actually reading pretty accurate, which i was surprised at.

on load, boost pressures....(psi)

rpm---port---stbd
1500--5-------6
1700--9-------9
1900--11-----12
2000--15-----12
2200--19-----15
2400--25-----19
2550--27.5 wot
2600----------21
2750----------26 wot

unusual.......
havent lifted the floors to alter the high idle yet.
i will adjust high idle tomorrow.

expected boost according to book
1800 rpm 17psi
2000 rpm 20psi
2400 rpm 24psi
2600 rpm 27psi
 
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Those readings were taken under load I take it? if so did you balance the outputs with the boost readings or the rev counters, and was there any black smoke being produced from either of them. No good doing it tied up to the berth you need to be out on the water.
 
these things smoke going over the hump. As soon as clear and onto the plain then smoke clears.... and its black..
Also, they dont show boost unless under load.
this time i drove it by equal rpm per engine to get the boost readings. but thats a thought as to tomorrow, go as normal via boost, and right down corresponding rpm as and when the engines reach it independently. but, as you can see there is a significant difference in the figures, aven taking in to account one engine working harder than the other, compared to the sabre figures.
 
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Rob,

Excuse me for being dumb, have you done high idle test with Morse control completely disconnected.

Do NOT mess with adjustment screw, high idle setting is part of base pump calibration, governor droop will be all to heck if screwed around with.
 
yes, I have. figures were the same.
theres a hatch under the helm seat i can get through to reach cable to disconnect, and then manually operate governor.

Surely you need to disconnect the cable at the pump and do high idle, otherwise you haven't verified that your getting full the pump wide open?

Isn't that LS1's point, to verify that the control system is fully opening the taps?
 
Surely you need to disconnect the cable at the pump and do high idle, otherwise you haven't verified that your getting full the pump wide open?

Isn't that LS1's point, to verify that the control system is fully opening the taps?

Yes I have. Figures were the same,
There's a hatch under the helm seat I can reach through to disconnect
:D
Unless I missed something and being thick again :)
 
boost--port stbd (rpm)
5psi---1580 1560
7.5----1660 1700
10-----1760 1720
12.5---1820 1820
15-----2000 2020
17.5---2180 2275
20-----2256 2370
22.5---2350 2500
25-----2400 2600
27.5---2550 2755 both wot

book figures for comparison...
1800 rpm 17psi
2000 rpm 20psi
2400 rpm 24psi
2600 rpm 27psi
 
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boost--port stbd (rpm)
5psi---1580 1560
7.5----1660 1700
10-----1760 1720
12.5---1820 1820
15-----2000 2020
17.5---2180 2275
20-----2256 2370
22.5---2350 2500
25-----2400 2600
27.5---2550 2755 both wot

book figures for comparison...
1800 rpm 17psi
2000 rpm 20psi
2400 rpm 24psi
2600 rpm 27psi

Book will probably assume a pretty linear (definitely a generic) propeller curve ... real life is seldom like this, but looks like you're getting max boost at least ...now you can also map the measured boost pressure to book propeller load (HP outtake), and you'll have your own actual prop load curve ... all you then need to do is to map RPM with speed and you'll have a pretty accurate fuel consumption to speed calculation spreadsheet for your boat .... not that that was the target of course... :)
 
do you think we can draw any conclusions from the differences, between port/starboard, and the book figures..
this time last year also saw about 6 knots more speed wot... hull cleaned/af three months ago..
 
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Yes I have. Figures were the same,
There's a hatch under the helm seat I can reach through to disconnect
:D
Unless I missed something and being thick again :)

Reading this again .... think what LS and BB are referring to is your hatch where you're disconnecting ... if this is disconnecting your leavers, but still is a separate cable to the governor, then there is a possibility that you do not get full WO on the pump.... I cannot see that you can do this dis-connect for both engines through one hatch, unless there is a cable to the pump arm..., so we're back to LS's question ... Pictures of the setup ... if you have would be great !
 
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