Antifouling!

I'm surprised the yard are recommending not to pressure wash the hull.
Surely they can give it a light wash at a lower pressure just to get the worst of the fouling off?
+1, a light powerwash while she's on the hard is a no brainer, imho.
The existing a/f doesn't seem to work very well anyhow, so there's not a lot to loose if some of it would flake off, I reckon.
 
If it was me, I'd be pleased about the lack of fouling on the sterngear but not so pleased about the hull fouling. You would expect some hull fouling in areas exposed to sunlight but the fouling under the hull is a bit disappointing

FWIW, since I started boating in the Med I have always used whatever AF paint the locals recommend (without even knowing what it is sometimes) and have never experienced serious hull fouling. Of course sterngear fouling is a very different matter

I'm surprised the yard are recommending not to pressure wash the hull. Surely they can give it a light wash at a lower pressure just to get the worst of the fouling off?

I largely agree Mike. However, instead of taking the yard's recommendation (which is likely to be a hard A/F), I still think soft / eroding is the way to go. Despite ours being a planing hull you can only see the white underneath on the chines.

I'll see if they can do three coats of Micron 99 next time (as per JFM recommendation) as two coats of Micron 350 doesn't seem to be working for me.

As you say, the stern gear and even the props are looking pretty good (Velox).
 
I largely agree Mike. However, instead of taking the yard's recommendation (which is likely to be a hard A/F),
Not necessarily. When I had my boat in Palma, the yard recommended a Spanish self polishing antifoul paint made by Titan Yate. I'm not 100% sure but I think it was this stuff https://www.titanlux.es/en/productos/producto/self-polishing-universal-antifouling-high-speed-for-high-speed-boats. Anyway it worked excellently in what is a high fouling area, so well that I used to go 2 seasons between re-paints

All I'm saying is that the locals tend to know best what works in their cruising area
 
Drives now re-painted....

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Are those a set of yard fender socks , proper ones temporary removed to keep clean ?
Looks like it’s been jet washed on the hull sides below the WL and from the white patches a serious amount of AF has gone too .
Why’s the anodes being done now as opposed to its annual Easter time ?
I realise anodic wear is not related to the period the Earth takes to orbit the sun , just seems strange to do it 3 months ish later.
While the painted legs look pretty it’s only the props that matter cleaning wise and as said i,am struggling to understand the state of the hull AF ??
Then those gear cables ( on another thread ) would be a higher priority in terms of preventive treatment to save a actuator failure .

Ideally you need plan (cheap lifts or otherwise taken into account ) to just to boat on one lift and AF / anode / hull wax job pre season .
+ @ said lift out any other work as when it needed eg seacocks , TTH fittings etc in your case some drive work on gear selector cable renewal.

You are gonna end up firefighting and chasing you tail with unplanned maintenance.

Sorry P I just say it as I see it .
 
Are those a set of yard fender socks , proper ones temporary removed to keep clean ?
Looks like it’s been jet washed on the hull sides below the WL and from the white patches a serious amount of AF has gone too .
Why’s the anodes being done now as opposed to its annual Easter time ?
I realise anodic wear is not related to the period the Earth takes to orbit the sun , just seems strange to do it 3 months ish later.
While the painted legs look pretty it’s only the props that matter cleaning wise and as said i,am struggling to understand the state of the hull AF ??
Then those gear cables ( on another thread ) would be a higher priority in terms of preventive treatment to save a actuator failure .

Ideally you need plan (cheap lifts or otherwise taken into account ) to just to boat on one lift and AF / anode / hull wax job pre season .
+ @ said lift out any other work as when it needed eg seacocks , TTH fittings etc in your case some drive work on gear selector cable renewal.

You are gonna end up firefighting and chasing you tail with unplanned maintenance.

Sorry P I just say it as I see it .

Porto, they're my rubbish fender socks. Never got round to replacing them (shocking I know - particular for someone who sells the things)! I'm trying to increase my range and will be putting new ones on to test them when I have found a new supplier.

Ever since we bought the boat, our annual maintenance has been out of kilter (last work was done in Sept 2018). So the work now is to see us through to the Spring where we can get into a pre-season cycle as you suggest (anodes wouldn't have lasted 18 months without this lift).

I agree, looks like they've given the hull a light wash, which is OK.

Have you spotted something missing in one of the pics?
 
Looks like it’s been jet washed on the hull sides below the WL and from the white patches a serious amount of AF has gone too
Indeed. I sort of regret having supported Deleted User suggestion to lightly powerwash the hull.
Even if it's obviously harder to tell from some pics rather than seeing the hull in flesh, I would have never expected a light powerwash to remove that much a/f.
Unless they can't handle a LIGHT powerwash (but it ain't rocket science...), their suggestion to refresh the old a/f actually made sense.
I'm afraid you will now experience a pretty fast hull growth in the next weeks, with the warm summer water...
Hindsight is a great thing, of course.

PS: is the boat already back in the water? If not, I'd rather put at least one hand of fresh a/f on the hull.
 
Indeed. I sort of regret having supported Deleted User suggestion to lightly powerwash the hull.
Even if it's obviously harder to tell from some pics rather than seeing the hull in flesh, I would have never expected a light powerwash to remove that much a/f.
Unless they can't handle a LIGHT powerwash (but it ain't rocket science...), their suggestion to refresh the old a/f actually made sense.
I'm afraid you will now experience a pretty fast hull growth in the next weeks, with the warm summer water...
Hindsight is a great thing, of course.

PS: is the boat already back in the water? If not, I'd rather put at least one hand of fresh a/f on the hull.

It's back in the water now. We'll see how it goes, worse case will be another quick lift for a scrub. Going for contrasting colours for each layer does appear to be a useful wear indicator though!
 
Indeed. I sort of regret having supported Deleted User suggestion to lightly powerwash the hull.
Even if it's obviously harder to tell from some pics rather than seeing the hull in flesh, I would have never expected a light powerwash to remove that much a/f.
.
I must be blind because I can't see that;)
 
Porto, they're my rubbish fender socks. Never got round to replacing them (shocking I know - particular for someone who sells the things)!
As somebody who bought a set of your fender socks, I'm astounded to hear that:p

Incidentally they have survived into what I think is their 4th season now. They're looking a bit worn but no tears yet AFAIK
 
I suspect that eagle eyed MapisM is referring to the white mottled effect on the port side in photo number 1.

That doesnt look like its been done with a pressure washer, more like been scraped with a pallet knife to get the fouling off in order to avoid pressure washing. Anyway IMHO, any antifoul paint that can't withstand a mid season pressure wash is pretty useless;)
 
Interesting Pete, if all goes well, I am looking to get a Princess 45 lifted and AF'd in September, not too impressed with the images of your T34 using M350, which is what I was going to use this time, having been very happy indeed with M77.

So, I may now push for M99. I suppose in your case it could be because only 2c may have been applied, instead of 3. Mmmmm not sure what to do, give M350 a go with 3c or go with M99.

That said some AF work better in different locations, so maybe M350 used in SCM works the best for the fouling in that area? Not entirely sure if that's the case or not, I may decide to go with M350 for comparison as I had previously used M77 several times and definitely managed two seasons on my F43.
 
John, I got Ross to antifoul ours last year and he got some from the local fisherman's cooperative which you will know. Not sure what it was, but the locals swear by it.

I have some pictures of a lift and scrub we had done last week and was mightily impressed with how little growth there was... Mostly a "light dusting" around the water line.

Hope all goes well with the purchase, and if you need Ross's number pm me.
 
1) Is your cruising fast (planing) or slow (displacement)? planing 24-27 kn
2) Where is your boat kept? Spanish med
3) How many hours a year do you use the boat? 100 mainly summer season
4) What A/F do you currently use on the hull (hard/soft/make/type)? Micron 350
5) What A/F do you use on your outdrives / stern gear? Trilux 33
6) Are you in intending to change to another brand / type? something more effective on the sterndrives maybe?
7) Have you had any bad experiences with other brands? Since I bought the boat Micron 350 flawless on the hull 2 years now. TK on the sterndrive first time ok. Then Velox fell off. Now Trilux 33, has fallen off partly from props but this summer no fouling due to frequent usage I think
8) What maintenance regime do you have for the A/F (scrubs/coating frequency)? Yearly paint on hull. Yearly painting sterndrives. Repainting props once
 
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