Vamoose
Well-Known Member
Whos tried what, and what (if anything) worked for you ?
Anti Fouling Propellers (or not ?)
- Thread starter Vamoose
- Start date
SABREMAN
Active Member
After trying various odd ones such as lanolin, which didn't work too well in my case, last year I gave the prop a very good clean and polish to a near mirror finish. Try not to rub the prop away of course. Then I applied several coats of OWATROL over the winter to build up a decent thickness and at the end of the season after seven months in the water----NO fouling at all. This year it will be a quick surface clean, rubdown with fine paper and recoat with the Owatrol again, job done.
jamesmcd
New Member
What type of Prop is it? If it's bronze don't use copper based paints as they can cause a lot of damage!!
alec
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
After trying various odd ones such as lanolin, which didn't work too well in my case, last year I gave the prop a very good clean and polish to a near mirror finish. Try not to rub the prop away of course. Then I applied several coats of OWATROL over the winter to build up a decent thickness and at the end of the season after seven months in the water----NO fouling at all. This year it will be a quick surface clean, rubdown with fine paper and recoat with the Owatrol again, job done.
[/ QUOTE ]
Hey that's a new one ! I've got some of that stuff - It'll be on by the weekend !
After trying various odd ones such as lanolin, which didn't work too well in my case, last year I gave the prop a very good clean and polish to a near mirror finish. Try not to rub the prop away of course. Then I applied several coats of OWATROL over the winter to build up a decent thickness and at the end of the season after seven months in the water----NO fouling at all. This year it will be a quick surface clean, rubdown with fine paper and recoat with the Owatrol again, job done.
[/ QUOTE ]
Hey that's a new one ! I've got some of that stuff - It'll be on by the weekend !
gavin_lacey
Well-Known Member
Fouling conditions seem to be very localised. Up until a few years ago many in Lowestoft just polished their props and had no real problems. Then one year these many of the props had no drive at all by the end of the season, resembling football sized white brillo pads. One prop was joined to the P bracket so that the engine stalled when a gear was engaged. A tube worm was responsible, presumably imported from elsewhere. International trilux worked there for me and continues to do so provided the recommeded priming sequence is followed. You may get better advice by asking locally than from a forum whose membership will inevitably have different fouling conditions from yourself.
achwilan
Well-Known Member
yes, I tried it (on a J-prop): it works
geoffatstanpit
Well-Known Member
Would that be the Owatrol oil, paint condidtioner and rust inhibitor, the Owatrol polytrol fibreglass renovator and metal protector or the Polytrol wood cleaner and brightener?
Leighb
Well-Known Member
Could you kindly clarify what the proper priming for Trilux should be?
I used it on my prop last year, but it was all falling off by the end of the season, although adhesion on the boottop was fine.
What primer is recommended?
I used it on my prop last year, but it was all falling off by the end of the season, although adhesion on the boottop was fine.
What primer is recommended?
cnh
Well-Known Member
My Trilux had all worn off the prop as well, but I didn't really mind, since the prop was clean, and it saves me having to remove the old paint!
VicS
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
the proper priming for Trilux
[/ QUOTE ] The International Yachtpaint website http://www.yachtpaint.com/uk/ Will give access to the product data sheets but interestingly there is no mention of preparation or priming of bronze or brass propellers
the proper priming for Trilux
[/ QUOTE ] The International Yachtpaint website http://www.yachtpaint.com/uk/ Will give access to the product data sheets but interestingly there is no mention of preparation or priming of bronze or brass propellers
AIDY
Well-Known Member
I always used nothing and painted trilux straight on. this year i've given it a few coats of primocon first.
Leighb
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
the proper priming for Trilux
[/ QUOTE ] The International Yachtpaint website http://www.yachtpaint.com/uk/ Will give access to the product data sheets but interestingly there is no mention of preparation or priming of bronze or brass propellers
[/ QUOTE ]
That is why I asked the question, I could find nothing specific on the website, I sent a technical query and had no reply, so used Primocon as I thought it would be suitable, but it all peeled off in patches. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Somewhere I heard mention of a self etching primer, but thought one only used these on Aluminium?
I might just use the Seajet that I use on the rest of the hull this year.
[ QUOTE ]
the proper priming for Trilux
[/ QUOTE ] The International Yachtpaint website http://www.yachtpaint.com/uk/ Will give access to the product data sheets but interestingly there is no mention of preparation or priming of bronze or brass propellers
[/ QUOTE ]
That is why I asked the question, I could find nothing specific on the website, I sent a technical query and had no reply, so used Primocon as I thought it would be suitable, but it all peeled off in patches. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Somewhere I heard mention of a self etching primer, but thought one only used these on Aluminium?
I might just use the Seajet that I use on the rest of the hull this year.
AIDY
Well-Known Member
I've too only used international etch primer on an aluminium prop....
I've been pondering the merit's over an epoxy primer before painting trilux on the prop. may experiment next year.... Too late for me this year /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I've been pondering the merit's over an epoxy primer before painting trilux on the prop. may experiment next year.... Too late for me this year /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Vamoose
Well-Known Member
The Trilux Prop-o-Drev product data sheet says :-
"Preparation Prime bare metal and factory enamelled surfaces with 2 coats of VC Prop-O-Drev Primer. This is essential on aluminium and alloy as Trilux Prop-O-Drev is NOT suitable for direct application. For best results on previously antifouled surfaces, remove existing paintwork. Alternatively, abrade with wet 240 grade paper. "
I used it last year (on a new prop) and followed the application instructions to the letter, and it still fouled after quite a short period.
Considering the price of this stuff I am questioning wether its worth doing anything at all and reverting to what I have always done in the past, ie polish it at the start of the season then jumping over the side periodically (I put a wet suit on these days) and mask and giving it a scrub.. So thats why I am interested to know of other peoples experiences..
Has anyone got any experience (Good or Bad) of the Lanolin based stuff ?
"Preparation Prime bare metal and factory enamelled surfaces with 2 coats of VC Prop-O-Drev Primer. This is essential on aluminium and alloy as Trilux Prop-O-Drev is NOT suitable for direct application. For best results on previously antifouled surfaces, remove existing paintwork. Alternatively, abrade with wet 240 grade paper. "
I used it last year (on a new prop) and followed the application instructions to the letter, and it still fouled after quite a short period.
Considering the price of this stuff I am questioning wether its worth doing anything at all and reverting to what I have always done in the past, ie polish it at the start of the season then jumping over the side periodically (I put a wet suit on these days) and mask and giving it a scrub.. So thats why I am interested to know of other peoples experiences..
Has anyone got any experience (Good or Bad) of the Lanolin based stuff ?
castaway
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
What type of Prop is it? If it's bronze don't use copper based paints as they can cause a lot of damage!!
[/ QUOTE ]
I this a fact ? Given that bronze is an alloy of Copper and Tin and a few other things I assume, why should copper a/f have a detrimental effect.
I have heard that yachtsmen in the US have their props copperplated.
In fact maybe I'll try that anyone know where I can some copper sulphate... Cu SO4
I have tried all the usual methods...several layers of hard a/f..polishing... and lanoline. None were really any good so I will prob stick with the hard boot top paint..
Hav'nt yet tried that black stuff that can be used to polish up old stoves ..possibly some sort of lead ..
Regds Nick
What type of Prop is it? If it's bronze don't use copper based paints as they can cause a lot of damage!!
[/ QUOTE ]
I this a fact ? Given that bronze is an alloy of Copper and Tin and a few other things I assume, why should copper a/f have a detrimental effect.
I have heard that yachtsmen in the US have their props copperplated.
In fact maybe I'll try that anyone know where I can some copper sulphate... Cu SO4
I have tried all the usual methods...several layers of hard a/f..polishing... and lanoline. None were really any good so I will prob stick with the hard boot top paint..
Hav'nt yet tried that black stuff that can be used to polish up old stoves ..possibly some sort of lead ..
Regds Nick
Refueler
Well-Known Member
I find odd trips across sand banks scours any growth of the prop !! That's if prop is driving ! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
My prop goes FW / SW and all sorts and stays clean but dull.
My prop goes FW / SW and all sorts and stays clean but dull.
Pasarell
Well-Known Member
Props are difficult to antifoul for 2 reasons. Firstly the forces from vortexes forming at the tips of the blades are considerable and will rip most coatings off fairly quickly. This is why you often see painted props with the hub nicely painted and the paint gradually disappearing as you move along the blades.
Secondly the metal the prop is made from varies considerably. I'm not a metallurgist but proper bronze should be OK with a cuprous oxide based antifouling but brass and aluminium props would be badly affected. Copper thiocyanate, the main active ingredient in most antifoulings sold as suitable for props will be less damaging but probably still need a primer on aluminium.
Aidy says he has primed with Primocon and others have mentioned epoxy. Neither are likely to be able to stick for long and multiple coats may be worse than 1. I would also be concerned about the effect on efficiency of the prop from these relatively high build coatings.
I generally haven't had much of a problem on uncoated props and accepted the small drop in power by the end of the season but this year I applied Propshield which is lanolin based. I think there was a small improvement but that could easily be from natural variations in fouling intensity.
The best solution I've seen has been with silicon elastomer coatings. These are completely non toxic and work through low surface energy of the coating. They tend to stick well if properly primed and applied but even here a high fouling intensity will overwhelm them.
Secondly the metal the prop is made from varies considerably. I'm not a metallurgist but proper bronze should be OK with a cuprous oxide based antifouling but brass and aluminium props would be badly affected. Copper thiocyanate, the main active ingredient in most antifoulings sold as suitable for props will be less damaging but probably still need a primer on aluminium.
Aidy says he has primed with Primocon and others have mentioned epoxy. Neither are likely to be able to stick for long and multiple coats may be worse than 1. I would also be concerned about the effect on efficiency of the prop from these relatively high build coatings.
I generally haven't had much of a problem on uncoated props and accepted the small drop in power by the end of the season but this year I applied Propshield which is lanolin based. I think there was a small improvement but that could easily be from natural variations in fouling intensity.
The best solution I've seen has been with silicon elastomer coatings. These are completely non toxic and work through low surface energy of the coating. They tend to stick well if properly primed and applied but even here a high fouling intensity will overwhelm them.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
You will be very fortunate to find a propeller nowadays that is actually made from bronze, i.e. any alloy of copper and tin. They are called bronze but this is basically a con by the alloy manufacturer. They are virtually all made from brass with small additions of other metals, such as iron, manganese, tin, aluminium at about 1-2%.
Putting copper based paints on a brass or bronze propeller cannot possibly do any harm. It's no different from copper pipe in brass fittings, something that is done hundreds of times every day.
The black stuff used for stoves is largely graphite. Despite being a non-metal graphite conducts electricity and has its place in the galvanic table. It will almost certainly cause pitting of a propeller.
Putting copper based paints on a brass or bronze propeller cannot possibly do any harm. It's no different from copper pipe in brass fittings, something that is done hundreds of times every day.
The black stuff used for stoves is largely graphite. Despite being a non-metal graphite conducts electricity and has its place in the galvanic table. It will almost certainly cause pitting of a propeller.
