Antares 760 windshield frame removal

[Alfonso 760]

Hi everyone,

I recently bought 1998 Antares 760. I am second owner and looking into a few project to bring her up to the standard.

I am wondering if anyone has experience with removing aluminum frames from the wheelhouse windshield. I have seal leak which is causing aluminium pitting.

Please see attached pictures. Appreciate your advice!

 

[Plum]

Hi everyone,

I recently bought 1998 Antares 760. I am second owner and looking into a few project to bring her up to the standard.

I am wondering if anyone has experience with removing aluminum frames from the wheelhouse windshield. I have seal leak which is causing aluminium pitting.

Please see attached pictures. Appreciate your advice!

I have the same pitting/corrosion of the internal aluminium frame but no leaks so in my case I beleive it is due to condensation dampness. I coated the corroded areas with a car cavity/underbody wax and the corrosion has not got any worse for the last 10 years. The bonding of those frames, inside and out, to the glass, and the bonding of the glass to the grp, forms part of the structure that holds the wheelhouse roof in place so any attempt to unbound with heat will mean a complete structural bonding rebuild. Other than heat, not sure how you would remove the aluminium frames.

There are a lot of Antares 760 posts in this forum to help you with your projects, particularly this thread Thread 'Antares 760 thread' Antares 760 thread

 

[Alfonso 760]

Thank you Plum! That's very useful info. Removing the frames doesn't sound like an option, might try your technique with the car underbody wax!

Br

 

[Pleinmont]

Thank you Plum! That's very useful info. Removing the frames doesn't sound like an option, might try your technique with the car underbody wax!

Br

Agree with Plum - it would be an unholy nightmare to remove the glass and frames from a 760 - hopefully I never have to do this.

To be honest if you stop the water coming in from the outside and also coat the inners when fully dry you'll arrest any noticeable corrosion in future.
The window frames on my 760 were similar to yours when I bought it due to the external seals letting in a bit of water which then fuzzed up the alu on the inside. I've not noticed any corrosion on the outside which is good.

I fixed the leaks by cleaning the exterior glass/frame join and running a bead of clear CT1 sealant/adhesive all round. Keep it neat with masking tape as only needs to be a couple mm wide.
That immediately stopped any water getting in and then I just wiped down the internal frames to get rid of the powder. They haven't corroded any further since.

I pull off the CT1 and re-bead every couple years as it perishes in the sun - I was a bit surprised as it's supposed to last for years but it's only an hour's job. Maybe it's because the bead is so thin on the glass (CT1 is great stuff normally).
Something like Sika might last longer but I wanted it to be invisible - might try another brand of clear sealant next time (Gorilla or Everbuild)...

 

[Plum]

Agree with Plum - it would be an unholy nightmare to remove the glass and frames from a 760 - hopefully I never have to do this.

To be honest if you stop the water coming in from the outside and also coat the inners when fully dry you'll arrest any noticeable corrosion in future.
The window frames on my 760 were similar to yours when I bought it due to the external seals letting in a bit of water which then fuzzed up the alu on the inside. I've not noticed any corrosion on the outside which is good.

I fixed the leaks by cleaning the exterior glass/frame join and running a bead of clear CT1 sealant/adhesive all round. Keep it neat with masking tape as only needs to be a couple mm wide.
That immediately stopped any water getting in and then I just wiped down the internal frames to get rid of the powder. They haven't corroded any further since.

I pull off the CT1 and re-bead every couple years as it perishes in the sun - I was a bit surprised as it's supposed to last for years but it's only an hour's job. Maybe it's because the bead is so thin on the glass (CT1 is great stuff normally).
Something like Sika might last longer but I wanted it to be invisible - might try another brand of clear sealant next time (Gorilla or Everbuild)...

I fitted new acrylic glazing in my forehatch and wheelhouse roof hatches 9 years ago and sealed the channel between the acrylic and the aluminium with black Dow Corning 791 silicone weatherproof sealant (from Screwfix), recommended by the sealant manufacturer. The exposed sealant is still in perfect condition and no leaks.

 

[Pleinmont]

Thanks for the recommendation Plum, I'll have another look at the join area next time I'm on the boat...
I might be quite amenable to a thin black bead around the edge vs clear if it lasts a very long time

 

[jakew009]

it would be an unholy nightmare to remove the glass and frames from a 760

if they went in they'll come out

 

[Pleinmont]

if they went in they'll come out

haha, yes, the demolition is always the easy part but I'd also like them to go back in too