Anodising

Kelpie

Well-Known Member
Joined
15 May 2005
Messages
7,766
Location
Afloat
Visit site
I've removed the mast collar from my deck, it's a bit tired looking and I was wondering if it would be practical to send it away somewhere to get re anodised? Would I have to get it blasted first? Alternative is to paint it but I know that painting alu is a bit of a pain.
 
Certainly possible, but probably depends on where you live. There are 4 anodisers within 30 minutes of where I live in Poole.

However, if it were mine I would have it blasted then powder coated which gives an even coating over irregular shapes with exposed edges like that. You may find the same firms offer a range of finishes as well as anodising so you can ask their advice.
 
I don't see why location matters much- it would almost fit in a shoebox.
Powder coating could work as well, open to suggestions.
 
Interesting take on Caledonian geography?

There is a company called "Highland Colour Coaters" that do a fine range of 200 colours. It's run by a weel kent colonial who'll flog you an anchor at the drop of £200+.

oh yes good shout. If it's as good as his galvanizing I'll be a happy man.
 
Someone mention me?
Actually I would not recommend powdercoating (despite doing this a lot - about 75 tonnes a week).
Powdercoating is paint, just applied a bit differently - without the liquid carrier of the pigment and polymer. It's applied electrostatically. But that doesn't make it super paint, or high corrosion protection paint.
It is a little harder, and therefore a little more durable that liquid carried paints, ad thatt's an advantage.
But ALL paints are porous. (quote from a scientist at the Paint Research Association).

Aluminium is best protected by the oxides that form on the surface. (similar to how stainless is protected). Anodizing enhances and forms an artificially induced oxide layer, sometimes coloured for aesthetics. It's probably the best corrosion protection for aluminium.
Shotblasting (as someone suggested, will remove whatever oxide layer exists, leaving clean unoxidized aluminium. If that's then powdercoated (or painted) over the shotblasting will give a good "key" for the polymer coating, but any damage to that coating will expose aluminium in its most vulnerable state.
We often get customers requesting "powdercoating" on steel, and we decline that work. If they argue that they should be allowed to dictate what coating they get, we agree, but say that we don't want to share the disaster that will follow, but surely someone will do it for you. While on that topic of powdercoating, that term does not define the coating, but the application method. People often ask for "powdercoating" thinking this is the coating. We have to ask - did you want polyester, epoxy, polyurethane, nylon, acylic... etc. Specifying the coating you want as "powdercoating" is as explicit as saying I want my item brush coated, or roller coated.

But a multi-coat system would be next best, say a chromate pretreatment, then epoxy powdercoating followed by polyester powdercoating. (no shotblasting). If chromate isn't available, perhaps manganese phosphate, but don't let anyone near it if they don't use a good chemical pretreatment before applying the polymer.
 
For a cheap and cheerful but durable solution (provided it is black) can I recommend bitumen paint, dries thick, hard and shiny black, sticks like sh!t. This is based on using it on parts of our Baby Belle (cement mixer) about ten years ago, subject to plenty of abuse and and still in place despite the other orange bits changing to rust. It will need a bit of time to dry thoroughly.

Late edit; for anyone trying this I recommend painting a similar bit of similar metal first to make sure you are happy, once done it will never be easily undone.
 
Last edited:
Top