Anchoring

[oldbilbo]

Apropos some thots on anchoring under sail.... here's an account of what worked for 'us' when needed. It cannot be considered a 'rule' or that the procedure would be effective elsewhere, on another occasion.

Two of us found we had to beat into Port Ellen, in a Rival 34 with a dead engine-gearbox ( no prop thrust ), in the dead of night and in a rising NW 'blaw'. We were well tired, and we didn't have a large scale chart of the port. Instead, we had to rely on BA2168 Approaches to the Sound of Jura 1/75000 and the diagram and text in Reed's. I was aware that there were HIDB moorings somewhere, but we saw none of them.

We found our way in past the Carraig Fhada light and tacked up towards the cottages at the NW corner of the bay. When we had about 5m. water, we rolled away the rest of the genoa, and broad reached back and forwards across the wind at about 3 knots, using a well-reefed mainsail, until I was confident that the bottom was 'regular'. We'd laid out about 40m. of chain on deck, and the CQR was ready to slip..... which we duly did.

When we reckoned the hook had reached the bottom and chain was being 'laid out', the helm was put half-over and we steered a steady and continuous turn downwind. The ( mini ) main gybed across under control just as the anchor bit quite hard, pulling her firmly around 'head-to-wind' and stopped.

We spent a fair while monitoring our 'lie', knowing we had plenty of room under our lee should we need to try again. We were, however, quite secure in flat water - and the raised beach just upwind sheltered us from what blew through during the night.

In the morning, we used a quiet breeze and the early flood to sail our anchor out ( Hobson's choice ) and continued on towards Oban....

 

[JumbleDuck]

Your take on easy to follow instructions please. Can we assume we have the right anchor , the right amount of chain, the right conditions, including holding and the right depth, etc? Just give me your take on what to do, in simple steps. I have my own system, I just want to know what yours is.

Go in under sail if possible, downwind, but not too fast. As I pass the point where I want the anchor, boot it over with 3x current depth of chain. Anchor digs on, boat swings round and ends head to wind. Sails down. Increase chain to 3x maximum depth expected. Put kettle on.

Under power it's the same, more or less, but going into neutral just before the anchor goes down.

 

[TQA]

I have been living on the hook for 13 years using genuine CQRs because that what the boats came with.

I drop the hook lay out the chain attach snubber and back down on it gently to begin with then work up to 2/3s throttle. Most times that works. But So what to do when it doesnt?

Well I was told I should let it marinade for a while; 10 to 20 minutes usually works. Now why well I don't really know but my SWAG [Scientific Wild Assed Guess] is that the weighted tip works its down into the sand a little. However my slightly fey sailing partner had a much better answer, she said that squads of small blue kilted creatures roamed the anchorages, if they found a genuine Scottish CQR they would start digging it in but would ignore a copy.

What ever happens happens and there is a good chance it will grip now if you back up. Mind you if you are one of the unwary and try to anchor on that plate of coral covered in 3 inches of sand in front of the The Gingerbread you will never get a grip. Old Bequia hands know it well.

 

[GHA]

Similar to many above with a slightly different method of setting due to low powered engine. On a 10t steel boat singlehanded with a rocna.


Pick spot, lower anchor until it reaches the bottom (wireless windlass controller)
Very gently let the wind/tide push the boat backwards occasionally snubbing just a little to keep the bow pointing towards the anchor.
At a shortish scope quickly pay out about 20' and full reverse to get a little way on, chain grab on the chain to samson post.
When the boat bangs to a stop with stationary transits you know the anchor is set and the holding good, let out a bit more scope and kettle on, anchor ball up as it's boiling.

 

[Delfin]

Or you could do what an entire italian charter fleet just did near us...

1,Arrive at full speed
2, check water depth(5m)
3. Drop 10m chain in a heap on top of the anchor
4 immedietely get in tender wearing bright orange speedoes
5 get out of tender, then wade out until water is a thigh hieght and get out you mobile phone and make loud phone calls.

Their boats are still there , so there must be something to it, as they say I talians do it better, maybe we should learn from them?

Bright orange Speed-os? How unprofessional.

Our approach:

1. Observe what rode the boats around your desired spot are using.
2. Drop hook, while edging in the same direction of current wind/tide.
3. Lay out 3:1, secure and go about your business for 30 minutes or so. (I like soft set; anchors will perform better if given the chance)
4. After 30 minutes, reverse to tug a bit and ensure the hook isn't going anywhere.
5. If stable, lay out another 30' on a snub line and don the bright red Speed-o.

Since our hook is 176#, I'm not as enthusiastic about the mad reverse at max rpm since it isn't really needed to get the hook set.

 

[john_morris_uk]

An interesting omission, in all the suggested methodology for anchoring under power, is using plenty of power to dig the anchor in.
I use 2600-3000 rpm in reverse.
If people care to look @
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1602177#post1602177
this thread (which is fact-based instead of opinion), you'll discover that many people omit this step and, nearly always, their anchors are badly set (yea some are Italians).

Of course when you come to anchoring under sail an entirely new set of parameters have to be considered. Unfortunately most would be bu**ered if they had to do that.

I sail by myself, have no electric anchor winch and anchor about 200 times a season.

I am trying to work out if you are tongue in cheek when you mention 2,600-3000 rpm in astern...? Nothing like drudging the anchor back on full power to plough some furrows in the bottom?

Once I have anchored firmly I motor slowly up to the anchor and then set the 'anchor alarm' using the length of the scope of cable as the radius limit and then let the boat fall back. This way the alarm does not go off when there is a change in wind direction as I would still be within the 'safe' circle...unless the anchor drags.

That's a clever idea. I've just got to get round to doing the maths of what the swing radius of my scope in metres vs the decimal parts of latitude (i.e. nautical miles) is to make that system work. Bit trickier under sail?

So what are the parameters for anchoring under sail alone?

My thoughts exactly. According to some of the theories here no-one can ever anchor under sail!

Traditionally one dropped the anchor (making sure you don't put a pile of chain on top of the thing as you pay it out.) Thgen you let the boat settle and check the transits etc to see if its ok. Then if it starts to blow you go and check the transits again. I confess that we often give the anchor a gentle nudge in astern if we've anchored under power to check its set, but all this talk of full power seems a bit OTT to me. Of course if I was anchoring to prepare for a hurricane (which I admit that I have done for real) the full astern malarky might be applicable. However 99% of the time we can anchor under sail and not put any astern on at all by motor and I can't remember the last time we dragged.

 

[charles_reed]

So what are the parameters for anchoring under sail alone?

Two methods - backing the main after drifting down wind, to set the anchor. or what Don Street used to refer to as the "flying bahamian moor".

Old Bilbo has given one suggestion, using main alone - great in relatively empty UK anchorages, but not really feasible in more crowded Med moorings. I come downwind under genoa alone, either let fly the sheets, or roll it away, @ about 4-5 knots. Lash the tiller (turn the 4000ST to standby) and go forward, drop the anchor and snub it round the anchor cleat, gradually bringing the boat to a stop. Make fast and wait until she's head-to-wind and then put on the Wichard chain link and between 3-6 m of textile rode. Usually find the boat has stopped in 3-4 boat lengths, which in 10m of water gives a 5:1 scope.
With the CQR, on sand, I find it's just started to set and probably isn't completely level, unless you're on mud in which case you're lucky to be able to see the shank. The Delta is not quite as good, but usually used as an aft anchor for tying bows-to at quays, so is well and truly dragged in on >10:1 scope.

One problem - you've had your chance and will have to find out the hard way whether or not your anchor is firmly set!!

 

[Victoria Sponge]

Thanks very much for all the hints and tips. The exact details of the procedure will depend on many factors. For example some of the harbours we go into require an anchor and lines ashore. This means you don't have time to faff about, so perfecting your technique for this type of anchoring is useful, especially if there are other boats following you in. I try not to do stress, so having a very clear plan is helpful.

 

[charles_reed]

Yes John Morris - 2600-3000 rpm and with an Autoprop which is as efficient in reverse as forward. With a CQR you come to a stop and the boat fishtails. If you don't you re-anchor.
No need to do any ploughing as you probably only do that for 65".

PS max revs in forward 3600, so it's about 60-80% of full power.

 

[charles_reed]

Thanks very much for all the hints and tips. The exact details of the procedure will depend on many factors. For example some of the harbours we go into require an anchor and lines ashore. This means you don't have time to faff about, so perfecting your technique for this type of anchoring is useful, especially if there are other boats following you in. I try not to do stress, so having a very clear plan is helpful.

I'd suggest having a clear and well-practised plan is essential, especially when single handed. Then at least 2 contingency plans...
Baltic mooring is another thing...
But then I'd assumed you were in the Med.

 

[sailaboutvic]

I do love all these comment about anchoring under sail , last time I did it was when I use to teach , and that a while back now , I only seen it done once since then and that a long time ago . It sound to me Victoria that by asking these question you not very experiences in anchoring , ( I not have a go here just an observation ) so I wouldn't worry about anchoring under sail , get use to anchoring first .
Personal unless I have to I wouldn't anchor under sail unless I had to you never know when it go tits up by the sound of the example given here ever one found a empty anchor , per-fit bottom and just the right winds , a lot of the times that isn't the case .
The only advise I will give is , if your not happy with the way you have anchor do it again and again and again if you have too , too many people get embarrassed of people looking at them and give in , hoping that the wind isn't going to blow or the anchor will set on it own , big mistake .
One last thing Charles mention rev , ( here something to remember , if the engine drag the anchor then the wind for sure pull it out . )
www.bluewatersailorcroatia.webs.com

 

[JumbleDuck]

Personal unless I have to I wouldn't anchor under sail unless I had to you never know when it go tits up by the sound of the example given here ever one found a empty anchor , per-fit bottom and just the right winds , a lot of the times that isn't the case .

If it doesn't work you just go round and do it again, same as picking up a mooring under sail. No biggie.

There is a scary thread on newbie anchoring on the MB forum at the moment, where they seem to be engaged in a who-uses-the-most-chain bidding war. Last time I looked it was 7x depth but I expect it has gone up by now. Mind you, seeing the anchors MB manufacturers fit (stainless teaspoons) that may not be so daft.

 

[ghostlymoron]

Very interesting info on anchoring with sail only. As a RYA trained sailor, I'd assumed that you dropped anchor whilst travelling backwards and sailing backwards is difficult to say the least. Now that it's been described I can see that its quite possible to drop anchor from the bow whilst sailing forwards. I've resolved on my new boat to do more sailing manoeuvrings and less relying on the engine so this fits with my new ethos.

 

[Trop Cher]

One thing that I like to do and I don't think has be mentioned, is to have a delay between laying out the anchor and digging in with the engine. Once I've laid out the chain, I'll sometimes wait five minutes before I'll engaging reverse to dig it in, this allows everything time to settle in and the anchor to start digging in.

 

[Giblets]

One thing that I like to do and I don't think has be mentioned, is to have a delay between laying out the anchor and digging in with the engine. Once I've laid out the chain, I'll sometimes wait five minutes before I'll engaging reverse to dig it in, this allows everything time to settle in and the anchor to start digging in.

My tactics as well. Sometimes after 15 minutes or so I don't even bother digging in if all is good and holding. How many of us carry out the "use engine to dig in" procedure when the tide turns and the anchor re-sets in the middle of the night?

 

[Neil]

My tactics as well. Sometimes after 15 minutes or so I don't even bother digging in if all is good and holding. How many of us carry out the "use engine to dig in" procedure when the tide turns and the anchor re-sets in the middle of the night?

This is very true. I had a difficult time in Youghal harbour, with a strong wind going one way and a very strong current going the other. I needed to pick a spot that was between moorings, where I could let out enough scope to hold when the tide was high, and yet not so big to swing round into to other moored boats when the tide turned. It didn't help that depending on the mooring and the windage of the boat, the other boats where all lying in different directions. When I first set the anchor, the rode was lying in a sternwards direction. I had about 4 attempts before I was satisfied (only reasonably!). I watched until the tide turned and the wind slackened. All seemed well, though I had to trust that I'd still hold when the tide was high at 2:00 am..........

In any event, it did work and there was no digging in on engine. Can it happen that you dig it in so deep that it fails to reset on the turn?

 

[vyv_cox]

How many of us carry out the "use engine to dig in" procedure when the tide turns and the anchor re-sets in the middle of the night?

It seems to be the case mostly that once a decent anchor is set well it remains set even when the wind/tide direction changes. There are some known exceptions, usually in combination with certain types of bottom, but otherwise it seems to hold true. This is a Manson Supreme, set in a S-SW 4-5, wind veering to N 7 during the day.

 

[Storyline]

A couple of weeks ago we anchored in a fresh s/e. The wind was forecast to increase and veer to the n/w. All the boats in the anchorage were lying (and I presumed anchored) to the s/e so we laid our anchor in the same direction. However I was concerned that it may break out before resetting if I buried it too deep so deliberately did not apply too many revs. As it turned out the 'soon' in the forecast did not materialise so I never found out if it was the correct course of action.

So, anyone any ideas if this was the correct thing to do ?

 

[alahol2]

Very interesting info on anchoring with sail only. As a RYA trained sailor, I'd assumed that you dropped anchor whilst travelling backwards and sailing backwards is difficult to say the least. Now that it's been described I can see that its quite possible to drop anchor from the bow whilst sailing forwards. I've resolved on my new boat to do more sailing manoeuvrings and less relying on the engine so this fits with my new ethos.

I wouldn't want to put you off anchoring under sail but be aware that if you snub an anchor whilst sailing over it the chain is likely to come up hard against the topsides around the bow. Do it at too high a speed and you may well end up with scrapes and scratches.

Agree with others to let the anchor 'stew' for 10 mins or more before testing/setting with the engine.

 

[Storyline]

Best done under Spinnaker for the very best results as this gives the equivalent of 2500-3000 rpm that you would have had if motoring.
It does lead to a fairly snappy rounding up as the anchor bites but with a fully battened main and lazy jacks, the main will come down a treat and the spinnaker will be nicely parked against the mast so no chance of sailing over it. It also adds a bit more stern thrust as it is backwinded so you get plenty of extra bite on the anchor.
Hope that helps

I find a cruising shute SO much easier to control in such confined spaces.