Anchoring advice

tjbrace

tjbrace

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I haven't anchored much in all the years I have had a boat, when I have done it has usually dragged. However, I intend to try again with this 'new to me' boat. What I would like to ask is wher do I secure the cable when the anchor is down? The chain/rope cable comes up from the anchor well, over the windlass gypsy (electric Gioit), and down over the bow roller. Should I rely on the gypsy to secure the cable or should I, somehow, secure the cable to either of the cleats set into the aluminium toerail.
 
You should use the cleats as the gypsy is not designed to take the snatch loads that come if the wind or swell picks up.

For anything longer than a quick stop for lunch I will always take the load on a nylon snubber rope attached to a cleat, the loose chain is then also cleated, should the snubber break.

I've lived aboard for a year and have anchored probably 70%-80% of the time. Holding is a combination of good anchor, enough chain, heavy enough chain, choosing a good spot, digging the anchor in well and some luck with the weather and swell.
 
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when I have done it has usually dragged. However, I intend to try again

[/ QUOTE ] When you have arrived at the spot where you want the anchor to be and the boat has stopped lower the anchor to the bottom then as the boat drifts back with wind or tide pay out the cable until you have the correct length out for the water depth. Make it fast then gently motor backwards, very gently at first until all the slack in the cable has been taken up then gradually increase the power to dig the anchor in. Finally with with a fair bit of power on, not all 1 million horse power, but enough to test that the anchor is holding, check with the aid of some suitable transits that the anchor is truly holding. If it is that's it but check the transits from time to time and be sure to pay out more cable if the tide is rising.

Sometimes its necessary to start all over but usually the technique works first time. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Chucking the anchor off the bow immediately followed by miles of chain and rope is almost guaranteed not to work /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
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For anything longer than a quick stop for lunch I will always take the load on a nylon snubber rope attached to a cleat, the loose chain is then also cleated, should the snubber break.


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Your chandler will sell you a chain hook. Splice this on to a short section of rope.
 
In addition to the good advice from VicS: --
It is important that any cleat you secure the anchor rode to is significantly more strongly bolted than your windlass, or there is not much point in using it.
If in any doubt, or in a serious blow, you can hitch a spare jib-sheet to the anchor cable and run it aft through a Genoa sheet car to a sheet winch: a good back-up at any time!
It is also vitally important the run of the rope from the bow roller to its secure fixture does not bear on anything that might chafe it as it stretches and relaxes with gusts or swell.
 
Most windlass' are bolted down properly. The main problem is that the innards are not designed to snub, but to haul.
Some have a moulded cleat on top which is OK, but a nice bit of stretchy rope (mine is about 20feet) with a loop on a strong cleat and a hook to a hanging loop of chain takes all the chug out of a frisky anchorage and lets the anchor rest soundly.
 
To add to Vic's comments about dragging the most common cause is insufficent scope. At least 3x depth should be the amount of cable (chain or chain and rope) actually in the water. Last summer I watched a fellow club member drag his anchor 3 times in a couple of hours during a lunchstop. It was clear from where I was watching that he probably had less than 2xdepth of chain actually in the water. It's an easy error to make especially in very shallow water where the length of cable between the deck cleat or whatever and the waterline can easily be a couple of metres, so what you thought was 3x depth in 3m of water is really only just more than 2x depth.
 
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I haven't anchored much in all the years I have had a boat, when I have done it has usually dragged.

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Ditto until my trip across the Med. in 2007. Having been shown how to anchor, and set the anchor, (a la VicS), the only time my anchor dragged was in the dense weed at Pto. Andraitx in Majorca. I also couldnt get a grip of the bottom in the weed at Illetas. After those two experiences, I only anchored in sand or mud, and didnt drag, even in the 28kt winds in Syracusa, when the chain was bar tight.

It's the reversing to dig it in which does the trick, (and gives you the confidence that it is dug in). At anchor for a few weeks in any particular place, you could tell those who "knew" what they were doing.... they reversed on the anchor each evening before the sun went down, and had a comfortable nights sleep.

If Rogue doesnt sell, I'm either going to have a Manson Supreme anchor flown out to Malta, or we might pick up a Rocna on Lefkas during our spring/summer trip to the Ionian. The word is that either of these anchors will dig through weeds and grip the bottom.

Cheers,

Richard
 
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test that the anchor is holding, check with the aid of some suitable transits that the anchor is truly holding. If it is that's it but check the transits from time to time ...

[/ QUOTE ]bearing in mind that the transits will change slightly as you take off the power astern, and the rode 'relaxes'.

I also like to take the position off the GPS, write it on a Post It note and stick it in a prominent place as a quick reference point, for the time at anchor.
 
If I can't see a suitable transit, I zoom in on the gps, and also watch the SOG. When it stays at zero for a while I know I'm stopped. The course also tends to be all over the place, so I also know I'm not going backwards /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Another tip is to be about and observe when either the tide turns or the wind changes. In other words, when the boat swings around in a large tide its worth being there as this may turn the anchor on the sea bed and cause you to drag. Just watch out for the turn. When ever im asleep while at anchor i always pop out for a look when this happens! So far its paid off and worked well...... But, maybe im too paranoid as i never sleep well while at anchor.
 
For other than calm weather lunch time anchoring when the gypsy will take the load, get yourself a chain hook - in every chandler's - and connect the hook with a stout line (12mm+) to a forward cleat. I have a short line of correct length all set up for this purpose with a loop in the end to drop over the cleat.

When the hook is in place, back off the gypsy to let the chain hang free.

Rarely is a gypsy installed with sufficient bedding to absorb the shock load of the chain when set.

You also get the advantage of a quieter anchor - since the hook absorbs some of the rumble from then chain moving to the tide.

Slipped anchor? Almost always due to insufficient chain being set. Powering back on the dropped anchor always improves the hold by digging in the blade.

PWG
 
I've been having a few problems with weed in the Med Richard. And in my experience our Fortress cuts through the weed best of all. Glad to hear you're planning some sailing this year.
 
If you cannot make it fast to a central bow mooring point like a samson post or large cleat, then I would suggest a rope bridle. Do not just pass rope through link and then each end to side cleats - that is sure to have rope chafe in the link and also rope size will be small. Best is to set a clove-hitch round a link tightly and then each rope end to cleats. Let slack a touch so weight comes on rope. You can then have chain stay on gyspy without worry. In event of rope giving way - gypsy will probably hold enough for you to sort.
 
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