Anchor Windlass switch problem, Jeanneau SO 37 identification of the main switch.

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seumask

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We have a Intermittent fault on our Anchor Windlass . The symptoms are that the anchor hand controller intermittently does not switch on at the hand controller and checking the supply of power to the windlass at the front shows no Voltage at the windlass controller box located next to the Windlass under the deck. I think it relates to the main on off switch that is located above the engine on the panel top right. Resetting this switch seems to cure the problem and I am wondering what the switch actually is and what to replace it with, guessing that it can handle fairly large Amps going by the size of the cables.
Any answers greatly appreciated

Anchor Switch 3.jpgAnchor Switch 1.jpg
 

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Thats what I thought at first unscrewing the bracket to take a close look at it to find the label! The metal that looks like a bracket seems to be integral to the switch and many small screws to take it appart , so I thought posting about it first would be a better idea than filling the bilge with electrical bits. :-)
 
Windlass's normally have a thermal cutout, designed to trip quite slowly, so the windlass doesn't trip every time you stall it.
My guess is that it's a combined switch and thermal fuse, usually rated at around 200 amps, for perhaps about 5 seconds (that's a guess).
Does it trip in operation, ie when you are raising the anchor. Or when it's idle?
If it's the former then I'd start by looking elsewhere in the system, electric motor, gear box, bearings etc, or how you are using the windlass, perhaps to break a well set anchor out.
If it's the latter, then it's more likely to be the switch. It shouldn't trip if it's not under load.
My boat has a Lewmar switch/thermal cutout.
Hidden down the side of the bunk in the forward cabin.

I've tried to paste a link to the Lewmar version but can't get it to work.
 
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seumask said:
Thats what I thought at first unscrewing the bracket to take a close look at it to find the label! The metal that looks like a bracket seems to be integral to the switch and many small screws to take it appart , so I thought posting about it first would be a better idea than filling the bilge with electrical bits. :)
Click to expand...
What's the windlass make, model, voltage and current ?
 
Ian_Edwards said:
Windlass's normally have a thermal cutout, designed to trip quite slowly, so the windlass doesn't trip every time you stall it.
My guess is that it's a combined switch and thermal fuse, usually rated at around 200 amps, for perhaps about 5 seconds (that's a guess).
Does it trip in operation, ie when you are raising the anchor. Or when it's idle?
If it's the former then I'd start by looking elsewhere in the system, electric motor, gear box, bearings etc, or how you are using the windlass, perhaps to break a well set anchor out.
If it's the latter, then it's more likely to be the switch. It shouldn't trip if it's not under load.
My boat has a Lewmar switch/thermal cutout.
Hidden down the side of the bunk in the forward cabin.

I've tried to paste a link to the Lewmar version but can't get it to work.
Click to expand...
Good questions. The system only seems to not energize from from idle. On the hand controller you have to first switch the controller on, then you can lift the anchor up or down. It stays ready of action for about 20 seconds if you dont use it, otherwise you then have to turn it on again. Its starting the windlass from not being used that is the problem. It's the hand controller that wont energize, and I have been carefully over the wiring of the controller and the master box contolling the windlass below deck and there are no apparent wiring problems there.
 
PaulRainbow said:
What's the windlass make, model, voltage and current ?
Click to expand...
It is a bracket and will come off. Looks like a high current MCB? Every thing else as Paul says. You need to identify the switch/ breaker otherwise we can only guess. You may have to replace with a suitable circuit breaker. I am certain Paul can advise on that.
 
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seumask said:
OK. , Thanks all more googling makes it look like a MCB. I found the previous thread that helped, and I see some of your comments on there.
Windlass Circuit Breakers
Click to expand...
Without reading through the 2022 post you found. Because it fails in idle, after a few seconds, I sounds like time out problem, not an overload problem.
Our windlass doesn't time out, but our Lewmar bow thruster does after about 5min.
The problem could be in the latch which holds the switch on, which could be failing, due to old age/use/misuse.
Or there could be an external timer.
My money would be on the timer suffering from old age, and I'd start by replacing the MCB.
If you could be more specific about the model, then Lofrans, or a chandlers or a forum member may be able to identify the spare.
An obvious comment, you need to get the correct rating, too small and it'll trip all the time, too big and it may damage the motor.
If that doesn't work, back to the drawing board.
 
Ian_Edwards said:
Without reading through the 2022 post you found. Because it fails in idle, after a few seconds, I sounds like time out problem, not an overload problem.
Our windlass doesn't time out, but our Lewmar bow thruster does after about 5min.
The problem could be in the latch which holds the switch on, which could be failing, due to old age/use/misuse.
Or there could be an external timer.
Click to expand...
Never seen a timer on a windlass Ian.
Ian_Edwards said:
My money would be on the timer suffering from old age, and I'd start by replacing the MCB.
Click to expand...
Should be a thermal breaker.
Ian_Edwards said:
If you could be more specific about the model, then Lofrans, or a chandlers or a forum member may be able to identify the spare.
An obvious comment, you need to get the correct rating, too small and it'll trip all the time, too big and it may damage the motor.
If that doesn't work, back to the drawing board.
Click to expand...
Couldn't agree more. (y)
 
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PaulRainbow said:
Typical of so many recent threads on here, scant information and despite asking specific questions, OP doesn't bother to answer them.

Frustrating.
Click to expand...
I'm sorry I did not respond to all the questions asked as I don't have the information to hand to answer all questions asked in the kind reply's to the case I'm trying to solve.
I am very grateful for the time and effort that all the kind people have put in in replying and posting on this thread. I'm hopping to get more details when I visit the boat again this weekend. and I have preemptively ordered the Circuit Breaker recommended by Blackwood, thank you.
With regards to the " Timer question" The hand controller remains active for approximately 20 seconds if no buttons are pressed. This is I understand a standard feature of this type of Hand controller.
When the windlass is working under load it seems to be working fine and no grumbles able to take heavy loads etc. So I think this is an electrical gremlin I am chasing!
 
Lofrans circuit breakers are available from 40A to 150A, you need the correct one for your windlass. To small and it will constantly trip, too big and it wont trip in a fault situation, potentially damaging the windlass motor, overheating the wiring or causing a fire.
 
For what it's worth, in the thread he mentions, I ended up using an Osculati 100A thermal breaker. In the end I couldn't get hold of the Lofrans magnetic one. I've not had any problems with it, but you need a fault to know for sure.. :D

Is the hand controller powered from the same breaker?
 
Thankyou all once again. I Can confirm that the windlass is the Lofrans Arion that Wobbley kindly posted a link for the manual in post #17. Copy downloaded
Sorry to report I did not have time to do any further investigation on the problem as we were sailing and no anchoring this weekend, and I had no time to work on this issue.
 
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