Anchor locker issue

[Cheeky Girl]

Hi
Looking for some help.
In the anchor locker there is always some water in the bottom of it as the base is slightly below the level of the locker drains. 5mm
This is then i think causing damp in the locker in the forward cabin locker.

I want to build up the level of the bottom of the locker so that no water is left in.

What is the best/easiest way to do this.

Thanks

 

[zoidberg]

It occurs there are several ways. Whatever is put in there needs to be impervious, of course.

One could mix up some epoxy resin-with-slow-hardener and pour in, with clear 'oles/pathways to the drains. Not the cheapest...
One could go around to a nearby PVC windows/doors installer and cadge some foam planks offcuts, which could be cut to shape and fitted using a straightforward poly/mastic from a builders' merchant. Probably the cheapest....

 

[Poignard]

Hi
Looking for some help.
In the anchor locker there is always some water in the bottom of it as the base is slightly below the level of the locker drains. 5mm
This is then i think causing damp in the locker in the forward cabin locker.

I want to build up the level of the bottom of the locker so that no water is left in.

What is the best/easiest way to do this.

Thanks

How about a self-leveling flooring compound?

 

[Refueler]

OOOP'S ...... didn't see the 5mm bit !!!

Anyway - I've left the post in case anyone wants to fill in a box or empty space !!

I would grab a can or two of expanding foam as used by builders for doors / windows etc.

Line the locker with plastic sheet as a barrier and then do small layers of it, let each expand before doing next till you reach just below level you need. Let it cure to its final expansion ...
Take a thin plywood sheet and cut to fit - allowing a final thin foam layer to be applied first than the plywood placed on top and weighted to keep in place level.

That way - its literally no weight at all ... its sealed and has plastic barrier - if you ever want to remove .. and you have it set to work with your drains.
The plywood obviously painted / given preservative coat ... and protects the foam from the chain etc.

Some one will now say the foam is not waterproof ... wrong ... it is - but it just becomes a shi**y brown in colour !!

 

[pvb]

As it's only 5mm deep, I'd use resin with microballoons. Try to get a slight fall towards the drain hole.

 

[awol]

Enlarge the drain holes?

 

[RJJ]

I would consider using some form of epoxy/filler mix. You want it to be runny so one idea could be to use slow-curing resin and really warm it up before use.

Then assuming it will self-level to a reasonable degree, how about stashing some heavy gear on the pulpit / in the forepeak/ emptying the cockpit lockers? Bet if you really try you can sink the bow by a few degrees.

 

[Refueler]

I would consider using some form of epoxy/filler mix. You want it to be runny so one idea could be to use slow-curing resin and really warm it up before use.

Then assuming it will self-level to a reasonable degree, how about stashing some heavy gear on the pulpit / in the forepeak/ emptying the cockpit lockers? Bet if you really try you can sink the bow by a few degrees.

Laminating resin is thin and would self level fine even with micro-balloons ...

 

[Lodesman77]

Not sure why you 'd want it level. When I had to fix a problem with a leak from the bottom of the anchor locker I rebuilt it with thickened epoxy so it didn't self level but has a slight slope down to the drain hole

 

[RJJ]

Not sure why you 'd want it level. When I had to fix a problem with a leak from the bottom of the anchor locker I rebuilt it with thickened epoxy so it didn't self level but has a slight slope down to the drain hole

... that's what I was getting at with making the boat go bows-down while pouring the resin layer.

 

[RJJ]

Laminating resin is thin and would self level fine even with micro-balloons ...

...and microballoons would keep it lighter.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

Close up the original hole and drill a new one lower down. Don't forget to seal the sides of the hole to prevent water ingress into the laminate.

 

[pvb]

Close up the original hole and drill a new one lower down. Don't forget to seal the sides of the hole to prevent water ingress into the laminate.

Surely that's much more work than just adding 5mm of resin on the floor?

 

[Refueler]

Surely that's much more work than just adding 5mm of resin on the floor?

Or take a thin sheet of ply and then resin that in ...

 

[Neeves]

Next time you are on the hard have the boat yard 'store' the yacht such that when you fill the necessary space the fall of the surface of the filler is toward the existing drain holes. I would aim for a pronounced fall for the new locker base so that it is dry - no chance of shallow puddles at all. Any water left in the locker will accelerate corrosion. I'd also make a grate for the floor of the new locker so that the chain can drain and be aired. If you use rope in your rode try to coil the rope and let it hang from a hook - chain sitting on damp rope is another recipe for corroding chain.

I have a friend who did as I am suggesting.

Using foam is not a good idea unless it is closed cell foam as it will inevitably get wet and simply store water.

Jonathan

Here s some light reading for you:

Know how: Ground Tackle

 

[awol]

I still think opening the drain holes downwards by 5mm is the simplest solution. A downside of all the solutions is that once the trough has gone rusty streaks will appear from the drainholes.

 

[Deleted member 36384]

I still think opening the drain holes downwards by 5mm is the simplest solution. A downside of all the solutions is that once the trough has gone rusty streaks will appear from the drainholes.

I think this the easiest solution, except I would look at drilling a round hole that took out the 5 mm gap but on the same centre line as the current hole. That would make the hole a bit larger but a stainless cowling over the outside could be a good idea. On my own boat, I have about a 10mm drain hole and it blocks with mud and weed quite often, so bigger is better in my mind. Larger OD may also allow better airflow, for natural drying. The stainless cowlings are very common and could give a neat finish to the outside.

 

[Neeves]

I think this the easiest solution, except I would look at drilling a round hole that took out the 5 mm gap but on the same centre line as the current hole. That would make the hole a bit larger but a stainless cowling over the outside could be a good idea. On my own boat, I have about a 10mm drain hole and it blocks with mud and weed quite often, so bigger is better in my mind. Larger OD may also allow better airflow, for natural drying. The stainless cowlings are very common and could give a neat finish to the outside.

Not knowing at the time I asked, here, what they are called, the drain cover 'Clam shell vent cover' - if you are using Google.

Jonathan

 

[Cheeky Girl]

Thanks for all your suggestions.

I am going to the boat this weekend and will have a look.

I had already decided to incorporate a fitting to secure the warp to the side of the locker to save it lying under the chain.
I do like the idea of a grate in the locker to hold the chain to allow drainage and better ventilation.

There are already Clam shell vent covers fitted so not sure if enlarging the drain holes would work.

 

[RJJ]

JVL Rondo Rubber Ring Heavy Duty... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JPCUTUU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I was able to cut two triangles to fit the floor of my anchor locker. The only boat job I have ever done that was light cheap quick and easy!