Anchor Connector Splits?

A

ancientsailor

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www.sailskills.co.uk
Does a connector (SS swivel or straight galvanised) split down the centre line?

I know this seems a silly question – but none of the local chandlers stock one and I’m miles away from a boat to look at – so I’m reduced to looking at pictures on the internet.

Looking at the few websites that have dimensions, I can probably get one on my (oversize) anchor provided I can split the connector. The alternative is to force the anchor through the jaws. The difference in width of the jaw and the anchor (once I’ve cleaned it properly) will be a fraction of a millimetre.

If I buy a connector large enough to fit the anchor comfortably, it won’t fit through the roller! D’oh!

Continuing to lift the shackle over the jaws of the roller (where it jams) is no longer an option! <span style="color:blue"> </span>
 
There may be such a thing, but normal connectors have to be of the right (adequate) size . Mechanical failures are not unknown and I much prefer a shackle. I think I would be thinking of changing anchors.
 
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<span style="color:blue"> Continuing to lift the shackle over the jaws of the roller (where it jams) is no longer an option! </span>

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Try This:

FixaHylas2.jpg
 
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Does a connector (SS swivel or straight galvanised) split down the centre line?

[/ QUOTE ]Yes, the more recent and best-quality Kong does. Here is the photo. Basically you construct it around the chain and anchor, holding the parts together in your hand, then put the single allen screw in to hold it together (with loctite on the thread)

IMG_8836_small.jpg


What you are looking at above is a four-part connector held together by one allen screw.

The swivel bearing is very large unlike most connectors that swivel on a screw or even a rivet. The key measurement for you is the width of the jaws and I don't have that to hand as I am in the UK at the moment. I can't see the dimensions on the Kong website but there are images of the two styles they do:-

The first is the image of the one above, a swivel, but assembled.

swivel_link.jpg


The connector below is a fixed link. You remove the screw to fit to the anchor then put the screw back in. Should fit alright but there is no swivel.

fixed_link.jpg
 
You would normally find this at the bottom of your shrouds, between bottleneck and chainplate.

Wonder about using SS & Steel together though; watch the corrosion.
 
Thanks for the responses and the debate. Please keep it coming! The photos are especially helpful!
I did see the article about connectors shearing – I thought it only related to the swivel type? The central rivet would shear.
The Kong type would fit (I did find the dimensions) and does look sturdy. However the technical spec does warn against lateral forces.
However, I do have concerns about SS when used with galvanised. Where I have seen SS shackles fitted to anchors and chain, the SS remains bright – but the chain (especially) seems to corrode very quickly
 
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The Kong type would fit (I did find the dimensions) and does look sturdy. However the technical spec does warn against lateral forces.

[/ QUOTE ]Lateral forces are an issue with all connectors (other than the type posted by hylas). Kong seem to be the only people to address the issue and they rate the swivel for 10mm chain for a lateral force of 2000kg. That is a massive, huge, force! It is of the same order of magnitude you'd expect in the main direction of pull and would bend the anchor before breaking. I would not use a shackle - just look at the sharp edge of an anchor attachment hole and consider it resting like a knife-blade on the shackle pin.

Go with hylas's solution if you can get the bits and if it will roll up your bow roller. I couldn't so I have the Kong.
 
The best connectors, e.g. Kong and some others, were stronger than any shackles tested, even though these were a size larger than the connectors. Most windlass manufacturers recommend the use of a swivel as rotation of the anchor, which occurs when it is being hoisted through the water, can cause the chain to jam in the gypsy.

One way around the lateral forces issue with a swivel is to put a short piece of chain, for example two or three links, between it and the anchor. It is usually possible to use a size larger for this.

Corrosion is not a major issue. The galvanising on perhaps the first one or two chain links may gradually disappear: when rust becomes an issue simply cut them off. The steel of the chain will not corrode to any significant extent.
 
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One way around the lateral forces issue with a swivel is to put a short piece of chain, for example two or three links, between it and the anchor.

[/ QUOTE ]How do you connect those two or three links to the anchor?
 
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I use a Wichard 17/4PH shackle with a countersunk Allen screw attachment to the anchor. The connector fits to the chain.

[/ QUOTE ]Will that go through a narrow bow roller, as that's often the problem and main reason for using some form of special connector?
 
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The steel of the chain will not corrode to any significant extent.

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I disagree very strongly. I have seen with my own eyes how steel chain can corrode in contact with stainless shackles. Okay, it was on an anchor that was used almost daily, but the corrosion was remarkable and the stainless shackle was intact.

Agree that it's only the first one or two links that'll go, so you could just keep an eye on it and lob off little bits of chain as necessary. Personally I wouldn't use SS shackle on an other all-steel system. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
 
That one is a Plastimo-like cheap connector. See the photo above, in my earlier post, for a picture of the Kong swivel which is rated for 2000kg lateral force. Kong seem to take the view (perfectly correctly) that if the usage results in lateral force then you need to make the connector strong enough to bear the load. That is perfectly good engineering.
 
<<< I disagree very strongly >>

OK, I can't disagree with your disagreement. I can only say that this has not been my experience.
This photo
P1000173.jpg
shows my previous swivel and chain arrangement. It had been in service for many years, used frequently. The chain is generally a bit rusty but no more so adjacent to the swivel. Stowed on the bow roller this is only as expected, as it remains dry for much of the time. If the anchor is stowed in the locker where it remains wet I accept that galvanic corrosion may occur more rapidly. However, I am surprised by your statement and suggest that something unusual was happening.
 
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I disagree very strongly. I have seen with my own eyes how steel chain can corrode in contact with stainless shackles. Okay, it was on an anchor that was used almost daily, but the corrosion was remarkable and the stainless shackle was intact.

[/ QUOTE ]

I disagree very strongly. I have seen with my own eyes, many times, how steel chain can live in contact with stainless shackles. Okay, some were on anchors that were used daily, but the corrosion was un-remarkable and the stainless shackle was intact. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif True.
 
<< Will that go through a narrow bow roller, as that's often the problem and main reason for using some form of special connector? >>



When my original swivel failed I bought a Kong and fitted it. I found that it was possible for the connector to jam against the anchor stock if the pull came from the reverse direction, although axial to the anchor. This in addition to the lateral pull problem, described on the Kong packaging.

I have the same problem as you - the bow roller is quite narrow. However, I found that the Wichard allen shackle in 10 mm is quite narrow and easily fits between the roller cheeks. This photo
Allenshackle.jpg
shows the bow version but the D shape is a lot narrower. However, it is still possible to jam the shackle against the anchor stock, forming a very unfair angle that results in bending across the swivel. So my latest arrangement is a 10 mm shackle, three links of 10 mm galv chain, Kong swivel, 8 mm anchor chain. I have yet to install this, back to the boat in a couple of weeks, so cannot yet comment on its effectiveness.

Incidentally, I have found the Kong securing screw to loosen in service. Am taking thread lock back for both that and the shackle Allen screw.
 
It will be interesting to hear how it goes together. Mine is all in place now, and sprayed to reduce any possible galvanic problems due to stainless and galvanised.

Interesting about the screw. I was trying to get a nylon washer to fit under the head but it wasn't possible in Almerimar. If you can bite down on a washer I think that will hold it in place nicely - need a fairly thick one, though, 0.5mm or so. I have a used a screwlock compound - I couldn't get Loctite and bought a Ceys product. We had this discussion before - the question is whether these screw locking compounds work after lengthy submersion. There are also corrosion and galling issues, of course. Kong suggest that you grease and lock the thread (!?) but they don't suggest a suitable product.

This might sound like trivia to some, but these things can be vital - the anchor connector coming apart in use isn't trivial, for sure!
 
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