Anchor Chain Marking

[pmagowan]

Thanks for the answers. We have a big anchor at 50Kg and am concerned that the tie-wraps will suffer going through the gypsy. Yes paint wears, the problem is the chain has been marked in feet (ex american.... no comment). So paint seems the way to go. Are there better or worse codes i.e. red,red red,red red red, white, white white, white white white etc..

I would not use that code. With wear you won't be able to tell red red from red red red etc. It is better that every adjacent colour is different. That way even with wear you know you are at the red red because it followed a single red, white and a blue. I do 10m intervals because it is easier and less confusing. I can judge a 5m I.e. Half way between two marks. The spray paint lasts well enough that you can still make it out after 5 seasons but it would be best renewing it every season.

 

[thinwater]

W need to remember that winch designs vary.

If I put cloth, leather, or cable tie markers on mine, not only does it cut them off, but there is also a significant chance of the marker jamming in the spring loaded chain stripper and breaking something very expensive. I've bent parts and had a jammed chain. Nothing but paint will ever go on my chain, for this reason. I wish I could use something more durable, but I cannot.

Also, the notion that I would run my hand over the chain in the dark and feel for markers is appalling to me. Good way to loose a finger, or at least not worth the risk. I don't get that close to a windlass in the dark. I got the edge of a glove caught once when a wave threw me off balance, a VERY close call.

So while I'm certain leather and ties work for many folks, it would be extremely poor seamanship to use them on a winch that can jam on them, no matter how traditional. Just sayin'.

 

[Jeva]

To remove paint on a chain ready to galvanizing just drag it behind your can for about 5 km down a dirt road

Love It- Twice around the M25 on a Monday morning would solve a lot of problems

 

[NormanS]

W need to remember that winch designs vary.

If I put cloth, leather, or cable tie markers on mine, not only does it cut them off, but there is also a significant chance of the marker jamming in the spring loaded chain stripper and breaking something very expensive. I've bent parts and had a jammed chain. Nothing but paint will ever go on my chain, for this reason. I wish I could use something more durable, but I cannot.

Also, the notion that I would run my hand over the chain in the dark and feel for markers is appalling to me. Good way to loose a finger, or at least not worth the risk. I don't get that close to a windlass in the dark. I got the edge of a glove caught once when a wave threw me off balance, a VERY close call.

So while I'm certain leather and ties work for many folks, it would be extremely poor seamanship to use them on a winch that can jam on them, no matter how traditional. Just sayin'.

Talking of poor seamanship, Why on earth would you feel for markers in the dark? I expect that would be about as sensible as looking at paint marks in the dark. Either get a head torch or a deck-working light.

 

[thinwater]

Talking of poor seamanship, Why on earth would you feel for markers in the dark? I expect that would be about as sensible as looking at paint marks in the dark. Either get a head torch or a deck-working light.

Hey, I'm just sayin' I've heard it suggested, in writing, in "authoritative" books. Along with other anchoring-related methods I bet they never actually tried.

 

[Lon nan Gruagach]

Thanks for the answers. We have a big anchor at 50Kg and am concerned that the tie-wraps will suffer going through the gypsy. Yes paint wears, the problem is the chain has been marked in feet (ex american.... no comment). So paint seems the way to go. Are there better or worse codes i.e. red,red red,red red red, white, white white, white white white etc..

There most certainly are better codes, several in fact.
Resistor colour code:
0 black
1 brown
2 red
3 orange
4 yellow
5 green
6 blue
7 violet
8 grey
9 white

telephone code
base digit: blue, orange, green, brown, slate
next digit white, red, black, yellow, violet

plenty more where that came from

 

[superheat6k]

1 black paint mark at each 5m, and 2 at each 10m

35m is three double marks then a single - its not that complicated !

 

[Kelpie]

I get on just fine with bits of string every 10m, with the appropriate number of knots tied in.
Most of the time you just let it all out anyway.
Or at least up here where there's plenty of space

 

[alan_d]

Are there better or worse codes i.e. red,red red,red red red, white, white white, white white white etc..

Anything that has the necessary number of different values and which you will be able to remember. I have heard of someone using the snooker-ball values, while I use the colours of the rainbow, omitting orange ('cos I didn't have the paint) and substituting black for indigo. So red yellow green blue black, then red&black before the chain-rope splice. (I mark every 10 metres.)

 

[thinwater]

And for those of you that have power-down windlasses, it should be obvious that you don't need to mark the chain.

M/s x seconds = rode out.

 

[Robin]

And for those of you that have power-down windlasses, it should be obvious that you don't need to mark the chain.

M/s x seconds = rode out.

Where please does the m/second data come from, actual trustable figure, not brochure claim, that is?

 

[thinwater]

Where please does the m/second data come from, actual trustable figure, not brochure claim, that is?

Is that an actual question?

 

[NormanS]

And for those of you that have power-down windlasses, it should be obvious that you don't need to mark the chain.

M/s x seconds = rode out.

I find that gravity is perfectly capable of pushing my anchor down through the water. Why would I want to "power down"?

 

[Lon nan Gruagach]

I find that gravity is perfectly capable of pushing my anchor down through the water. Why would I want to "power down"?

When the anchor weighs less than the solid gold chain.
Or, more likely, when you want to anchor without leaving the cockpit/fly bridge/bed.

 

[Robin]

Is that an actual question?

Yes!

 

[Robin]

When the anchor weighs less than the solid gold chain.
Or, more likely, when you want to anchor without leaving the cockpit/fly bridge/bed.

+1 We have always powered the anchor down, with no real load on the windlass means it is quick and more precise than a 'dump it all quick' method and can be controlled to land on a carefully selected clear spot. We have used this method now on 3 sailboats and one motor yacht over 20 years. On our current (SAIL)boat the windlass is controlled either on the foredeck from foot switches or back at the wheel from a pedestal mounted up/down toggleswitch

 

[NormanS]

+1 We have always powered the anchor down, with no real load on the windlass means it is quick and more precise than a 'dump it all quick' method and can be controlled to land on a carefully selected clear spot. We have used this method now on 3 sailboats and one motor yacht over 20 years. On our current (SAIL)boat the windlass is controlled either on the foredeck from foot switches or back at the wheel from a pedestal mounted up/down toggleswitch

As I say, I find old fashioned gravity perfectly capable. When we are anchoring, we want the anchor down in a fairly precise position, so we release the clutch, and the anchor whizzes down to the bottom. The clutch is then tightened sightly, so that the chain is ranged out as required. If you're anchoring in reasonably deep water, and there is any wind, you can drift a fair way while your windlass is winding down under power. It also seems to me to be a totally unnecessary use of power.

I'm sorry, but when I see somebody winding down their chain, I am reminded of that character described by the long departed JDS, "Percy, a pusher-up of ropes".

 

[Robin]

As I say, I find old fashioned gravity perfectly capable. When we are anchoring, we want the anchor down in a fairly precise position, so we release the clutch, and the anchor whizzes down to the bottom. The clutch is then tightened sightly, so that the chain is ranged out as required. If you're anchoring in reasonably deep water, and there is any wind, you can drift a fair way while your windlass is winding down under power. It also seems to me to be a totally unnecessary use of power.

I'm sorry, but when I see somebody winding down their chain, I am reminded of that character described by the long departed JDS, "Percy, a pusher-up of ropes".

Never had any power problem with powering down an anchor, often done under sail before starting the engine for the ultimate reverse-in set. I often wonder when I see instant chain dump tactics, what kind of buggers muddle could form on the bottom, chain wraps around flukes or shank etc. We choose to Power down with a watcher on deck observing. Each to their own of course but that is our preference. I would hate to hit a seahorse on the head and upset the illustrious NGM, or nowadays his Mercan counterpart. plus want to make sure we do not lasso a coral head, clump of heavy weed or a rock that might give a false sense of security with the anchor itself not set.

Edited to add P.S. Where we cruise nowadays, 20ft is considered seriously deep' 10ft is much more normal and the person on the wheel is fully competent to maintain station during a 'drop' and then lay out the rode neatly when down, as directed from the foredeck .



Percy, POR.

 

[thinwater]

I find that gravity is perfectly capable of pushing my anchor down through the water. Why would I want to "power down"?

Norman: Some windlasses can only lower by reversing the motor; there is no free fall option. Otherwise, you are obviously correct.

Robin: Time it once in a known water depth, or even just piling chain on-deck. Either will be close enough.

 

[NormanS]

Never had any power problem with powering down an anchor, often done under sail before starting the engine for the ultimate reverse-in set. I often wonder when I see instant chain dump tactics, what kind of buggers muddle could form on the bottom, chain wraps around flukes or shank etc. We choose to Power down with a watcher on deck observing. Each to their own of course but that is our preference. I would hate to hit a seahorse on the head and upset the illustrious NGM, or nowadays his Mercan counterpart. plus want to make sure we do not lasso a coral head, clump of heavy weed or a rock that might give a false sense of security with the anchor itself not set.

Edited to add P.S. Where we cruise nowadays, 20ft is considered seriously deep' 10ft is much more normal and the person on the wheel is fully competent to maintain station during a 'drop' and then lay out the rode neatly when down, as directed from the foredeck .



Percy, POR.

Yeah well if you're only anchoring in a puddle, it's fine.