Alternators - converting to LiFeP04

lol, I think that most of them learnt as they went along Bruce :)

VAS!! THATS HOW I DID MY BOAT!! THATS WHY EVERYTHING ON IT IS NEW!!

The learning curve was steep and I made plenty of cockups, but they were my cockups and though expensive none were potentially life threatening. I fear fire. I dont want to learn from my mistakes here and improve my design. I want a drop in on a proven design.
 
then get a Victron Bruce :) not sure how much they are mind. and from some videos of ppl taking them apart they use the same 3.2V cells everyone uses. Don't remember what the bms is though.

actually LifePO4 is fairly fire safe, if you check some videos, overcharging, punching and generally punishing them to the extreme.
 
VAS!! THATS HOW I DID MY BOAT!! THATS WHY EVERYTHING ON IT IS NEW!!

The learning curve was steep and I made plenty of cockups, but they were my cockups and though expensive none were potentially life threatening. I fear fire. I dont want to learn from my mistakes here and improve my design. I want a drop in on a proven design.
That’s fine, just pay up then.
 
Have you seen these, the ac200p


Lightning Week – Bluetti-UK

Probably doesn't hold enough charge for your use, but it will store 2kwh, output 2kw continuous at 240v ,can be charged from solar ( or dc) and is an all in one solution. Maybe you could buy 2?

thought you might find it interesting
 
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I use the Mastervolt Alpha Pro charge regulator. I set it to a low voltage so it doesn’t run the alternator too hard. I also find that at idle or low revs the alternator doesn’t put out much, so doesn’t need much cooling. That is down to pulley size selection and it’s usual for them to be set up this way, so yours may be too. I use the genset mainly, so engine charging is just a back up. Your priorities may be different. The Balmar has a belt saver mode that drops power in a similar way, or in another setting you can switch it high or low.
 
I use the Mastervolt Alpha Pro charge regulator. I set it to a low voltage so it doesn’t run the alternator too hard. I also find that at idle or low revs the alternator doesn’t put out much, so doesn’t need much cooling. That is down to pulley size selection and it’s usual for them to be set up this way, so yours may be too. I use the genset mainly, so engine charging is just a back up. Your priorities may be different. The Balmar has a belt saver mode that drops power in a similar way, or in another setting you can switch it high or low.

Yes you can current limit it so it's not whacking out full amps at lowish rpm and fan speed. And with the external regulator should the BMS cut off charging it wont dump 80 plus plenty volts into the system frying all my electronics.

I'm glad we are back on topic. (y)
 
Yes you can current limit it so it's not whacking out full amps at lowish rpm and fan speed. And with the external regulator should the BMS cut off charging it wont dump 80 plus plenty volts into the system frying all my electronics.

I'm glad we are back on topic. (y)
Your BMS should be able to cut the field wire, which shouldn't result in any harm.
 
Your BMS should be able to cut the field wire, which shouldn't result in any harm.

And the rest of the system? If the alternator suddenly gets disconnected from the battery, the alternator has no route to deliver it’s current. If the alternator has no other way to deliver it’s current, the load dump will most likely burn the alternator diodes and destroy the alternator. If the loads are still connected, there is also a high risk of these loads getting the load dump with extremely high voltage levels destroying all the loads. Imagine what would happen to your navigation equipment if they would get a load dump from the alternator of 80 plus plenty volts?

Load dump - Wikipedia
 
And the rest of the system? If the alternator suddenly gets disconnected from the battery, the alternator has no route to deliver it’s current. If the alternator has no other way to deliver it’s current, the load dump will most likely burn the alternator diodes and destroy the alternator. If the loads are still connected, there is also a high risk of these loads getting the load dump with extremely high voltage levels destroying all the loads. Imagine what would happen to your navigation equipment if they would get a load dump from the alternator of 80 plus plenty volts?

Load dump - Wikipedia
That doesn't happen if you switch the field off. I wasn't suggesting to disconnect the alternator. The power in the alternator will dissipate through the batteries if only the field is disconnected, just as they will when you stop your engine.
 
OK, not sure if the drop in batteries do that, I was banking on the external regulator being wired so the regulator will lose power at the same time as the alternator is disconnected from the battery, which will cause the alternator to shut down safely.
 
Drop in batteries usually just have their own cut off, so risk blowing an alternator diode. Best somehow to cut the field or you could most likely switch the regulator off to the same effect.
 
Most power tool companies are starting to introduced li- on powered generators. Not cheap but the price will come down a bit as others come on board . SYS-PowerStation SYS-PST 1500 Li HP 240 V
 
I've been running on LifePo4 for a year now on our Sealine S37. we have 560AH Lifepo4 (8 individual cells in a 2P4s configuration) with a Rec external BMS, Balmar 100A alternators on Volvo Kad44 (single V) running through Wakespeed WS500 regulators and all controlled via CAN bus and Victron.

I wish there was a way to run a serpentine belt on the alternators on the Kads coz then you could use a much bigger alternators

Lithium is amazing you won't go back to lead once you have tried it.

regarding charging options you either have to go down the DC-DC charger route which wont get you many amps or external regulators

we did run of the standard volvo alternator for a while until i got the Balmar's though if hindsight and if i do it again i would probably go with Lece Nevile alternators next time as Balmar are a rip off..

let me know if u have any questions
 
also if you are looking at drop in style batteries then have a look at renogy, they are a well known brand and cheaper then all the ones u listed 12V 100Ah Smart Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery【Pre-Order】

regarding the dump load we use a sterling Alternator Protection Device (APD12) on each alternator they are about £40 each and an insurance policy on the alternators
 
I've been running on LifePo4 for a year now on our Sealine S37. we have 560AH Lifepo4 (8 individual cells in a 2P4s configuration) with a Rec external BMS, Balmar 100A alternators on Volvo Kad44 (single V) running through Wakespeed WS500 regulators and all controlled via CAN bus and Victron.
slightly OT, care to elaborate on that?
I've got all the victron setup palava working properly, even on the N2K bus and I see there's a BMS pluggin or something (haven't checked yet!) that can run on them, is that what you have? if so, any info appreciated!

cheers

V.
 
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