vas
Well-Known Member
lol, I think that most of them learnt as they went along BruceThese guys effectively built their own. They have the knowledge and know how not to fluff it with an oversight or mistake.
lol, I think that most of them learnt as they went along BruceThese guys effectively built their own. They have the knowledge and know how not to fluff it with an oversight or mistake.
lol, I think that most of them learnt as they went along Bruce![]()
That’s fine, just pay up then.VAS!! THATS HOW I DID MY BOAT!! THATS WHY EVERYTHING ON IT IS NEW!!
The learning curve was steep and I made plenty of cockups, but they were my cockups and though expensive none were potentially life threatening. I fear fire. I dont want to learn from my mistakes here and improve my design. I want a drop in on a proven design.
thought you might find it interesting
The 32k or my 3k plan that everyone is going to town over?That’s fine, just pay up then.
I use the Mastervolt Alpha Pro charge regulator. I set it to a low voltage so it doesn’t run the alternator too hard. I also find that at idle or low revs the alternator doesn’t put out much, so doesn’t need much cooling. That is down to pulley size selection and it’s usual for them to be set up this way, so yours may be too. I use the genset mainly, so engine charging is just a back up. Your priorities may be different. The Balmar has a belt saver mode that drops power in a similar way, or in another setting you can switch it high or low.
Whichever suits you? Lots of boat owners are considering Lithium, so it would be great to hear of progress.?The 32k or my 3k plan that everyone is going to town over?
Your BMS should be able to cut the field wire, which shouldn't result in any harm.Yes you can current limit it so it's not whacking out full amps at lowish rpm and fan speed. And with the external regulator should the BMS cut off charging it wont dump 80 plus plenty volts into the system frying all my electronics.
I'm glad we are back on topic.![]()
Your BMS should be able to cut the field wire, which shouldn't result in any harm.
That doesn't happen if you switch the field off. I wasn't suggesting to disconnect the alternator. The power in the alternator will dissipate through the batteries if only the field is disconnected, just as they will when you stop your engine.And the rest of the system? If the alternator suddenly gets disconnected from the battery, the alternator has no route to deliver it’s current. If the alternator has no other way to deliver it’s current, the load dump will most likely burn the alternator diodes and destroy the alternator. If the loads are still connected, there is also a high risk of these loads getting the load dump with extremely high voltage levels destroying all the loads. Imagine what would happen to your navigation equipment if they would get a load dump from the alternator of 80 plus plenty volts?
Load dump - Wikipedia
slightly OT, care to elaborate on that?I've been running on LifePo4 for a year now on our Sealine S37. we have 560AH Lifepo4 (8 individual cells in a 2P4s configuration) with a Rec external BMS, Balmar 100A alternators on Volvo Kad44 (single V) running through Wakespeed WS500 regulators and all controlled via CAN bus and Victron.