Alternator - Seized Bolt

[TiggerToo]

I wanted to change the belt driving Tigger's alternator (VP2030), but the bolt holding it in place has rusted and is completely seized up. I tried cutting it off with a hacksaw, but there is very little space to manoeuvre. What do you think is the best way to go about shearing off the bolt? Dremel? Drill? Any alternative suggestions?

Also, I would like to get a new alternator (and recondition the existing one for "spares"). Would you recommend simply replacing with a VP unit like-for-like or is there any better idea?

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

The VP alternator, like all "marine" engine parts (except heat exchanger) is an ordinary automotive item with a coat of green paint. Bring your old one to a reputable auto-electrician (or starter and alternator repairers/suppliers). Ask them to recondition it and to supply a similar one new.

 

[Ceejay]

I wanted to change the belt driving Tigger's alternator (VP2030), but the bolt holding it in place has rusted and is completely seized up. I tried cutting it off with a hacksaw, but there is very little space to manoeuvre. What do you think is the best way to go about shearing off the bolt? Dremel? Drill? Any alternative suggestions?

Also, I would like to get a new alternator (and recondition the existing one for "spares"). Would you recommend simply replacing with a VP unit like-for-like or is there any better idea?

Is it possible to apply heat to the nut. Even a humble gas blowtorch may apply sufficient heat to make a difference, or there again it may not.

 

[RichardS]

If it's a bolt with a nut on the other side as alternators often use, then just use more force until it comes loose or shears and then you can replace it.

If it's a nut on a stud, then heat from a gas torch is definitely a good idea if there is nothing else in the area. Ideally, a rattle gun/impact driver will then shift it and leave the stud undamaged.

If it's a bolt into, particularly into an aluminium block, then heat is still a good idea but access will be difficult and heat transfer will be a problem. I would still try the rattle gun/impact driver if you have access although the bolt may well shear. However, you would then be able to deal with the remains with a stud extractor/reverse drill etc and should be able to get the heat to where it's needed.

Richard

 

[Refueler]

Just commenting .... I acquired a second inhection pump for my boat engine - basically similar idea s you Tigger ... original was giving me hassle, so I got another - fitted it and had the old serviced.

10 years later I cannot find that old 'good' pump ... and to be quite honest - it only took the service guy one day to service. The second 'in use' pump had to be 'cleaned' a couple years after being fitted .. again one day job ...

To me - a spare alternator would fall into same category ... is it necessary ?

 

[earlybird]

A dremel might work, but a bit puny. If a hacksaw is too big and clumsy for the available space then a piece of broken 12" hacksaw blade mounted in a pad-saw handle might do the trick. Failing a proper handle, wrapping the end of the saw-blade for comfort with plenty of insulating tape should be OK for just one bolt.