Alternator Adjuster

[nigelmercier]

I have a plan to make a turnbuckle adjuster, using M8 Kart Track-Rod Ends and a length of Hex Bar tapped LH/RH ...

I've made my first attempt at this alternator adjuster. It works well, but there is a problem, see later.

This is the same adjuster at the two extremes (I plan to use half-nuts both ends):

This is it mocked-up onto a shell of a Balmar alternator, like the new one I've ordered:

As you can see, I've had to put a lot of spacers in the adjuster pivot, this has always been the case.

It would be ideal if I could mount it the other side of the flange on the alternator, but part of the casing gets in the way:

Any ideas?

 

[Hadenough]

What about an L bracket using the spare hole in the alternator for a two hole base support, the L raising the adjusting pivot away from the alternator. Watching this with interest, it's on my winter list.

 

[Deleted member 36384]

Machine a solid L shaped (offset) bracket with a stud at the bottom and perhaps at the top to fit the bottle screw and green flange. The offset should be above the height of the flange centre line such that the bottle screw obviously clears the alternator. Use self locking nuts to secure the bracket to the green flange and the bottle screw. The base of the L shape bracket (or the sides) should slide over the two sides of the green flange to stop the L shaped bracket rotating.

 

[Deleted member 36384]

What about an L bracket using the spare hole in the alternator for a two hole base support, the L raising the adjusting pivot away from the alternator. Watching this with interest, it's on my winter list.

This would be better than my idea as it allows the bottle screw to extend more. My idea requires the bottle screw to reduce the length, I assume, and it is quite screwed together already and may run out of adjustment.

 

[Topcat47]

Lovely job.

 

[lw395]

I would just machine a nice spacer that hopefully looked like it was meant to be there. With the rod ends, you don't need the bolts to pivot, so the spacer can be done up properly and left alone during adjustment.
Seems to me having the adjuster take the thrust from the belt close to the plane of the belt is actually no bad thing.
So long as the anchor point is rigid enough, which it looks to be.
The spacer can be fat enough not to bend.

 

[nigelmercier]

I would just machine a nice spacer ... Seems to me having the adjuster take the thrust from the belt close to the plane of the belt is actually no bad thing...

There is already a fairly thick spacer in between all the washers. I understand your later point, perhaps I'll just make a longer one.

 

[KevB]

As mentioned above. Use the two holes in the alternator just to add an extension bar till your adjuster clears the alternator. basically a bit of metal a couple inches long with three holes in it, two to connect to the alternator and the other hole for your adjuster bar.

 

[nigelmercier]

As mentioned above. Use the two holes in the alternator just to add an extension bar till your adjuster clears the alternator. basically a bit of metal a couple inches long with three holes in it, two to connect to the alternator and the other hole for your adjuster bar.

I didn't notice this above, but I was hoping to use another method as this will make my adjuster too long. I've now decided that this is the best way, so I've made a second one that is 15mm shorter, I think this will fit! I've made a plate and will post pictures tomorrow.

 

[Avocet]

Can you buy a long-shanked spherical bearing for the alternator end? Looks like you're very close to lining up. If you reduced the length of the plain portion of your hex bar a bit at the top, and left the locknut off (it won't go anywhere with just one locknut on the bottom) might it just clear the alternator body?

Alternatively, it looks like it needs to shorten to tighten the belt. Can you just buy a slightly longer belt to start with, so the alternator swings up closer to vertical?

 

[Talulah]

With the adjuster bolted to the front of the mounting with numerous spacer washers I would be concerned about the bolt lasting.
It would ultimately shear as it is in effect un-supported for some distance from the head. i.e. a long leverage.
I would still go for the font option but it would need to be a single spacer of the right length and significant wall thickness to keep the alternator flat.
I'm also concerned about the use of track rod ends. Correct me if I'm wrong but the track rod ends have a swivel mount.
I would be concerned that once the belt was tightened up the alternator would twist around. A regular bottle screw would restrict this twisting motion better.

 

[fisherman]

Yours is very neat. I have made one very much like that on a Volvo 940 and many others.

https://www.google.com/search?site=....10.17.1617.-VIRy_6lgPM#imgrc=6CGnVKp01LEwsM:


Instead of the adjusting bolt I have a length of 8mm stud with a captive nut and a 'T' bar on the end. Just slack the clamp bolt and wind the handle.

 

[Avocet]

With the adjuster bolted to the front of the mounting with numerous spacer washers I would be concerned about the bolt lasting.
It would ultimately shear as it is in effect un-supported for some distance from the head. i.e. a long leverage.
I would still go for the font option but it would need to be a single spacer of the right length and significant wall thickness to keep the alternator flat.
I'm also concerned about the use of track rod ends. Correct me if I'm wrong but the track rod ends have a swivel mount.
I would be concerned that once the belt was tightened up the alternator would twist around. A regular bottle screw would restrict this twisting motion better.

The bottom feet on the alternator usually take all the "twist" loads. I certainly wouldn't worry about having spherical bearings at each end. I made something similar for Avocet and it's been fine for the best part of 20 years, with an even bigger offset on one end and I think (though I'd have to check!) they're only 6mm cap head bolts and spherical bearings, not 8mm as the OP is using:

 

[robertj]

nigel

great job! You have something there as I would buy one as to adjust mine is a bloody pain to be honest!

 

[LadyInBed]

This is my adjuster:

acquired from a scrap yard. The block on the threaded rod free slides up and down the rod, locking nuts (normally) either side of block.

 

[ex-Gladys]

My Lancing Ford XLD has an excellent rack and pinion on the adjustable link, loosen mounting bolts and locknut, big old open ender on the adjuster crank it to where it needs to go, nip up lock nut tighten mounting bolts. 5 minutes

 

[rogerthebodger]

This is my belt setup. # belts for 2 alternators and water pump with the water pump belt adjusted with rigging screw operated jockey pulley. Alternators by slotted tension bars as normal on cars.

 

[lw395]

With the adjuster bolted to the front of the mounting with numerous spacer washers I would be concerned about the bolt lasting.
It would ultimately shear as it is in effect un-supported for some distance from the head. i.e. a long leverage.
I would still go for the font option but it would need to be a single spacer of the right length and significant wall thickness to keep the alternator flat.
I'm also concerned about the use of track rod ends. Correct me if I'm wrong but the track rod ends have a swivel mount.
I would be concerned that once the belt was tightened up the alternator would twist around. A regular bottle screw would restrict this twisting motion better.

The bolts through the rod ends should be in fairly pure tension, putting the spacers in compression.
The shear force is mostly then taken by friction between the spacers and the rod ends and brackets.
The shear force to break an M8 is huge anyway, tonnes, literally.

 

[Lakesailor]

There is still the opportunity for movement in the spaced-out adjuster to develop enough slogger for the alternator to move and possibly throw a belt I would look at adding a bracket to positively locate that end of the adjuster.

And yes, a trianguler piece of 6mm or so steel with three holes would bolt to the alternator and lift the adjuster's spherical joint above the casing.

 

[Gumpy]

This is my adjuster acquired from a scrap yard. The block on the threaded rod free slides up and down the rod, locking nuts (normally) either side of block.

Jaguar XJS if I'm not mistaken. Used to fit them as standard to alternators. Reminds me I still have one in the lockup to go on my Beta 2203