Alternator Adjuster

Joined
20 Jun 2007
Messages
16,234
Location
Live in Kent, boat in Canary Islands
I have a plan to make a turnbuckle adjuster, using M8 Kart Track-Rod Ends and a length of Hex Bar tapped LH/RH ...

I've made my first attempt at this alternator adjuster. It works well, but there is a problem, see later.

This is the same adjuster at the two extremes (I plan to use half-nuts both ends):
Alternator-Adjuster-In-Out_zpshwfede59.png~original


This is it mocked-up onto a shell of a Balmar alternator, like the new one I've ordered:
Alternator-Adjuster-Front_zpsegu0pbvf.png~original


As you can see, I've had to put a lot of spacers in the adjuster pivot, this has always been the case.

It would be ideal if I could mount it the other side of the flange on the alternator, but part of the casing gets in the way:
Alternator-Adjuster-Rear_zpswjbef6tp.png~original


Any ideas?
 
Last edited:

Hadenough

Well-known member
Joined
9 Jan 2011
Messages
3,013
Location
No fixed abode
What about an L bracket using the spare hole in the alternator for a two hole base support, the L raising the adjusting pivot away from the alternator. Watching this with interest, it's on my winter list.
 
D

Deleted member 36384

Guest
Machine a solid L shaped (offset) bracket with a stud at the bottom and perhaps at the top to fit the bottle screw and green flange. The offset should be above the height of the flange centre line such that the bottle screw obviously clears the alternator. Use self locking nuts to secure the bracket to the green flange and the bottle screw. The base of the L shape bracket (or the sides) should slide over the two sides of the green flange to stop the L shaped bracket rotating.
 
D

Deleted member 36384

Guest
What about an L bracket using the spare hole in the alternator for a two hole base support, the L raising the adjusting pivot away from the alternator. Watching this with interest, it's on my winter list.

This would be better than my idea as it allows the bottle screw to extend more. My idea requires the bottle screw to reduce the length, I assume, and it is quite screwed together already and may run out of adjustment.
 

lw395

Well-known member
Joined
16 May 2007
Messages
41,952
I would just machine a nice spacer that hopefully looked like it was meant to be there. With the rod ends, you don't need the bolts to pivot, so the spacer can be done up properly and left alone during adjustment.
Seems to me having the adjuster take the thrust from the belt close to the plane of the belt is actually no bad thing.
So long as the anchor point is rigid enough, which it looks to be.
The spacer can be fat enough not to bend.
 

KevB

Active member
Joined
4 Jul 2001
Messages
11,268
Location
Kent/Chichester
As mentioned above. Use the two holes in the alternator just to add an extension bar till your adjuster clears the alternator. basically a bit of metal a couple inches long with three holes in it, two to connect to the alternator and the other hole for your adjuster bar.
 
Joined
20 Jun 2007
Messages
16,234
Location
Live in Kent, boat in Canary Islands
As mentioned above. Use the two holes in the alternator just to add an extension bar till your adjuster clears the alternator. basically a bit of metal a couple inches long with three holes in it, two to connect to the alternator and the other hole for your adjuster bar.
I didn't notice this above, but I was hoping to use another method as this will make my adjuster too long. I've now decided that this is the best way, so I've made a second one that is 15mm shorter, I think this will fit! I've made a plate and will post pictures tomorrow.
 

Avocet

Well-known member
Joined
3 Jun 2001
Messages
26,750
Location
Cumbria
Can you buy a long-shanked spherical bearing for the alternator end? Looks like you're very close to lining up. If you reduced the length of the plain portion of your hex bar a bit at the top, and left the locknut off (it won't go anywhere with just one locknut on the bottom) might it just clear the alternator body?

Alternatively, it looks like it needs to shorten to tighten the belt. Can you just buy a slightly longer belt to start with, so the alternator swings up closer to vertical?
 

Talulah

Well-known member
Joined
27 Feb 2004
Messages
5,805
Location
West London/Gosport
With the adjuster bolted to the front of the mounting with numerous spacer washers I would be concerned about the bolt lasting.
It would ultimately shear as it is in effect un-supported for some distance from the head. i.e. a long leverage.
I would still go for the font option but it would need to be a single spacer of the right length and significant wall thickness to keep the alternator flat.
I'm also concerned about the use of track rod ends. Correct me if I'm wrong but the track rod ends have a swivel mount.
I would be concerned that once the belt was tightened up the alternator would twist around. A regular bottle screw would restrict this twisting motion better.
 

Avocet

Well-known member
Joined
3 Jun 2001
Messages
26,750
Location
Cumbria
With the adjuster bolted to the front of the mounting with numerous spacer washers I would be concerned about the bolt lasting.
It would ultimately shear as it is in effect un-supported for some distance from the head. i.e. a long leverage.
I would still go for the font option but it would need to be a single spacer of the right length and significant wall thickness to keep the alternator flat.
I'm also concerned about the use of track rod ends. Correct me if I'm wrong but the track rod ends have a swivel mount.
I would be concerned that once the belt was tightened up the alternator would twist around. A regular bottle screw would restrict this twisting motion better.

The bottom feet on the alternator usually take all the "twist" loads. I certainly wouldn't worry about having spherical bearings at each end. I made something similar for Avocet and it's been fine for the best part of 20 years, with an even bigger offset on one end and I think (though I'd have to check!) they're only 6mm cap head bolts and spherical bearings, not 8mm as the OP is using:

ALTRNTR2.jpg


ALTRN6.jpg


alternator1.jpg
 

robertj

Active member
Joined
13 May 2007
Messages
7,313
nigel

great job! You have something there as I would buy one as to adjust mine is a bloody pain to be honest!
 

ex-Gladys

Well-known member
Joined
29 Aug 2003
Messages
5,185
Location
Colchester, Essex
My Lancing Ford XLD has an excellent rack and pinion on the adjustable link, loosen mounting bolts and locknut, big old open ender on the adjuster crank it to where it needs to go, nip up lock nut tighten mounting bolts. 5 minutes:)
 

rogerthebodger

Well-known member
Joined
3 Nov 2001
Messages
12,342
This is my belt setup. # belts for 2 alternators and water pump with the water pump belt adjusted with rigging screw operated jockey pulley. Alternators by slotted tension bars as normal on cars.

453ad44e-e09e-4f5e-a3a0-73fe36ca24d6_zpslqm8h9dg.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

lw395

Well-known member
Joined
16 May 2007
Messages
41,952
With the adjuster bolted to the front of the mounting with numerous spacer washers I would be concerned about the bolt lasting.
It would ultimately shear as it is in effect un-supported for some distance from the head. i.e. a long leverage.
I would still go for the font option but it would need to be a single spacer of the right length and significant wall thickness to keep the alternator flat.
I'm also concerned about the use of track rod ends. Correct me if I'm wrong but the track rod ends have a swivel mount.
I would be concerned that once the belt was tightened up the alternator would twist around. A regular bottle screw would restrict this twisting motion better.
The bolts through the rod ends should be in fairly pure tension, putting the spacers in compression.
The shear force is mostly then taken by friction between the spacers and the rod ends and brackets.
The shear force to break an M8 is huge anyway, tonnes, literally.
 

Lakesailor

New member
Joined
15 Feb 2005
Messages
35,238
Location
Near Here
There is still the opportunity for movement in the spaced-out adjuster to develop enough slogger for the alternator to move and possibly throw a belt I would look at adding a bracket to positively locate that end of the adjuster.

And yes, a trianguler piece of 6mm or so steel with three holes would bolt to the alternator and lift the adjuster's spherical joint above the casing.
 

Gumpy

Well-known member
Joined
12 Dec 2006
Messages
1,561
Location
A far corner of Little England
This is my adjuster acquired from a scrap yard. The block on the threaded rod free slides up and down the rod, locking nuts (normally) either side of block.

Jaguar XJS if I'm not mistaken. Used to fit them as standard to alternators. Reminds me I still have one in the lockup to go on my Beta 2203
 
Top