Greg2
Well-Known Member
We are thinking of replacing our domestic and engine start batteries with AGM batteries. Anyone have any experience of these - are they worth the extra cost and do they do better than standard lead acid batteries?
You dont *have* to change any other components but it should be realised that AGM batteries have a slightly different set of charging parameters than wet or sealed lead/acid. They wont be damaged by using the same settings but you wont be using them to get advantage of their capabilities. In retrospect, I went a bit OTT after removing an unreliable genset and relying on engine charging (liveaboard in the Med at the time) by installing a 160A alternator with a Balmar controller. I like having the ability to control the charging cycle that the Balmar controller gives but the full alternator capacity was never used (about 110A was the higest I saw during the bulk phase and then only for 5 mins or so) - didnt have solar at the time. 12 years on from putting in the AGMs they are still there but the boat is getting little use at the moment, thats a 720Ah AGM house bank and a Red Flash AGM engine start.If you fit AGM do you have to change any components charging them ? I guess an inverter works for all types but just curious. What about having AGM for the starter battery but not others if costs an issue?
Depends. normally no except you might have to change the charging profile on the mains charger, but most modern chargers have this facility. The normal alternator should be OK unless you massively increase the capacity.If you fit AGM do you have to change any components charging them ? I guess an inverter works for all types but just curious. What about having AGM for the starter battery but not others if costs an issue?
Again depends on your pattern of usage. If you are a liveaboard for example then your demands on your batteries and systems are higher so worth considering spending more. However for weekend and holiday type use probably not. The big jump in potential life comes from the change in type then incremental changes as you get up the price scale, usually in terms of more robust plates and increase in size and weight for a given capacity. You can look at the data sheets and see the total discharge cycles to help differentiate one battery from another as this gives you an idea how much potential extra life you get for the money. Inevitably you also have to consider how long you are planning to keep the boat as in the early years there is little difference in performance.
Quite different products. The first offers either FLA or AGM at the low to middle price point. sold through ebay, but seem to offer nothing you cannot get with a basic branded battery such as Varta or Numax. Leoch are up market higher cost AGMs similar to lifeline.
When choosing batteries it is sensible to look at your usage pattern and determine what type is best for you. For most weekend and holiday type boaters cruising in the UK with a mixture of on the hook and shorepower, a decent size bank reflecting daily usage and efficient engine charging capacity a good leisure type FLA is fine, but if you are wanting longer life then it is worth going up to basic AGMs as the %age extra cost is exceeded by the potential extra life. If, however you live aboard, spend long periods off shorepower or boat in hot climates your needs will differ and you have to consider other power strategies.
Depends. normally no except you might have to change the charging profile on the mains charger, but most modern chargers have this facility. The normal alternator should be OK unless you massively increase the capacity.
An AGM is less important for a start battery as it gets so little use. However a normal automotive 65Ah or so only has a premium of around £30 over an FLA. The reason for having an expensive Red flash (which is now £230!) is for space reasons. However the Odyssey equivalent I just bought was "only" £165, but I had built my box around this size to avoid creating another battery space elsewhere with the attendant work and cabling costs. I got 190Ah house and the start in a box just under 500mm square.
The real benefit of AGMs is in house applications with the faster charge acceptance and greater total cycles.
Voltage on its own won't tell you the battery's state.Further to my post#9 I have just reconnected the batteries & all 3 show 12.9-13 V . I put the shore power charger on for 24 hours & it showed that it was only adding a trickle charge so disconnected it on the basis that they were still well charged. 2 days later I filled my water tank & as I wanted to run fresh water through the pipes to flush them I ran the water for just under 4 minutes & the current discharge showing on my meter showed 5 amps. ( I was not connected to shore power). The voltage dropped to 12.4V almost immediately.
I stopped & it rose to 12.5 after 30 mins then a day later the voltage had risen to 12.7. this according to most tables is less than 90% . The NASA BM1 suggests about 75%.- but that may be a calibration issue after 5 months- I am somewhat surprised to loose 10% of capacity after 4 minutes at 5 amps on 2 No 100 amp batteries.
Is that something that one might expect?
Voltage on its own won't tell you the battery's state.
To fully check a battery, you need to put it under load and see how the voltage then responds.
There are modern, more technical, testers but I use the crude old method - a tester like this:-
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Battery Drop Tester 6/12V | BT91/7 | 1 Year Guarantee | Sealey
Generally, I connect it up, switch the load on for about 5 seconds - if the battery voltage drops to 9v or less - that battery is dead and needs replacing.
You have to be careful with load testers - you don't want to damage a good battery so don't use too often and don't load for too long.