Adverc regulator and s/s solder?

castaway

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I'm just fitting my new Adverc regultor. I have to solder a lead onto a stainless steel brush carrier extension.

Where do I get stainless solder?? this is as per instructions. Ordinary stuff with or without flux doesnt work.

Or has any one got a bit they can chuck in an envelope to me pls??

All best and hoping for fully charged batteries this summer!

Nick

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pvb

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Special flux...

I think you need a special flux for stainless steel - ordinary fluxes won't work. You can probably use ordinary solder if you have the correct flux. Might be easier/cheaper in the long run to get someone else to do it for you - you could try a jewellery maker, for instance. Or maybe post it off to Adverc and let them do it.

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VicS

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You can braze or silver-solder stainless steel. Check out the flux coated rods available at somewhere like a large B&Q or a specialist tool suppliers. You will of course need a suitable gas torch. Or perhaps someone can tell you the correct flux to use with ordinary tin-lead solder. Will killed spirit work?

I bought Coleman Tamar (but I can' track them down now) all purpose brazing rods from B&Q when I had to repair a broken brass casting a few years ago. The packet says they are also suitable for st. st. I used a natural gas/air torch.

BTW how did you get on with the gear box drain plug you were asking about a while back? Paynes working party 27&28 March. Come back and see us but bring a shovel!

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LORDNELSON

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I fitted an Adverc to my engine about two years ago and it has lived up to its reputation. When I fitted it I had to solder a lead inside the alternator regulator but did not have to solder to stainless steel. I know there are lots of different alternators fitted but if you have this difficultyand have not already queried it with Adverc I would do so as soon as possible - they are very helpful!

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Robin

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I believe the Lucas or Magnetti Marrelli alternators are the one that need a connection to S/S, our second alternator is that type. I have a friend who had one and Adverc sent him a short length of the correct solder FOC, otherwise one of the specialist alternator repair places will do it for you. We used one in Bournemouth to do our main Hitachi alternator (not S/S) simply because I could not split the casing to get at the brushes, they did the job AND checked the alternator for about £20.

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DanTribe

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Re: Adverc / Hitachi dismantling

Hi
I'm trying to do the same job but on a Hitachi 55amp alternator.
My problem is that I cannot get the rotor out of the rear casing [opposite end to pulley]. The rotor turns freely & all bolts & posts are undone, so stator is loose, but the the rotor appears to be firmly fixed into the bearing. Am I missing something blindingly bleeding obvious?
The Ardvaark instructions used the word " simply" so that should have made me suspicious.
All contributions gratefully received.
Dan

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Robin

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Re: Adverc / Hitachi dismantling

I think that is the power of magnetic attraction! I didn't even get that far with mine as I couldn't undo any of the bolts even after 48hrs of drip feeding them with Plus Gas.

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tjc

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Fitted an Adverc last year. Does all it says on the box....brilliant bit of kit. Took my alternator to Lucas and they did the soldering for a few pounds. Apparently they do it all the time and are familiar wit the Adverc.

Adverc are very very helpful if you have any trouble or queries.



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salamicollie

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Re: Adverc / Hitachi dismantling

Dan - split my last year, its not easy but requires a little brute force and ignorance (but not too much)- try clamping the pulley in a vice and easing open with a large screw driver, its a tight fit - if its one of the new style its a b**ger. Either way if your worried take it to an auto electrician who will be able to do it.

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philip_stevens

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Radio Spares sells All Purpose ‘Aluminium’ Solder, 555-099. This will solder stainless steel. I have got some and used it, and it does. The flux spits and farts as it works, and gives off a smokey plume.

Have a look at <A target="_blank" HREF=http://makeashorterlink.com/?K19A23F87>http://makeashorterlink.com/?K19A23F87</A>

The write-up on it states that it is not suitable for electrical joints, but if you use it to break down the surface barrier/tension of the stainless steel, and then use ordinary resin cored solder - i.e. low melting point - suitable for electrical joints, it will work ok.

Will joint aluminium, tin plated, brass, nickel, copper or stainless steel
Not suitable for electrical joints
18% tin, 80% lead, 2% silver alloy, contains four cores of water soluble flux
Being a soft solder, melting point enables it to be used in place of previously brazed/welded joints
Starts melting at 178°C, fully molten at 270°C


The problem is the price and size of the reel - 500grams for <font color=red>£19.68</font color=red> /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif - which makes it cheaper to have the soldering job done professionally.


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Philip
 

castaway

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Hi Vic,

Yes.. I sorted the gearbox plug issue with a spare from TMC over at Weybridge. They also put my mind at rest over the core problem, which was the foaming of the gearbox oil......apparently its just the bleed oil from the hydraulic system, and is quite normal.. one wonders why its not mentioned in the owners manual. I cant be the 1st person to have had worries over it!

Go luck on the working party, say Hi to Glen and Harold and all! Happy days!

Regs Nick


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charles_reed

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From memory when I converted my original Hitachi to the Adverc, I cut the wire from the brush and attached it to the extrenal sensor - that was of course with the old firmware which cut out, for all time, the alternator regulator.
For all the Magnetti-Marelli/Lucas/ACDelco alternators you can get a standard diode-bridge with the external field wire - any decent auto-electrician knows about it and can do the mod for you quickly, cheaply and reliably.

The Hitachi is an excellent alternator, but not ideal for marine work (non-marine bearings and exiguous insulation) and I've since replaced mine with a 100 amp marine alternator.

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howardclark

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I had exactly same problem - I bought one regulator from Adverc soldered up to see exactly what they soldered to what and then soldered up a couple of spares myself. You can buy suitable solder from Maplins code DP46A - £1.99 for the small pack - works fine.

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castaway

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Thanks for all the input on this one... I phoned Adverc 1st thing Monday and they are popping a bit of AA solder in the post...The only thing I can say at this stage is that although Adverc are very helpful, the whole process of fitting one of these things is a bit hit or miss, and I really do think that they need to prepare a "Tailored" leaflet for every alternator combination... and include things like a bit of SS solder!!!

The reason that I didnt go for the Sterling product was that their whole sales manner was very poor, and I anticipated that there would be lots of little quieries that even a fairly competant DIYer may need to have to call for help on. The Boss of Adverc, Brian, was extremley helpful.

Rather than the Irish guy at Sterling who managed to make me feel like an idiot when I called for some additional info before making my purchase.

Regds Nick

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