adjusting tappets on 6 cylinder engine

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kashurst

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I can't seem to get my head around adjusting the tappets on my 63Ps. I was quite happy on 4 cylinder engines watching the various valves open and close. Does any know the adjustment sequence for volvo 63ps i.e. as valve 1 is fully open adjust valve x, as valve 2 is fully open adjust valve y and so on ????
thanks
 
Very easy this works for Volvo 4 and 6 cyl engines.
Mentally divide the cylinders into two halves 123 & 456 in your case.
When no1 is rocking adjust its paired cyl no6
no2 no5
no3 no4
no4 no3
no5 no2
no6 no1

The firing order is 153624 so get no1 rocking and then follow the firing order and its paired cylinder.
Hope this helps.
 
Does the "rule of 13" not work on this engine then?

i.e. if adjusting no.1, get 13 minus 1 = no.12 rocking.

This is the rule I use on 4 cyl, in which case it's the rule of 9 i.e. (number of cylinders x2)+1.

Your method above doesn't seem to agree with this?
 
Trundlebug said:
Does the "rule of 13" not work on this engine then?

i.e. if adjusting no.1, get 13 minus 1 = no.12 rocking.

This is the rule I use on 4 cyl, in which case it's the rule of 9 i.e. (number of cylinders x2)+1.

Your method above doesn't seem to agree with this?
Click to expand...



Is that because spannerman is talking cylinders and you are talking valves?
 
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I know I have to look at this later this year. Assume I'm daft but how do you turn the engine over to do this exercise, or is it simply taking out the injectors? The latter sounds too obvious to be the answer!

Being horzontal engines I might brick it at the last moment anyway:-)
 
Pull the engine stops so that they will not fire, then turn over with a spanner on the crankshaft pulley nut. Watch the valves as they rise and fall when a valve is fully depressed it's open, if you have a FORD then do this 1&4 open adjust 9&12. 8&10 --3&5. 2&6 -- 7&11. 9&12-- 1&4. 3&5--8&10. 7&11--2&6. all same clearance 18thou, or mtric .457mm
 
Yes you adjust both inlet and exhaust valves on one cylinder at the same time, you rotate the engine with a socket and long bar on the crankshaft pulley nut, there is no need to remove the injectors and it will never fire as you can't rotate the engine fast enough to get any heat in the air you are compressing, if you can, I want some of whatever you are eating!
 
Be reassured, I have used Spannerman's advice on this for the past 8 years or so - I am fairly large, and using a moderate amount of effort on a long bar on a socket on the damper nut, I can turn the engine over very very slowly.

Not once has it fired and sucked me into the innards ... :)
 
spannerman said:
Yes you adjust both inlet and exhaust valves on one cylinder at the same time, you rotate the engine with a socket and long bar on the crankshaft pulley nut, there is no need to remove the injectors and it will never fire as you can't rotate the engine fast enough to get any heat in the air you are compressing, if you can, I want some of whatever you are eating!
Click to expand...

Agreed - I always adjust my 6 cyl VP engines myself - never had them fire whilst turning with a socket.
 
another question please. just looked in volvo engine manual to find out which valves are inlets and which are exhausts. lovely picture but it isn't clear which end of the engine is cylinder and valve number one. Usually I take number 1 as the end with the pulleys and pumps on i.e. farthest from the flywheel. Is this correct on volvo boat engines??
thanks
 
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