Adding anti freeze to Yanmar 1GM10

[Paul HD]

Hi to you all,
I wanted to get some antifreeze in my 1GM10
I had a bucket of water with a hose going to the inlet just before the impeller. I had a hose pipe running to the bucket to keep it topped up. I ran the engine and the water was sucked in and exited through the exhaust. It all seem to work well but the engine did not get hot.
After running for twenty minutes I added some anti freeze and that exited via the exhaust, I then stopped the engine. I could touch every part of the engine and it was slightly warm. Surely that can not be right? The water that came out of the exhaust never got warm.

Look forward to your views and advice.

Cheers,
Paul.

 

[Tranona]

Sounds like the thermostat is stuck open or not there.

While it is useful to drain and flush the cooling system it is really not necessary to use antifreeze. If the boat is out of the water just drain it and leave empty. I only ever removed the impeller on mine.

 

[Pye_End]

Did you run it in gear and under load?

 

[Paul HD]

Did you run it in gear and under load?

Hi, I didn't run it in gear under load. Will that be the reason?

Sounds like the thermostat is stuck open or not there.

While it is useful to drain and flush the cooling system it is really not necessary to use antifreeze. If the boat is out of the water just drain it and leave empty. I only ever removed the impeller on mine.

Hi, I am still on the water. The thermostat was new this summer, so it is definitely there. Good to know you have had no need to add antifreeze. I just thought with the cold snap this week it might be wise.

Cheers,
Paul.

 

[Tranona]

Yes, it needs to run under load to generate any heat. The seawater in the engine will never freeze in southern UK or even further north if the boat is in the water. Risk of freezing might occur in a boat out of the water in extreme exposed locations, mostly on the east or north east coasts.

 

[Paul HD]

Yes, it needs to run under load to generate any heat. The seawater in the engine will never freeze in southern UK or even further north if the boat is in the water. Risk of freezing might occur in a boat out of the water in extreme exposed locations, mostly on the east or north east coasts.

Hi Tranona,

Good to know. I am based on the tidal Thames, so not high salt content I would have thought.
Thanks for the replies.
Cheers,
Paul.

 

[wonkywinch]

Hi to you all,
I wanted to get some antifreeze in my 1GM10
I had a bucket of water with a hose going to the inlet just before the impeller. I had a hose pipe running to the bucket to keep it topped up. I ran the engine and the water was sucked in and exited through the exhaust. It all seem to work well but the engine did not get hot.
After running for twenty minutes I added some anti freeze and that exited via the exhaust, I then stopped the engine. I could touch every part of the engine and it was slightly warm. Surely that can not be right? The water that came out of the exhaust never got warm.

Look forward to your views and advice.

Cheers,
Paul.

Can you just drain it instead? It can't be good for the fish pumping antifreeze into the water.

 

[Refueler]

I have the books for the 1GM .. YSE ... 2Gm .. etc

The 1GM manual says :

3.4 Long Term Storage
In cold temperatures or before long term
storage, be sure to drain the water from
the seawater cooling system.
Drain water from the
cooling system after the engine has
cooled down. Be careful to avoid burns.
If water is left inside, it
may freeze and damage parts of the
cooling system cylinder block, seawater
pump, etc.)
1. Loosen the drain cock at the side of
the thermostat cover, and drain off the
water inside.
2. Loosen the 3 bolts fixing the side cover
of the seawater pump, remove the
cover and drain the water from inside.
Retighten the bolts when finished.
3. Close the drain cock.

A 'trick' that the 2GM ' 3GM (and I cannot see why not for 1GM) for long term in real cold goes a little further .... if raw water cooled ...

After draining via the drain cock on the block ... open up and remove the thermostat ... now pour in Antifreeze and watch for it exiting the drain cock .. once Anti-freeze seen - close the drain and pour in a good measure of Anti-freeze .. replace thermostat and cover.
Of course the intake needs to be drained ...

This was heavily promoted on Cruiser Forums and others ... and I have to say - it makes sense ...


No doubt some 'expert' will now tell me that's wrong ... well go check it out ...

 

[Paul HD]

I have the books for the 1GM .. YSE ... 2Gm .. etc

The 1GM manual says :

3.4 Long Term Storage
In cold temperatures or before long term
storage, be sure to drain the water from
the seawater cooling system.
Drain water from the
cooling system after the engine has
cooled down. Be careful to avoid burns.
If water is left inside, it
may freeze and damage parts of the
cooling system cylinder block, seawater
pump, etc.)
1. Loosen the drain cock at the side of
the thermostat cover, and drain off the
water inside.
2. Loosen the 3 bolts fixing the side cover
of the seawater pump, remove the
cover and drain the water from inside.
Retighten the bolts when finished.
3. Close the drain cock.

A 'trick' that the 2GM ' 3GM (and I cannot see why not for 1GM) for long term in real cold goes a little further .... if raw water cooled ...

After draining via the drain cock on the block ... open up and remove the thermostat ... now pour in Antifreeze and watch for it exiting the drain cock .. once Anti-freeze seen - close the drain and pour in a good measure of Anti-freeze .. replace thermostat and cover.
Of course the intake needs to be drained ...

This was heavily promoted on Cruiser Forums and others ... and I have to say - it makes sense ...


No doubt some 'expert' will now tell me that's wrong ... well go check it out ...

Hi Refueler,

Many thanks for all that info. Something I will do if I go into long term storage. This year I am hoping to get out on the boat every couple of weeks.

Cheers,
Paul.

 

[Refueler]

Hi Refueler,

Many thanks for all that info. Something I will do if I go into long term storage. This year I am hoping to get out on the boat every couple of weeks.

Cheers,
Paul.

Here's the info from the Shop Manual that covers all 1 - 2 and 3GM models :


As I said before - I don't fill so much .. bit wary of overfiling ...

 

[Paul HD]

I must get myself a shop manual. Cheers Refueler

 

[VicS]

I must get myself a shop manual. Cheers Refueler

You'll find it on line easily enough. Download it though for easy future reference

 

[Refueler]

You'll find it on line easily enough. Download it though for easy future reference

manualslib.com

That has them all ....

Yanmar 1gm10 - Free Pdf Manuals Download | ManualsLib

(Post not direct at you Vic ... its for OP)

 

[Cariadco]

I would have said the main usage of anti-freeze was the Anti-oxidant side of things.

 

[Refueler]

I would have said the main usage of anti-freeze was the Anti-oxidant side of things.

mmmmm outsidee today where I am is -5C .... we are to have a week ahead of -15C and lower .... think the Anti-FREEZE part may have something to do ....

I accept that generally in UK you can get away with just draining down an engine - or just flushing through with AF mix ... in fact my SR25 with Perkins 4-107 and the 4-99 before it quite often used to stay afloat all year and I didn't winterise at all .. if I lifted - then it was drain down and leave it ...
20odd yrs later ... that boat and engine is here and I flush AF through it when lifted.

 

[ducked]

Any basis for picking a particular additive package technology for this storage protection?

I'll also be buying some antifreeze to treat wood rot, where its the ethylene glycol that matters, so I'll be using concentrate undiluted. I assume the above corrosion/freezing protection is using concentrate diluted 1:1

If there isn't any reason to pick anything else I'll just get the silicate stuff.

 

[LiftyK]

If you want to prepare your boat for the cold, it doesn’t need to get hot. Run a bit of antifreeze through the engine as you did with your hose setup, then stop the engine. Leave the antifreeze in circuit. Job done, especially if you are intending to run the engine once in a while.

If you want to heat the engine oil so you can pump it out and then replace it, you will need to run the engine in water and in gear with a good amount of throttle. It takes my 1GM10 around half an hour to warm up sufficiently for an oil change. The fact that yours did not feel warm when run without load is normal. No need to be anxious about that.

 

[Refueler]

Wjhat about Yanmars Manual that says ... remove Thermostat .... open drains .... pour in AF to thermostat housing ... close drains ... fill via thermostat housing ?

I did that with the 2GM last year and we have temps down to -25C or lower ...

Yes I did pour in AF to the big inlet water filter and had engine pull that through bypass and exhaust before doing the Thermostat option.

 

[chriscallender]

Hi, I didn't run it in gear under load. Will that be the reason?

Hi, I am still on the water. The thermostat was new this summer, so it is definitely there. Good to know you have had no need to add antifreeze. I just thought with the cold snap this week it might be wise.

Cheers,
Paul.

If it's afloat it won't freeze this week since its sitting in a bath of relatively warm water (although I'm sure it wouldn't feel that way if going for a swim... but anyway way above freezing). If you have any plans at all still to run the engine, before December/January I wouldn't worry about draining it for now.

That said, back in the day when I used to leave boats in seawater that might freeze, I fitted a little tube and tap to the drain so that it was just a case of closing the seacock and opening the drain to make it a doddle to do whenever I was leaving the boat in winter because I never knew for sure when I would be back. Nowadays the problem seems more to be that I freeze in winter, rather than that the boat freezes. Winter sailing doesn't appeal any more.

PS : I opened the drain as soon as I was back, so that hopefully the themostat was still open