AD41B.....looking grim, views and advice welcome!

  • Thread starter Thread starter dpb
  • Start date Start date
At last, all injectors removed and compression test carried out.
Presumably the injectors on a well serviced engine are relatively easy to pull but these weren’t.
The cheapest puller I could find was £50 or so, so I kept with my home made version,:

IMG_0285_zps16a5ed54.jpg

Had to make sure the sleeves were not disturbed.
Also seems to be as important to turn the injectors as pull them, and using a spanner across the fuel return flange is not a good idea as this damages the flange.
Far better remove the adjacent hold down stud and bracket to get a spanner on the flat part of the injector..thanks Volvopaul...and removing the adjacent head bolt made it easier still!
One injector would not shift even though it was free enough to rotate it by hand. When it did eventually come out, it fell apart as it came clear of the head, the nozzle casing was split and I think it was the nozzle that was stuck whilst the body rotated.
The injector that I couldn’t get the puller on to due to being under the rear deck luckily came out by just rotating with a spanner.
Anyway they are all out and this is what they look like:

IMG_0295_zps31819792.jpg


Whether an injector specialist can do anything remains to be seen.
Will let you know what they say.

So on to the compression test, and true to form, none of the fittings included in my ebay purchased set seemed made for this particular application but it was fairly easy to put together something that worked:

IMG_0287_zpsbfce56cb.jpg

And the results?

Cylinders 2 to 6 all reached 250lbs per sq in
Cylinder 1.............................nothing.

Quoted required compression 355.

However my test was on a cold engine that hadn’t been run for a couple of months, I did wonder how a test on a warm engine could ever be done given the work up to get a test on once you have stopped the engine!

Internet wisdom seems to be that cold tests can show 30% less than spec figures which would make my good ones ok, but more significantly I think they were all near identical figures which is good.

So there I am...one bad number 1 cylinder.

Did a quick check of that cylinder’s valves under the rocker cover, nothing looks wrong and the clearances are normal.

Pretty sure it needs a new piston and liner.

So next step?

Well the head is coming off.......just got to make up my mind whether to do that before or after I take the engine out

As you have gone that far now I would take the head off before you take the lump out, you never know it could be the compression ring on the head gasket that's failed allowing compression into the crankcase, you may find no damage to piston and liner. Had the rings gone you would have something on the gauge maybe only 20/50 psi as it built up.
To see zero that means the whole lot is bypassing somehow.

Are the inlet and exhaust manifolds off? Look down the ports at the valves , you can now at this stage with rockers removed and valves shut pressurise the cylinder down through the injector aperture , you would then hear the blowby going into the crankcase , or if its a failed valve gas blowing into the manifolds.
 
At last...some progress

After a bit of a hiatus caused mainly by not being able to get the last bell house bolt out, and sorting out logistics I have the engine home.

Called on Mike Wills Marine to sort the bolt out and having decided to take the engine out before taking the head off due mainly to the lifting points being on said head I was down nice and early to get things ready, and a nice day it was for it to!

IMG_0382_zpsced07e3e.jpg
[/URL]

No pics of the lift as was a bit busy but here is the hole it left.

IMG_0389_zpsb3e4258b.jpg
[/URL]

Which leaves the boat riding wonky:

IMG_0391_zpsddb3c6f1.jpg
[/URL]

and higher:

IMG_0392_zps2e3fbc12.jpg
[/URL]

The operation was actually quite easy and straight forward and the engine was soon on the trailer:

IMG_0386_zpsb83a4c41.jpg
[/URL]

IMG_0387_zps902687fb.jpg
[/URL]

Got it home to find that my new engine crane works OK so I am all set to get on with it.

IMG_0395_zpse611a12f.jpg
[/URL]

IMG_0396_zpsce28f2f6.jpg
[/URL]

IMG_0397_zps0db52deb.jpg
[/URL]

IMG_0398_zps7f95c574.jpg
[/URL]

So my intention is too strip, clean and paint the thing, fix the water pump which seems to have a worn bearing then take it to aforesaid mechanic to install the piston / liners / and head (on the basis that I dont want to make a silly mistake on those bits due to the effort involved in putting such mistakes right.

So I guess the next post will be when the head is off and we can see the damage.
 
OK so problem found

Got the head off today, easy enough but boy is it heavy!
Tagged all the head bolts so they go back in the same place (never understood why thats important, anyone know?)

And confirmed the problem.
Cylinder liner of number one piston is scored, not as bad as some I have seen pictures of but scored non the less.

P1100580_zps0e2613e5.jpg
[/URL]

P1100581_zpsff7dd8a1.jpg
[/URL]

Others seem OK.

I'll spend a while cleaning everything up inside and out and then take it to the VP man to do the liner, piston and check and refit the head.
Hardest bit now seems to be removing the water circulation pump as all the bolt heads seem to be reluctant to come out.

Also not sure what this is on the head, looks like a hole plugged with something, Looks odd to me, any ideas?

P1100585_zps61e17bbd.jpg
[/URL]
 
Got the head off today, easy enough but boy is it heavy!
Tagged all the head bolts so they go back in the same place (never understood why thats important, anyone know?)

And confirmed the problem.
Cylinder liner of number one piston is scored, not as bad as some I have seen pictures of but scored non the less.



P1100580_zps0e2613e5.jpg
[/URL]

P1100581_zpsff7dd8a1.jpg
[/URL]

Others seem OK.

I'll spend a while cleaning everything up inside and out and then take it to the VP man to do the liner, piston and check and refit the head.
Hardest bit now seems to be removing the water circulation pump as all the bolt heads seem to be reluctant to come out.

Also not sure what this is on the head, looks like a hole plugged with something, Looks odd to me, any ideas?

P1100585_zps61e17bbd.jpg
[/URL]

That's a core plug and below it is the water passing port from the head to the manifold, renew the rubber seal.
 
As VP says, it is a core plug, and looks like it should be replaced before the engine goes back in. Easy to get out, and pence to buy new. You need to ensure that the seat is absolutely clean, with no debris, and use a spot of sealer with the new plug. You might check the other core plugs too, as they are much easier to replace now with the engine out, than I situ.
 
Not heard of anyone putting head bolts back in the same holes before?
Pushrods yes as its may save time adjusting valve gear and theres some argument the rods have worn to the the valve gear.
Head of my car the weekend, all bolts and rods in the same box, sort it when i out its back together and adjust tappets to suit, did that sunday and runs very well.
 
Not heard of anyone putting head bolts back in the same holes before?.

Well the workshop manual doesn't refer to it either so dont know where I got the idea from, seems it would not have mattered.
Manual does refer to putting the valve train components back in the same order though, which I have also gone along with.
 
What lead to the scoring?

Cheers,
Paul


That engine had been prone to overheating, suspected air lock somewhere as it would clear in rough water.
The vent pipe from the turbo to the header tank looks like it was blocked so that would account for an air lock.
So base cause assumed to be problem in cooling system causing overheat, causing the scoring and temporary seizure, which happened during a very brief full throttle spell.
I have been cleaning the cooling components as I have progressed and none have been particularly bad.
It has occurred to me that with an engine this old it could be an accumulation of say, air lock, crud in cooling matrixes (being cleaned), injector letting too much deisel through (now serviced), piston oil cooler nozzle issue (not yet checked) and worn water circulation pump (on the list to be fixed), all of which will get adressed during this work!
 
Heat seizure sounds a plausible explanation. It would need to get pretty hot for that to happen though. I would have expected head problems as a first symptom. Your thoughts on the piston oil cooling nozzle sounds plausible.

Is it my imagination or are there indentations in the crown of the piston? I can see a number stamp in one - I think that's normal, but I also see what appear to be minor indentations that are more random in nature. Is there a possibility that it's ingested something in the past. Have you had turbo problems in the past?

Cheers,
Paul
 
Heat seizure sounds a plausible explanation. It would need to get pretty hot for that to happen though. I would have expected head problems as a first symptom. Your thoughts on the piston oil cooling nozzle sounds plausible.

Is it my imagination or are there indentations in the crown of the piston? I can see a number stamp in one - I think that's normal, but I also see what appear to be minor indentations that are more random in nature. Is there a possibility that it's ingested something in the past. Have you had turbo problems in the past?

Cheers,
Paul

There are tiny indentations on all the pistons, have seen similar on other old engines I have worked on previously, as for history, I have only had the boat two years so your guess is as good as mine!
 
There are tiny indentations on all the pistons, have seen similar on other old engines I have worked on previously, as for history, I have only had the boat two years so your guess is as good as mine!

I would be looking seriously at the turbo and intercooler, the intercooler matrix does fall apart at that age , its next entry is the piston tops.

Some year back I had an AD 41 with little compression, after head removal a piece of metal was jammed in an open valve seat.
 
Its interesting, every 41 series engine I've seen with low compression or blow-by has been on No1 or 2 cylinder, maybe they run a bit hotter than the other cylinders, but its always been those liners and pistons that failed.
 
Just a thought on this overheat- Pistons cooled by oil jet. Oil cooled by salt water. Engine overheated occasionally. I would pay close attention to Salt water circuit, particularly oil cooler, for restrictions (just in case).

Brian
www.flushsok.co.uk
 
progressing well

Just an update for those interested.

Having pretty much stripped the block down externally and having cleaned up and painted the various components I took the engine to my Volvo Mechanic to check and repair the inards and to reassemble the head to the block for me to finish the rest.

So here was the main culprit:

P1100702_zpsae0dfa18.jpg


P1100701_zpsfca52021.jpg


So new piston and liner plus, on recommendation:
New rings to other pistons
One main bearing shell
New crankshaft seal
Two new inlet valves and the rest reseated.

Mean while I have put new bearings in the water pump.

Engine back at home to be finished before being taken back to the mechanics to be run up before going back in the boat.

So getting there!!
 
Is that a mark on the liner or is it perforated ?
May well be worth pulling all the liners and renew seals
Lack of inhibiter when a leak is topped up with water only can be fatal.
 
Good points, but the liner isn't perforated, infact sat on my desk it looks quite a different colour from the picture which I agree makes it look quite rusty. There are some light surface corrosion patches but these rub offf with a brush of the finger.
The point of taking the block to the mechanic was to make sure that someone who had seen the insides of these many times would make a sound assessment of what needed doing and I went with all his recomendations. So hopefully I can have confidence in what has now been reassembled!
 
Sorry, but what are you saying is the cause? I can see a very scored piston, and rusty outer liners, but any ideas of the cause?

Cheers,
Paul
 
Top