Achilles 7m Restoration

[[167227]]

Hi all

I am currently rebuilding an Achilles 7 meter yacht that i bought about 8 months ago. I am trying to document the build on my youtube channel as best i can. I want to fit it out for some coastal cruising and maybe a hop over to France one day in the future. The achilles boats have a great reputation, and it seems like a great boat. no osmosis etc but it is rough to look at and needs quite a lot of work. .

There is a little information about these boat. Apparently 12 were built, and mine has hull number 1

Its a pretty big job, i am currently trying to reseal the deck to hull joint which has involved splitting the joint the entire length of the boat and resealing with sikaflex and new ss bolts.

[yt]https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL1mBzAAYmvFQWwk8EqakZSgqvAZM2h4fw[/yt]

I have just completed my Dayskipper navigation and practical courses, and i am sailing as much as i can with friends. It is a huge job, but i hope to have it launched this tie next year.

Hope you enjoy the videos and pics. Please feel free to comment, and keep in mind i am quite new to sailing

 

[[167227]]

I've been trying to trace all the leaks in the boat, and decided on resealing the entire deck hull joint. It's been a massive job but it's almost done.

It involved drilling out the rivets, scraping out all of the old sealant and then filling the void with sikaflex 291i. it's been clamped down, allowed to set and then new SS bolts will be fitted to add strength. I will then glass the inside of the joint for extra rigidity.

Then i'll fit this new rubber

 

[chriss999]

Very interesting to see your project. It is a tougher version of what I'm doing with mine, a Kingfisher 20.
Good luck with it, and can you keep us posted with updates?

 

[[167227]]

Absolutely i plan to.
My youtube channel has a huge amount of updates on it. Link is in the OP. i will summarise it all here later if i can for those who dont want to watch

 

[Seajet]

Great to see someone restoring a good ' older ' boat, I am familiar with the other Achilles boats but wasn't with this one; she looks like she'll be a real go-er when you get her launched !

Good luck with your restoration, I'll keep watching now and again.

I just hope you're not expecting to moor / berth a relatively small fin keeler anywhere in the Chichester / Solent area !

 

[[167227]]

It was the only boat i could really afford at the time. Plus i like restoring things ive done a few cars now.

Im based in southern ireland, but waht makes you say that about chichester etc?

 

[Seajet]

Because deep water moorings are £1,000+PA, and a marina berth at most places around here would cost £4,000...

So my 6.7 metre lift keeler on a half tide mooring is a lot less painful here !

I had a 30' fin keeler in the late 80's when deep water moorings had much longer waiting lists than now, it was a pain and I missed my A22 so I bought her back.

It doesn't really work out running a fin keeler less than 33'+ hereabouts now.

 

[[167227]]

Thats insane! I have a free/cheap mooring available here thankfully. But wow ya that is mad money!

Thanks for the support

 

[sarabande]

There's a guy on the forum called "Waynes World" who is undertaking an incredibly detailed reconstruction similar in many ways to yours. It's worth reading his thread

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...estoration-formerly-Plant-Pot&highlight=wayne

to show how care and persistence are rewarded.


When your boat is finished, you will have a very handy and fun sailboat. Best of luck.

 

[[167227]]

Thank you for that thread, i'll enjoy reading that

I've got some photos here of when i bought it. I know i'm going backwards but i didn't realise there would be interest.

For the more hardcore followers, here is my to do list.... which is growing every day

https://trello.com/b/P56SF7K5/boat-restoration-achilles-7



















And here is a photo of my friend moving the boat for me to a location closer to my rented home in the city.

 

[Seajet]

I particularly like the stainless hook in the cabin, in the second picture; wonder how many trouser legs that has caught ?!

A brave project but very worthwhile, she'll give you heaps of fun and will likely sail straight past much larger things costing many more zero's on the tags.

 

[[167227]]

I particularly like the stainless hook in the cabin, in the second picture; wonder how many trouser legs that has caught ?!

A brave project but very worthwhile, she'll give you heaps of fun and will likely sail straight past much larger things costing many more zero's on the tags.

I had wondered why that was there but it will be going

After sealing the deck joint, i still have a leak coming in somewhere... so frustrating! But i'll find it

 

[[167227]]

i've been tipping away at the deck hulljoint and also started cleaning off the god awful sealant someone put on in what i guess was their attempt at stopping a leak...

trying the new rubber and it looks good



I'm wrestling with the idea of putting a layer of fiber glass tape over the joint so really stop the leaks... thoughts?

I've also started reparing the damage on the transom

 

[[167227]]

Episode 10

 

[chriss999]

'I'm wrestling with the idea of putting a layer of fiber glass tape over the joint so really stop the leaks... thoughts?'

In mine I thought about that but decided that the existing rivets were still good enough to hold the joint, so I just ground out any dodgy parts of the seal & filled with epoxy. My rivets are spaced at approx 5 inch centres so pretty strong I think. otherwise I'd have rounded off the corners & put a layer of glass on.

 

[William_H]

A few comments which you may consider. As said above I don't think you need fibreglass across the inside of the hull deck joint. Sika and bolts or rives should be OK.
I would not attempt to replace the carpet and wooden panels inside the cabin. I think far too much work for little benefit. I would just paint all the inside after getting rid of mould with bleach. My little boat has always been bare inside but then I am not plagued by condensation and only sail in warm times. Without linings you have a better chance of finding leaks from deck fittings. A common source of leak.
Again it may be an opinion from my climate but painting the deck with white polyurethane was a mistake. The glare in sunshine is a problem. The beige it is now would be a better colour to replicate. Plus no problem if you miss a bit.
It is highly recommended that you have all the wire shrouds replaced. They die on calender life and are not so safe after 15 years. (even if not sailed or even on the mast.) The ropes look mostly OK.
I appreciate you enjoy doing a good job of restoring. But do not get carried away. When it comes to cosmetics good enough is OK. It can take a lot of time and money when you really want to get out there sailing. Getting experience of this boat and finding what you really want by way of improvements is the way to go. Indeed I reckon it looks better than my little boat and it is I consider ready for a new season relaunch. I take mine home each winter for a bit of a tissy up.
Regarding the hole in the transom. I would (if you can reach the inside) stick some cardboard or wood covered with cling wrap into the hole to make a base for you to build up glass from the outside. The cling wrap mean you can remove it later.
If you can't reach from inside try a bit of curved cardboard or thin ali fed into the hole and pulled outward by wire through small holes in the cardboard. You will need to fashion something over the outside to pull it outwards into position while you can still apply resin/glass onto it. once you have a hardened layer of glass at the bottom of the hole you can then remove the back up and lay more glass and resin in.
Polyester resin should be OK and can be used with chop strand mat. Epoxy is better but can not be used with CSM. The trick here is to build it up with resin then let it harden. Grind away to shape then build it up again. Multiple grinding build up will get it closer to correct shape each time. But temperature can be critical for epoxy. Not so much for polyester where you put more hardener in for quicker set in cold weather.
Wooden panels under bunks etc can be cleaned up and varnished as you say. I would suggest with the upholstery that you remove the cloth covers and wash them. They may be OK and save a lot of work/time/ cost if they are OK. Look critically at the foam inside. You may want to replace if it is too grotty. I find on my little boat that the forward bunks are a bit superfluous and the forward area is a good stowage place. So no need for cushions. Just a few thoughts olewill

 

[[167227]]

'I'm wrestling with the idea of putting a layer of fiber glass tape over the joint so really stop the leaks... thoughts?'

In mine I thought about that but decided that the existing rivets were still good enough to hold the joint, so I just ground out any dodgy parts of the seal & filled with epoxy. My rivets are spaced at approx 5 inch centres so pretty strong I think. otherwise I'd have rounded off the corners & put a layer of glass on.

Thanks for that. I think for now i will stick to the original design, albeit slightly upgraded with new bolts, penny washers and nylox nuts. That should do it

A few comments which you may consider. As said above I don't think you need fibreglass across the inside of the hull deck joint. Sika and bolts or rives should be OK.

I think i may still glass over the inside of the joint. I may as well, and it will add that extra defence against leaks and add stength.

I would not attempt to replace the carpet and wooden panels inside the cabin. I think far too much work for little benefit. I would just paint all the inside after getting rid of mould with bleach. My little boat has always been bare inside but then I am not plagued by condensation and only sail in warm times. Without linings you have a better chance of finding leaks from deck fittings. A common source of leak.
Again it may be an opinion from my climate but painting the deck with white polyurethane was a mistake. The glare in sunshine is a problem. The beige it is now would be a better colour to replicate. Plus no problem if you miss a bit.

That's good advice, i have been thinking about keeping the interior as sparse as possible. I'm not sure i'll get away with painting the inside entirely as where i live its always raining and rarely warm. But i will keep in mind to avoid adding too much so i have access to bolts etc.

Also, for painting the deck white, i do plan to paint the non slip areas with grey.. but another good point is that if i miss a bit it will be obvious... so maybe ill stick to cream

It is highly recommended that you have all the wire shrouds replaced. They die on calender life and are not so safe after 15 years. (even if not sailed or even on the mast.) The ropes look mostly OK.

My budget will definitely allow for new standing and running rigging. The running rigging is old and the standing rigging is hard to assess so will be replaced for sure.

I appreciate you enjoy doing a good job of restoring. But do not get carried away. When it comes to cosmetics good enough is OK. It can take a lot of time and money when you really want to get out there sailing. Getting experience of this boat and finding what you really want by way of improvements is the way to go. Indeed I reckon it looks better than my little boat and it is I consider ready for a new season relaunch. I take mine home each winter for a bit of a tissy up.
Regarding the hole in the transom. I would (if you can reach the inside) stick some cardboard or wood covered with cling wrap into the hole to make a base for you to build up glass from the outside. The cling wrap mean you can remove it later.
If you can't reach from inside try a bit of curved cardboard or thin ali fed into the hole and pulled outward by wire through small holes in the cardboard. You will need to fashion something over the outside to pull it outwards into position while you can still apply resin/glass onto it. once you have a hardened layer of glass at the bottom of the hole you can then remove the back up and lay more glass and resin in.
Polyester resin should be OK and can be used with chop strand mat. Epoxy is better but can not be used with CSM. The trick here is to build it up with resin then let it harden. Grind away to shape then build it up again. Multiple grinding build up will get it closer to correct shape each time. But temperature can be critical for epoxy. Not so much for polyester where you put more hardener in for quicker set in cold weather.
Wooden panels under bunks etc can be cleaned up and varnished as you say. I would suggest with the upholstery that you remove the cloth covers and wash them. They may be OK and save a lot of work/time/ cost if they are OK. Look critically at the foam inside. You may want to replace if it is too grotty. I find on my little boat that the forward bunks are a bit superfluous and the forward area is a good stowage place. So no need for cushions. Just a few thoughts olewill

Thanks for all of your thoughts. The feedback does help massively even if it reaffirms my own decisions... which is always nice

 

[sarabande]

Rhys

if you have a lot of mould or algae, I can send you some magic hydrogen peroxide and silver solution used in all sorts of industries to deal with moulds, bio-film, water tank disinfection, etc. Much safer than bleach and many less risks as it is non-acidic/alkali.

PM me your address if you want some.

 

[[167227]]

Rhys

if you have a lot of mould or algae, I can send you some magic hydrogen peroxide and silver solution used in all sorts of industries to deal with moulds, bio-film, water tank disinfection, etc. Much safer than bleach and many less risks as it is non-acidic/alkali.

PM me your address if you want some.

I'd love to take you up on that offer. PMd

 

[[167227]]

Episode 11 here

I've finally sourced and solved all leaks, and have started some interior work. Things are coming along now