Scotty_Tradewind
Well-known member
Replaced my teak deck on GRP balsa sandwich with more GRP
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=255318&page=2
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=255318&page=2
A horrible job...
- Thread starter wazza
- Start date
Koeketiene
Well-known member
In our case, more GRP would have made the boat too heavy.
We removed the teak on ply - built a GRP deck with balsa (7mm) core - and then put the cork on top of that.
Overall, we 'lost' about 600kg. Deck is now stiffer, better isolated and leak-free. The boat preforms better too. Especially in lighter winds.
Scotty_Tradewind
Well-known member
??
I reckon mine lost a considerable amount of weight and gained a little strength and became watertight.
Koeketiene
Well-known member
Deck thickness: 26mm
Originally: 6mm GRP + 10mm ply + 10mm teak
Now: 6mm GRP + 7mm balsa + 3mm GRP + 10mm cork
Got the surveyor calculations somewhere: over 30m/sq of deck we 'lost' approx 600kg.
Had we gone for a 26mm all GRP deck, it would have added considerable weight.
Last edited:
BabaYaga
Well-known member
To me there are many reasons why teak decks might not be a very good idea for the majority of boats (weight, maintainence, environmental, political).
Still I think that some of the criticism aired in this thread is a bit unfair. It should be aimed at the bad practises of boatbuilders rather than at the material itself.
I lifted off the teak deck from my boat, a Vindö built 1980, a few years ago and chose to replace with new teak, screwed down and plugged the ”traditional” way.
So probably a major fool according to many posters on this forum.
But I would argue that the knowledge, methods och the materials for installing a teak deck are much better today than 30 years ago.
My old deck was screwed down on the foam cored grp deck with practically no bedding at all. No wonder some water got under it and entered the screw holes, saturating the core.
But the teak wood itself had stood up remarkably well. The original 12 mm was nowhere thinner than 9 mm, mostly 10 – 11 mm. Hardly any cracks.
The new teak is set in a polyurethan bedding of the same kind that is used for decks that is glued to the substrate. So the ”1 000 screws” are only useful until the bedding has cured. And the 1 000 holes in the deck are sealed by the same compound.
So I would claim that today any new teak deck (installed this way) is glued rather than screwed. And will likely last a very long time.
http://www.ybw.com/forums/images/attach/jpg.gif
Still I think that some of the criticism aired in this thread is a bit unfair. It should be aimed at the bad practises of boatbuilders rather than at the material itself.
I lifted off the teak deck from my boat, a Vindö built 1980, a few years ago and chose to replace with new teak, screwed down and plugged the ”traditional” way.
So probably a major fool according to many posters on this forum.
But I would argue that the knowledge, methods och the materials for installing a teak deck are much better today than 30 years ago.
My old deck was screwed down on the foam cored grp deck with practically no bedding at all. No wonder some water got under it and entered the screw holes, saturating the core.
But the teak wood itself had stood up remarkably well. The original 12 mm was nowhere thinner than 9 mm, mostly 10 – 11 mm. Hardly any cracks.
The new teak is set in a polyurethan bedding of the same kind that is used for decks that is glued to the substrate. So the ”1 000 screws” are only useful until the bedding has cured. And the 1 000 holes in the deck are sealed by the same compound.
So I would claim that today any new teak deck (installed this way) is glued rather than screwed. And will likely last a very long time.
http://www.ybw.com/forums/images/attach/jpg.gif
