A few winter Jobs

[thesaintlyone]

So with the Seacocks all out where required and winter well and trully on us . I thought I would tackle a few easier jobs and would like some suggestioms on the best options for each.

First is the interior cubby spaces which are looking a little tatty. Is it just a question of painting???

https://flic.kr/p/QkWteo

Secondly Would like to repaint the boot stripe along the side of the hull. Its old flaky paint. Any suggestions on how to remove/prepare and which paint to use

https://flic.kr/p/QV7iwV

Also need to remove the old name paint as I plan on changing it

https://flic.kr/p/QJDUUZ

Finally one of the staction bases looks decidely dodgy on the outside whats the best course of action. Defo some weakness there as the stanction moves

https://flic.kr/p/QV7mce

I know these are some of the easier jobs but waiting on some electrical componemts and warmer weather to invite some peeps up to look over the engine and other stuff so thought I would get started on smaller jobs in the meantime.

Many Thanks and Happy New Year

 

[PaulRainbow]

First is the interior cubby spaces which are looking a little tatty. Is it just a question of painting???

You could paint, but if that's the hull at the back i'd line with foam backed vinyl. It won't condensate in there then.

Secondly Would like to repaint the boot stripe along the side of the hull. Its old flaky paint. Any suggestions on how to remove/prepare and which paint to use

That is the "cove line", the "boot top" is the line just above the waterline. Hot air paint stripper (don't melt the hulll) followed by wet and dry. International do a range of paints for this, as do several others. Single pack paint is simple enough to get a decent finish with a brush.

Also need to remove the old name paint as I plan on changing it

Hot air stripper again, followed by sanding wet and dry using a sanding block. The old lettering will leave a raised surface on the gelcoat, the sanding block will flatten it down again.

Finally one of the staction bases looks decidely dodgy on the outside whats the best course of action. Defo some weakness there as the stanction moves

Looks like you have some water ingress here, especially if the base is moving where it joins the hull. You will need to investigate that and most likely cut the GRP out where the stanchion base sits on the raised area. I think you'll find a plywood block in there, which will most likely be rotten. If so, replace it and redo the GRP.

Happy New Year

Same to you.

 

[Fr J Hackett]

So with the Seacocks all out where required and winter well and trully on us . I thought I would tackle a few easier jobs and would like some suggestioms on the best options for each.

First is the interior cubby spaces which are looking a little tatty. Is it just a question of painting???
A good scrub out with one of the propriety patio anti mould preparations followed by a repaint if necessary
https://flic.kr/p/QkWteo

Secondly Would like to repaint the boot stripe along the side of the hull. Its old flaky paint. Any suggestions on how to remove/prepare and which paint to use
Mask off top and bottom scrape and or carefully sand to remove all the loose stuff then repaint.
https://flic.kr/p/QV7iwV

Also need to remove the old name paint as I plan on changing it
Difficult if it's painted on as it will be well etched and staining the gelcoat underneath it, can only suggest carefully sanding and polishing with the new name placed over it to hide as much of the residue as possible.
https://flic.kr/p/QJDUUZ

Finally one of the staction bases looks decidely dodgy on the outside whats the best course of action. Defo some weakness there as the stanction moves
Remove station put a substantial backing plate in the interior and scrape out the gelcoat cracks and fill with a matching gelcoat then sand and polish. Investigate the backing plates or lack of on all the other stanchion bases, replace or fit as required
https://flic.kr/p/QV7mce

I know these are some of the easier jobs but waiting on some electrical componemts and warmer weather to invite some peeps up to look over the engine and other stuff so thought I would get started on smaller jobs in the meantime.

Many Thanks and Happy New Year

 

[PaulRainbow]

Remove station put a substantial backing plate in the interior and scrape out the gelcoat cracks and fill with a matching gelcoat then sand and polish. Investigate the backing plates or lack of on all the other stanchion bases, replace or fit as required

His boat is about 40 years old and has survived that time without backing plates Pete. The area where the stanchion base is fitted is substantial, over an inch thick i would guess. It is so strong normally that it won't even flex if you bent the stanchion over, the base would snap off and still no flexing. If he has movement at deck level now the deck core is rotten.

 

[thesaintlyone]

Its the only visible deck issue so I wonder if someone may have fell on it or it got a whack somehow

 

[PaulRainbow]

Its the only visible deck issue so I wonder if someone may have fell on it or it got a whack somehow

Where exactly is the movement ?

Is the GRP flexing ?

 

[Concerto]

It looks like the stanchion base has been whacked at sometime. The deck may have just stress cracking on the gel coat. IIRC you have a a Westerly, so the deck in that area will be solid glass with a ply pad under which will be covered (including the bolts) with a layer of glass when the deck was fitted. It is unlikely the glassfibre was damaged. The best way to fix it is to grind out each crack with a Dremel to remove any dirt and then fill with Plastic Padding Gelcoat Filler. Sand smooth and compound to polish.

 

[VicS]

Its the only visible deck issue so I wonder if someone may have fell on it or it got a whack somehow

No As PR says those aluminium alloy stanchions break before any impact does that amount of damage,

I agree with the suggestion that the glassed in wooden pad has rotted.. then an impact has caused the damage to the unsupported GRP.

 

[johnalison]

A lot of a boat's character is conveyed by the name. My last boat had a name painted by a sign-writer, but that is a bit passé these days. Most people now use vinyl lettering. Mine has lasted 17yrs in good condition, and I had a free choice of design. You could buy individual letters and do it yourself, but the spacing and alignment are critical and usually look tacky.

 

[thesaintlyone]

Its just right below the stancion right where its cracked its only slight but noticable.

 

[thesaintlyone]

My cousin does sign writing so no issue just need to clear it away first

 

[PaulRainbow]

Finally one of the staction bases looks decidely dodgy on the outside whats the best course of action. Defo some weakness there as the stanction moves

Its just right below the stancion right where its cracked its only slight but noticable.

You're still not being very clear. You say the stanchion moves, moves how/where ? Stanchion moves in the socket or the base is loose against the GRP or the GRP is flexing ?

Edit : Looking again at your picture, zoomed in, the stress cracks all emanate from the innermost screw and the base looks like it's moved. If you get hold of the stanchion and push it from side to side and get any movement at all in the deck, it's a good bet the ply is rotten. If it is, you need to replace it and repair the GRP/Gelcoat.

 

[Concerto]

You could always have the name on a painted panel like a scroll. That would cover any discolouration from the old letters.

The hull will have 2mm or more of gel coat as Westerly always used a double coat, so you may be able to sand the area back and then compound for a shine.

 

[Concerto]

I agree with the suggestion that the glassed in wooden pad has rotted.. then an impact has caused the damage to the unsupported GRP.

As I mentioned before, the plywood pad is a backing pad, not part of a composite deck. When the fiberglass over the bolts is cut away the nuts and washers are on the plywood. The deck was fiberglassed to the hull, all the way round and as the deck fittings had already been fitted all the nuts would be covered with fiberglass. Yes the wood can rot, but the structral integrity of the deck would not be compromised and would not flex because of the rot. The deck fitting would be loose and would be rocking by now, if it does not rock then the plywood probably has not rotted. This is definitely impact damage, probably from brushing a wall or another boat.

 

[PaulRainbow]

As I mentioned before, the plywood pad is a backing pad, not part of a composite deck. When the fiberglass over the bolts is cut away the nuts and washers are on the plywood.

Pretty sure that isn't how mine is (i may be mistaken, but that's not how i remember it from earlier this year). Whilst it isn't a composite deck, the ply is completely glassed in and then the nuts and washers, which are then covered with a couple of layers of matting. I chopped that off with a wood chisel when i replaced a couple of stanchion bases earlier this year.

 

[VicS]

. The best way to fix it is to grind out each crack with a Dremel to remove any dirt and then fill with Plastic Padding Gelcoat Filler. Sand smooth and compound to polish.

No point in filling the cracks and just doing a cosmetic repair to the gelcoat without replacing the rotten wood reinforcing pad buried under there in the deck layup. Another knock and it'll be back to square one!


The way forward is to remove the fitting ( which will need the matting to be chopped away from the nuts ) and investigate just what has happened and what steps will be necessary to rectify.
I had one off and I definitely don't remember finding a backing pad under the deck.

 

[Concerto]

When Westerly built their boats they followed a simple principle. The deck was balsa or foam core, but with plywood in areas of fittings. However at the deck edge this was solid fiberglass and a pad fitted on wet glass. All main deck fittings were then fitted and to ensure no leaks the fittings were glassed over (a pain for later working as it has to be cut away). The foam backed vinyl was then fitted. The deck was then fitted to the deck and the deck to hull joint was then fiberglassed over for strength and a waterproof seal. It was at this time that the stanchion bases were glassed over.

Last year I removed and replaced all the stanchion bases on my Fulmar, so I am talking from a point of knowledge. Both the OP and my boat were made in a similar time period, so I doubt if there is any difference in manufacturing.

 

[Spirit of Glenans]

A lot of a boat's character is conveyed by the name. My last boat had a name painted by a sign-writer, but that is a bit passé these days. Most people now use vinyl lettering. Mine has lasted 17yrs in good condition, and I had a free choice of design. You could buy individual letters and do it yourself, but the spacing and alignment are critical and usually look tacky.

The company, contactable by the link below, provided lettering which I have successfully used on two boats. The material seems to be quite long-lasting. You can watch explanatory videos on the website.
No connection etc etc.
http://en.stickair.com/

 

[PaulRainbow]

The deck was balsa or foam core, but with plywood in areas of fittings. However at the deck edge this was solid fiberglass and a pad fitted on wet glass. All main deck fittings were then fitted and to ensure no leaks the fittings were glassed over (a pain for later working as it has to be cut away). The foam backed vinyl was then fitted. The deck was then fitted to the deck and the deck to hull joint was then fiberglassed over for strength and a waterproof seal. It was at this time that the stanchion bases were glassed over.

Last year I removed and replaced all the stanchion bases on my Fulmar, so I am talking from a point of knowledge. Both the OP and my boat were made in a similar time period, so I doubt if there is any difference in manufacturing.

I'm struggling to understand your description. We may be talking about the same process here and i'm just being fick.

As i remember mine (Westerly Discus from the same era as yours and the OP), the ply block is fitted under the deck GRP and then glassed over, so it is encapsulated. The stanchion base is screwed through the whole structure and then the washers and nuts are glassed over. This is just a patch of 2 or 3 layers of mat. Cutting this off with a 1" wood chisel wasn't as horrible as it looked like it might be, but it did not expose the underside of the ply pad.

It seemed like the retaining holes had been tapped all the way through, i had to remove the nuts from underneath and then wind the screws out from above.

 

[Yngmar]

That is the "cove line", the "boot top" is the line just above the waterline. Hot air paint stripper (don't melt the hulll) followed by wet and dry. International do a range of paints for this, as do several others. Single pack paint is simple enough to get a decent finish with a brush.

Or get a roll of Coveline tape, which is UV resistant vinyl tape - applies as easily as masking tape and lasts for 5+ years. No masking, no paint, just slap on and done. Seen a guy do this in the boatyard and it took him all of an hour and looked great.