20% Rot in my forward hatch.

S

shanemax

N/A
Joined
10 Jan 2008
Messages
684
Visit site
I have 25% rot in my forward hatch. I have pulled most of the rotten dusty wood out. There is still plenty of solid wood left, enough to fill. I have drilled 20-30 plus tiny 1.5 inch holes and applied Ronseal wet rot hardener. I know the purest will say replace the lot but I have not got the time this year. I intend filling it with P40 which is a fiberglass mix, perhaps P38 as a finish and then applying a coat of resin before finding a suitable stain. Do you think P40 is the ideal product as I have not started the filling process yet.
 
shanemax said:
I have 25% rot in my forward hatch. I have pulled most of the rotten dusty wood out. There is still plenty of solid wood left, enough to fill. I have drilled 20-30 plus tiny 1.5 inch holes and applied Ronseal wet rot hardener. I know the purest will say replace the lot but I have not got the time this year. I intend filling it with P40 which is a fiberglass mix, perhaps P38 as a finish and then applying a coat of resin before finding a suitable stain. Do you think P40 is the ideal product as I have not started the filling process yet.
Click to expand...
You say "tiny 1.5 inch holes" but I regard 1.5 inch as large!. The P40 will fill the holes but it will not bond very well, I assume it is a polyester resin. The movement of the wood due to changes in moisture content will, likely break the bonds. An epoxy resin repair kit from the yacht chandler's with filler powder will provide a much better bond. If you are going to coat in resin then you will need to coat that with a good varnish that has a UV inhibitor or paint.
 
Reading that as 1.5mm holes, I'd be more inclined to use some mat and epoxy resin, vac bagged on. Then fair with whatever you fancy and paint. It's a bodge, but would be strong and watertight.
 
As long as the entire hatch is sheathed with mat and resin to finish then the filler is immaterial as it will be protected. Stain won't look good on resin so why not fair the surface and either gelcoat (with added wax) or paint. You can use car aerosols for a professional looking finish.
 
Strong and watertight for 12 month will suit me while I source some hard wood or thick marine ply to replace the various parts. I drilled several 1.5 mm holes about 25mm deep into the remaining wood as recommended by Ronseal to allow the fluid to soak in thoroughly.
 
If you’ve got it “good enough” with your efforts just now, are you able to wrap in cling film and make a mould of it before you refit? A few summer mid week evenings could see you laying up a solid grp one in time for winter?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top