1GM10 Engine mounts

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JohnnyG818

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I am at the point of putting the motor back in to the boat after fitting new valves, rocker arms etc and notice that the rear engine mount is starting to seperate from the rubber.
Firstly, is there any way to re-bond the rubber to the metal?
Secondly, why are they made this way? Many car engine mounts have the rubber doughnut secured with bolts through the centre to the steel, allowing them to be replaced.
Given the ridiculous price of a single mount, if I can understand why they are made like they are, I can decide wether to modify them all for a fraction of the cost.
Any opinions welcome please.
 
I seem to remember that asap do a replacement mount for a lot less than the genuine article.
Maybe worth an enquiry.
 
I agree that all four should go. Its the £400+ for such a basic item that frustrates me. An engine mount as I understand it is there to remove vibration and stresses on the hull in the same way that a car mount does on a chassis. If you make a comparison to car mounts that are for much larger motors, the cost drops to under £100 for all 4. So other than the normal "marine" inflation, is there a reason that they are made with bonded rubber, and could the rubber be replaced with bolted rubber.
I have looked at the ones on asap and they are of a different design. They draw no reference to the differing loading values put on the front and rear yanmar mounts. Is this an issue? Or does it not really matter?

The boat was broken in to when the previous owner had it, the hatch was left open for a good time, so I'm told by the gent that keeps an eye on the moorings. Water continually dripped through the stairs, over the engine, and when he finally had it bought off the mooring he just shut her up and left her. I bought her 3 years later, and have just turned the lump of rust back into a running motor.

Just frustrated that after all the hours to salvage the thing, I'm stopped by a block of rubber!
 
1GMs move around a lot, particularly at tickover and the mounts are very soft. There are alternatives that are cheaper but you might find them less effective at controlling movement and transmitting vibration to the hull.

Smoothing the installation is quite a challenge. in my experience (based on the installation I did) having a fully supported propshaft with a bearing at each end and a good flexible coupling such as a Bullflex or a Centaflex and new standard mounts is a good as you can get.
 
I replaced my mounts for different mounts from ASAP as the yanmar originals are a joke at the price. New ones much netter and went for slightly harder, 2gm20 and vibration actually lower. Then needed replacing after damage to the front pair following p bracket broke and shaft bent whist at see and had to get home.
 
To to clarify something, car mounts do not have a bolt that goes through rubber, the studs are bonded to a steel flange each side of the rubber. If you decide to make your own bear that in mind.
 
The details of the mounts ie weight capacity is in the manual, the front ones, gearbox end have a higher rating as more weight there. The ASAP replacements look different but are an easy fit, they are flat topped not vee shaped

For 1gm20 the manual rates them 50 for rear and 75 for front
 
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Ok. New day......less angry.
Thanks for the replies.
I thought it was such an obvious solution that someone on here would have tried it, or there was a good reason why not too!
Asap it is then!

Thanks
 
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