12v drill

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KAM

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Just adding wires so I can run the drill off boats supply. I presume the third connection is for a battery thermistor. Will it run or will I need to add a resistor. Any idea what size. Its a makita but I don't have a battery to measure.
 
I did just that with an old NiMh drill and it ran fine with no need for the third wire to be connected.

Stating the obvious, but don't connect the drill's battery while the drill is connected to the ship's supply lest it dangerously overcharges, assuming it to be Lithium.
 
Thanks for all the info. Its a new Makita body which i got ver cheaply so its lion. I checked out my other drill and it looks like the battery has a standard 10k thermistor in it. It certainly doesent work without. Should be a simple job to fit. It's easier than carrying a charger or storing batteries unused for months. It's replacing a very small hand drill which gets used about twice a year but it's been a bit marginal at times.
 
I had an an ancient B&Q 12v drill which needed a new battery but unobtainable. So removed battery and wired directly to the 12v boat battery for boat work. Worked well then got a cheap 16v cordless drill from Aldi, which is excellent.
 
I ran a 14.4v drill directly from the 12v supply for years and it worked very well.
Bit slow, but plenty of torque.
I kept the battery (disconnected) so it stayed balanced in my hand.

Sadly I dropped it and broke the casing whilst in Weymouth last May.
 
The drill I'm using is a 10.8v Makita ctx which I got new on eBay for £18. It seems to be genuine. It's easy to solder the connections inside the handle and run the leads out of an existing slot without any other modifications. Makita have uprated it to 12v. A really nice feature is that unlike my workshop drills the led light stays on (Seems to be on a timer) so its really handy for doing up hose clips in dark places.
 
A lot of these cordless prodcts will run happily from any battery pack or supply.
I had an ancient 4.8V screwdriver, wired it to a 6V lead acid battery, used it heavily with no issues building small production runs.
I've taken motors and drives out of quite low voltage tools, they will run happily at twice the volts, provided you don't stall them too much.
The limit might be the trigger speed control module.
But I have a 12V Li-Ion drill from Ikea, £30, it is going strong after 5 years, my default tool. Not much point in pratting about with cables to the boat battery at that price.
I have an inverter and several 230V drills. When a cordless drill won't swing a 35mm wood bit or a metal cutting holesaw, you want something proper.
 
I had/have some old B & D 9.8 VDC I think drills converted to run on 12VDC and as long you dont run them at high load for a long time works great.

I have even used one to make an electric outboard and another as a screw jack hatch lifter.
 
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