Recent content by joae

Had the same issue with one of my oil coolers for a KAD44. The endpieces are brass and was not affected at all, but the aluminium housing was badly corroded. Had a guy at work weld it up and then I machined the housing. works fine so far. The other engine is another story... It was leaking...

I have done this the past weekend and the easiest (in my opinion) is to: remove the air filter box oil dipstick tube compressor inlet pipe the 2 hoses for the oilfilter (plug these to make cleaning up easier). remove the seawater hoses of the oilcooler remove the 3 screws holding the oil...

You may think twice before making the sump in stainless as you may encounter some galvanic corrosion problems. I think there are corrosion resistant steel (corten?) or just make a bit thicker (and heavier) than the original...

I have the same cooler and my drain was also like baked clay as BruceK mentions. I guess this is what they call selective leaching ;-). I soldered on a new fitting and fitted just a plug and pressure tested the cooler. If this falls of you could sink the boat if left unattended so I think this...

I think you should stretch your budget to buy a Princess! However I am pretty heavily biased as we have an old V40 and quite often we get comments from people and strangers that it is a very nice and beautiful boat. When this happens you tend to forget about the cost of the boat and the hard...

Thanks fred247! I will try that.

As often, gas escapes easier than liquid but this type of seal is dead simple and works for pressures well over 100 bar in liquid and gas. About the torque this is interesting topic as the bolts are only partially threaded and the female thread is in the injector and you dont want to risk this...

Follow up: Dont know what I did wrong but the seals seemed to leak when pressurized with air and applied soapy water, but they haven't leaked a bit diesel to what I can see during the summer season (~50 h). Wonder if my testing was wrong. The seals are very simple and should be completely tight...

I have a Princess V40 1999 that have cracks in the varnish on some of the interior doors. I have planned to fix this but it would be good to know the which type of varnish to use. I have emailed Princess the question but have not received any reply.

I am thinking of the same solution for my twin DP-E with rack and pinion type of steering cable. One thing to note is the added need for at rudder indicator (mine is today integrated in the steering wheel) and the fact that no hydraulic steering I have tested is free of backlash. So the solution...

TAMD 63 doesnt have Limp mode as they are mechanical to my understanding. Does your EC control have limp mode? My guess is that the problem lies in cabling and/or sensors. Strange to affect both engines at the same time. Look for part in the system that is shared (power supply?)

Looks like what I am looking for. Thanks!

Super nice video! Its obvios that you both have the skill for this and put in the effort of doing this kind of production. Thanks for sharing! We are on the west coast of Sweden but thinking of visiting Stockholm archipelago via the Gota canal this summer. Any tips?

Great boat! Solid and well built. Mine has KAD44 EDC and I would go for the EDC controls instead of wires. Also look out for cracks in the clear coat on the doors inside as Bruce mentioned. Shaft drives may be more solid than outdrives but estimat additional 1 litre/NM for shafts.

Also Thanks for your replies. I will try to remeber to give an update on this when I know the real world result ;-)