Recent content by bluedragon

SAVAGESEADOG - I've been trying to contact you but your PM inbox is full and my messages are not getting through it seems.

SOLD today - sorry guys.

SOLD

Sorry, it is the electrode, not the kit. I'll see if I can amend the title of the post.

Galvatest EC4870 electrode for anode and leakage current checks Bought last year from the supplier in France, but never got around to using it. New and unused in original package with instructions. "Dedicated to pleasure boats, the Galvatest electrode allows you to check the activity of your...

Bought new from Saltyjohn. Used only once to set up the rigging on my previous boat. Box is a bit battered but the gauge is in as-new condition. £55 inc. UK postage. PayPal or cheque.

For those who remember Cardiff Bay before the barrage, you'll feel right at home :D But seriously, it should not put people off. We got back yesterday after a few very pleasant days in Watchet over the Carnival weekend. Second visit this year. They are very helpful and try to keep the visiting...

In the end a friendly engineer with an oversize 1/4" allen key and big hammer managed managed to cut a good enough purchase in the head to get it out. Last option before drilling he said. It worked.

Both good ideas. The Galvatest unit is certainly worth a try. I think I'll get one. I see MG Duff supply hanging anode kits - probably easier than making one up myself. They say they protect saildrives, but I'll have a word with them. If it avoids the hassle of taking the prop off every year...

Maybe this is the answer. But would a hanging anode (from say the transom) replace the need for leg anode completely I wonder? The internal wiring would be quite straight forward to an external terminal, but then what wire to dip into the water? Copper, tinned copper, something else?

I probably will, but my main concern is not so much having protection in the fresh water (I could put a Mg anode on for the winter anyway), but if I fit an Al alloy anode now, will it still be active in seawater in say June having sat in fresh for two months?

Not quite sure where the electrical isolation occurs? Is it where the drive connects to the engine, or just the lower leg? Need to have a look at this.

It's anode time again :-(( Well, for most of you it's no problem - seawater / zinc is a proven combination. But for those of us berthed in fresh water behind a barrage and sea lock (Cardiff Bay) it's a nightmare. Magnesium for freshwater, that's clear advice from Mg Duff and others, but go out...

Thanks, that's exactly the procedure I'm thinking of. It sounds like it did the job for you. I'll certainly be using new bolts from now on, and coating the shaft that goes through the cone with grease or similar (I did that the first year after I bought the boat, but then got a bit complacent)...

The hated hex (Allen key) bolt which passes through the cone and prop on my Volvo 120 saildrive refuses to budge this year! The hex socket is getting worn with all the tries and it's now hard to get a grip even with a hex tool which I normally use on a 1/2" socket handle. I'm not sure where it's...