quick one on Turbo removal

[jon and michie]

Hi - in preparation of getting my Kad300 Turbo reconned - can anyone tell me what size spanner the main 4 nuts are as I am not near the boat and thinking of using a crows foot then I can torque then down correctly when rebuilding back up.
Many thanks
Jon

 

[BruceK]

The far right one is a dog to get to with the oil pipe in the way. I seem to remember the spanner being quite small. Almost all bolt fittings are either 12-13 8mm pairs or 14-15 10mm pairs so I'm pretty certain 12-13 will do you as they wont be 10mm bolts. Whether you can get a torque wrench back there remains to be seen. no chance on mine. If you cross tighten them correctly in increments when they stop turning without being a gorilla about it, it should be close as dammit.

 

[jon and michie]

Thanks Bruce

 

[volvopaul]

stainless nuts are 15mm

 

[spannerman]

A 1/4 inch ratchet with an assortnent of extensions and 12 mm short and long sockets will aid removing the oil pipe under the turbo. Don’t forget new gaskets for the oil feed and return, and don’t remove the tape holding the rubber water passage seals on the turbo to manifold gasket and note which way its fitted as it has a step on one side.

 

[jon and michie]

Many thanks for your replies volvopaul and spannerman.
Jon

 

[jon and michie]

Right I removed the turbo this afternoon noted that the step side was pointing upwards to the turbo face on the gasket.
Fairly straight forward but found getting the unit free was a little tricky with the oil pipes above and below is there a knack for this or should I have done something else?
Jon

 

[spannerman]

It is a bit of a wriggle to get it on and off, but seems like you did it ok.

 

[jon and michie]

spannerman - yeah all straight forward - i bagged the bolts for each flange noting which went were (top flange had a larger 8mm bolt).
I undid a pipe bracket holding the oil pipes together and I had to rotate the turbo unit until the smaller edge was passable over the top pipe and flange if this makes sense.
took my time had it done and oil pumped out of the engine within 2hrs also removed the air box, elbow to aid getting in.
I then covered over exposed holes like exhaust to the engine etc.
top tip have a magnet at the ready to retrieve any bolts or socket if it drops into the bilge.

one thing though it does say about making note of the orientation of the gasket in the workshop manual but on the next page on rebuilding it says to have the raised edge facing up ?

Jon

 

[jon and michie]

Before I removed the turbo I took the boat out to warm the engine
and noted it could only get 2600 rpms when I removed the elbow there was a build up of soot, also noticed on the unit part way around on the exhaust side that it appeared rust coloured on the bolts and I blew into the return coolant tube but seemed blocked, tried to spin the turbine fans which they did turn but did not "Freewheel"
The exhaust fan itself the tips actually dont look that burnt out but due to the corrosion and the inevitable that the unit is either going to be reconned or new is why I have took the steps of removing now.
I am thinking of a recon unit with stainless sleeves at the moment

Jon

 

[jon and michie]

Right so the turbo is now removed here is what I found

Outlet to the intercooler looks ok
The exhaust tips look worn but I wouldnt say excessive just the corrosion
The exhaust side bolts look like they have been subject to heat.
The return coolant nipple which I blew down - now I dont know if there should be free flow here but I blew down that and appeared to be blocked is this normal ???

 

[jon and michie]

again a distant shot of the exhaust side - there is some exhaust paste residue present

 

[spannerman]

The heat marks are normal, the paint burns off then they rust, the water nipple MUST be clear this is so the water jacket on the turbo self bleeds otherwise air will be trapped in the turbo so no cooling, its probably the holes in the banjo bolt that are blocked. The exhaust paste isn’t unusual, I have often used it myself seeing as Volvo don’t have a gasket there. On reassembly almost tighten clamp ring and then wriggle the exhaust bend about a bit to get it seated and centralised before tightening up. Fit the manifold gasket as per instructions. From the photo the tip clearance on the blades looks excessive which will lose you boost.

 

[jon and michie]

Thanks for that spannerman.
Jon

 

[volvopaul]

Oncev

The heat marks are normal, the paint burns off then they rust, the water nipple MUST be clear this is so the water jacket on the turbo self bleeds otherwise air will be trapped in the turbo so no cooling, its probably the holes in the banjo bolt that are blocked. The exhaust paste isn’t unusual, I have often used it myself seeing as Volvo don’t have a gasket there. On reassembly almost tighten clamp ring and then wriggle the exhaust bend about a bit to get it seated and centralised before tightening up. Fit the manifold gasket as per instructions. From the photo the tip clearance on the blades looks excessive which will lose you boost.

Once the exhaust housing is blasted the fan to housing gap will be excessive, I can get new housings if required . Loss of power .

 

[jon and michie]

Thanks for that Paul will bear this in mind
jon

 

[jon and michie]

In preparation I am about to order this kit Exhaust Turbo Gasket Set for Volvo Penta Diesel 31, 32, 41, 42, 43, 44
and clean all mating faces - change the oil filter out this weekend and pour new oil in the engine - I will top up the coolant once the turbo is refitted.

Thanks for the help so far

Jon

 

[volvopaul]

In preparation I am about to order this kit Exhaust Turbo Gasket Set for Volvo Penta Diesel 31, 32, 41, 42, 43, 44
and clean all mating faces - change the oil filter out this weekend and pour new oil in the engine - I will top up the coolant once the turbo is refitted.

Thanks for the help so far

Jon

So did your turbo need a new exhaust housing ?

 

[jon and michie]

Hi Paul - I have yet to find out - parcel farce was slow at delivering my parcel.
When the rebuilders get back to me with their findings I will find out if I do I will contact you via email/pm
And will update this thread

Jon

 

[jon and michie]

Right as an update - My Turbo has arrived back home, unfortunately working away at the moment so I am planning for when I get home to go to my boat a few days later but as you can see in the photo I need to paint it.
I am thinking of using heat resistant paint as it get hot I wouldnt want the paint to crack or burn.
can anyone point me in the right direction on what is a match with the infamous volvo green ?

I am looking forward to fitting it especially now it has the stainless steel sleeve welded so no further corrosion.


Jon