Small refit Merry Fisher 805
- Thread starter jakew009
- Start date
Alicatt
Well-known member
On Casper while stripping out some of the panelling in the heads I found a previous owner had fitted a hot air/ water heater Webasto thingy that has really scorched the veneer on the divide between the galley and the heads. it will be tidied up and then it will have a new lining put on it wich will contain the hob and sink. I have a 8x4 sheet of aluminium backed panel which will be getting folded into shape to replace the sink /hob and cover the lefthand wall.
The technician that came to do the winterizing of the engine said he ripped out the water heater as it was badly installed and a likely to cause a fire.
The current hob/sink is pop riveted to the fiberglass carcass of the galley, it is original fitment.
The wall on the left is where it is burned, could have been from the 2 burner hob but it is so rusted that I doubt it has been used in years.
Water pump for the sink is under the shelf in the heads, I will be replacing the water pipes etc and putting a stopcock on the exit from the tank, there is none at the moment, nor is there one on the diesel tank.
The technician that came to do the winterizing of the engine said he ripped out the water heater as it was badly installed and a likely to cause a fire.
The current hob/sink is pop riveted to the fiberglass carcass of the galley, it is original fitment.
The wall on the left is where it is burned, could have been from the 2 burner hob but it is so rusted that I doubt it has been used in years.
Water pump for the sink is under the shelf in the heads, I will be replacing the water pipes etc and putting a stopcock on the exit from the tank, there is none at the moment, nor is there one on the diesel tank.
You could use the oil off my engine to cook it in firstYou could eat your dinner off that engine
jakew009
Well-known member
On the basis this may be useful to someone in the future (and it’ll remind me when I come to order it)
Exhaust hose is 89mm. 3.45m from transom outlet to waterlock. 0.75m from water lock to engine. Could probably get away with 4m as it does a loop under the transom over the rudder.
Engine seacock is 1.5 inches and the intake hose is 32mm. 2m is plenty.
Toilet inlet is 19mm, outlet is 38mm.
Engine black coolant hose I’m assuming is 16mm (5/8) but need to check that. Outside diameter is about 24mm
Diesel pipe is 10mm internal. 7m would be loads
Exhaust hose is 89mm. 3.45m from transom outlet to waterlock. 0.75m from water lock to engine. Could probably get away with 4m as it does a loop under the transom over the rudder.
Engine seacock is 1.5 inches and the intake hose is 32mm. 2m is plenty.
Toilet inlet is 19mm, outlet is 38mm.
Engine black coolant hose I’m assuming is 16mm (5/8) but need to check that. Outside diameter is about 24mm
Diesel pipe is 10mm internal. 7m would be loads
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Bouba
Well-known member
These records are important....usually when someone goes to the trouble of making an online diary it means a lot of love, time, effort and expense went into the work... and any new owner will appreciate that
Greg2
Well-known member
Absolutely.
We did a lot of work on our last boat, a Sealine S34, and I did a thread on the Sealine Forum to share what we had done. I did it solely for the shared interest with like minded folk but when we decided to sell I advertised it on the Sealine Forum boats for sales section and a chap bought it who had seen what we had done and how we looked aft the boat. Very little/no quibble on price because he knew what he was getting.
Now on the third winter of refit on our current boat.
Just wish I could find a seller like me when we buy!
.
jamie langstone
Active member
Any more updates as i have a 805 and find this all very interesting.
jakew009
Well-known member
Yes, just haven't had a chance to post. And been doing mainly fibreglass work which is slow and tedious and there's not much to show for all my efforts
And got a tradeshow at NEC next week which has consumed all my time. Get that out the way and I will take a week off and get cracking.
jakew009
Well-known member
OK so it's taking forever but that's mainly because I've had no time to spend on it. But hopefully I can now get back to it.
Replacing the seacocks (and moving them) has turned into a way bigger job that I thought it was going to be.
Anyway a little bit of progress.
Found this access panel underneath the steering wheel that gives you access to the front of the fresh water tank. Now I can access this one I'll have replaced pretty much every single hose on the boat
Measured up to check there was enough space to replace the cable steering with hydraulic because I wanted to add autopilot. Seems like there will be loads of space. I ordered a Hydrodrive kit (from Tenten Boats as they were by far the cheapest): Hydrodrive MU50-TF MRA inbaoird steering kit, 569,00 €
I looked at various options but Hydrodrive seemed to be well made, used relatively decent hydraulic hoses and was also the cheapest. Only downside is it has taken forever to turn up (and is still with DHL). Bill Higham are dealers for Hydrodrive in UK but their prices are stupid.
I think it's a Vetus tiller arm. Looking at the Vetus spec sheet I think I need to drill out another hole because the hydraulic ram will have less travel than the original cable steering.
I removed this abortion the previous owner concocted from copper piping
And replaced it with some flexi hoses and proper tees. Obviously not connected up properly yet because I need to fit lots of batteries in this locker. At the moment the heating circuit tees off to go to the calorifier and the windscreen demister, I was debating if it would be better in series.
The old seawater intake, speed sensor and depth sensor. I'm not sure if it was factory fit but it was a mixture of sikaflex and fibreglass and I decided to rip it all out and move it closer to the bulkhead to free up more space.
Digging out rotten sikaflex and plywood.
Forgot to take any pictures of the fibreglassing but here it is being faired off. Ended up having to grind out a massive patch to get a sufficient taper to build it back up.
And inside had to rebuild the liner as well. Bought some fibreglass sheets off eBay as I couldn't be bothered to laminate my own.
And then faired it all off smooth. And prepared the hull for the new through hulls.
Used heat gun to remove the hull stripe, looks much more modern with it gone.
Then drilled out for the new engine sea water inlet and a Airmar DST810 triducer.
Spent ages messing around in the toilet adding fibreglass backing place to increase the hull thickness for the TruDesign through hulls.
Just need to sikaflex them in and should be good for the rest of the boats life.
Then got on with flowcoating the lazarette locker.
Going to flow coat the plywood bulkhead as well to seal that up.
Replacing the seacocks (and moving them) has turned into a way bigger job that I thought it was going to be.
Anyway a little bit of progress.
Found this access panel underneath the steering wheel that gives you access to the front of the fresh water tank. Now I can access this one I'll have replaced pretty much every single hose on the boat
Measured up to check there was enough space to replace the cable steering with hydraulic because I wanted to add autopilot. Seems like there will be loads of space. I ordered a Hydrodrive kit (from Tenten Boats as they were by far the cheapest): Hydrodrive MU50-TF MRA inbaoird steering kit, 569,00 €
I looked at various options but Hydrodrive seemed to be well made, used relatively decent hydraulic hoses and was also the cheapest. Only downside is it has taken forever to turn up (and is still with DHL). Bill Higham are dealers for Hydrodrive in UK but their prices are stupid.
I think it's a Vetus tiller arm. Looking at the Vetus spec sheet I think I need to drill out another hole because the hydraulic ram will have less travel than the original cable steering.
I removed this abortion the previous owner concocted from copper piping
And replaced it with some flexi hoses and proper tees. Obviously not connected up properly yet because I need to fit lots of batteries in this locker. At the moment the heating circuit tees off to go to the calorifier and the windscreen demister, I was debating if it would be better in series.
The old seawater intake, speed sensor and depth sensor. I'm not sure if it was factory fit but it was a mixture of sikaflex and fibreglass and I decided to rip it all out and move it closer to the bulkhead to free up more space.
Digging out rotten sikaflex and plywood.
Forgot to take any pictures of the fibreglassing but here it is being faired off. Ended up having to grind out a massive patch to get a sufficient taper to build it back up.
And inside had to rebuild the liner as well. Bought some fibreglass sheets off eBay as I couldn't be bothered to laminate my own.
And then faired it all off smooth. And prepared the hull for the new through hulls.
Used heat gun to remove the hull stripe, looks much more modern with it gone.
Then drilled out for the new engine sea water inlet and a Airmar DST810 triducer.
Spent ages messing around in the toilet adding fibreglass backing place to increase the hull thickness for the TruDesign through hulls.
Just need to sikaflex them in and should be good for the rest of the boats life.
Then got on with flowcoating the lazarette locker.
Going to flow coat the plywood bulkhead as well to seal that up.
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Bouba
Well-known member
Looking really good
jakew009
Well-known member
It is easy to lose motivation to work on it when progress seems glacial, but then I look at the original photos and remind myself what a mess it was beforeLooking really good
Rangerman
Member
Best story on the forum!
Bouba
Well-known member
Customizing a production boat always leaves you with mixed feelings....you know you are making the boat far more useable and comfortable....but you always at the back of your mind think that you have made the boat harder to sell compared to a stock example
jakew009
Well-known member
Absolutely agree, but I don't care the boat is for me and I will enjoy it more if I know it is 100% right.
Bouba
Well-known member
Yes….I’ve done several mods to my Swift Trawler
Seastoke
Well-known member
We all can answer that.
jakew009
Well-known member
Not much progress this evening either
Stripped off all the paraphernalia off these planks so I can make some new ones from some iroko.
Not sure what on earth the previous owner of the boat was thinking when he was installing these accessories. Woodscrews and home base rawl plugs, what a hero.
I found a photo of the previous owner drilling holes in my boat
At least fibreglass is easy to fix.
Thought I would make a start on patching the massive hole so it was dry for tomorrow.
I'm deliberately not removing the rust stains yet as it will make me feel better when i finally wash them away and the whole boat looks fresh again.
Then made some more investments
Stripped off all the paraphernalia off these planks so I can make some new ones from some iroko.
Not sure what on earth the previous owner of the boat was thinking when he was installing these accessories. Woodscrews and home base rawl plugs, what a hero.
I found a photo of the previous owner drilling holes in my boat
At least fibreglass is easy to fix.
Thought I would make a start on patching the massive hole so it was dry for tomorrow.
I'm deliberately not removing the rust stains yet as it will make me feel better when i finally wash them away and the whole boat looks fresh again.
Then made some more investments
Greg2
Well-known member
Could you point me in the direction of the supplier of your new transom shower fitting please? It looks to be the same as ours, which is in need of replacement.
j24jam
Active member
Do you plan on using the hob via inverter, or shore power only?
I hadn't seen such a low power 1kw induction hob before, so it's a nice idea. If running via inverter, how much battery Ah do you need for say 30 mins of cooking time at max power?
I hadn't seen such a low power 1kw induction hob before, so it's a nice idea. If running via inverter, how much battery Ah do you need for say 30 mins of cooking time at max power?
jakew009
Well-known member
These were the two I bought as I wanted the longer hose to use to rinse the cockpit down.
Boat Hot & Cold Shower Mixer Tap Classic Evo Housing Deck Water | eBay
Classic Evo Deck Shower Box White Housing Push Button Shower Head 4m Hose | eBay
But the hose part looks to have been the last one but there are various other on eBay like Osculati Classic Evo White Shower Box PVC Hose 2.5mm Flat mounting | eBay
jakew009
Well-known member
The boat lives on a swinging mooring so an induction hob is probably not the most obvious choice.
My reasoning was:
a) I wanted to get rid of gas, no real reason other than I dislike everything about gas bottles. And I hate cleaning gas hobs.
b) I wanted a minimal kitchen look with the most worktop space possible, and I’m going to cnc router the worktop so the sterling hob sits completely flush with the worktop. So when you are not using it you don’t even know it’s there.
c) I don’t think we will use it to cook on very much anyway (the saving will pay for one of those little transom barbecues).
d) I’ve got space to put some massive solar panels on the flat roof
e) I’m going to try and fit 3 x 300Ah lithium batteries so I’m going to have a vast amount of power. Theoretically I could run the induction hob at its highest power setting (1500W) for nearly 7.5 hours or its lowest setting for over 50 hours.
My company builds off grid solar powered cctv systems so I have access to trade pricing and we import our own batteries from China. Lithium is insanely cheap now.
The saving on the sink and induction hob vs a Smev style gas unit (which look naff imo) will easily pay for the inverter.
