Yet another go at a Hunter window...

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yachtorion

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So my last attempt at sealing the starboard window was as unsuccessful as the former one. I'm still reluctant to go back to self tappers holding the window in... so I've come up with a new plan.

I've obtained some all-aluminium closed end rivets and some more foam tape. I'm planning to seal the window on using the rivets at 2 inch intervals. I've bought alu washers to use as backers for the rivets. I've sized the rivets to be in the correct grip range but with minimal amount poking through so that the remainder should be absorbed within the thick closed cell insulation I'm putting inside the windows.

Any thoughts please?
 
Why not use nuts and bolts. Much easier to take off next time and I would be concerned about the rivets exerting too much pressure on the perspex.
 
ghostlymoron said:
Why not use nuts and bolts. Much easier to take off next time and I would be concerned about the rivets exerting too much pressure on the perspex.
Click to expand...

Interscrews is the way to do it....... They are expensive but you can enjoy the quality .... or was that expensive watches
 
Last set of leaks I had, I took the lazy option of anointing with Capt Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure.
Wasn't leaking last time I looked, and Mother Nature was good enough to provide a meteorological leak test.
Doubtless I will need to do it properly at some time.
 
VicS said:
Interscrews is the way to do it....... They are expensive but you can enjoy the quality .... or was that expensive watches
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback folks!

I figure it's easier to get an even tension and therefore reliable seal with the rivets and I don't need to drag someone else along with me when I go to do it. I can't find interscrews the right size or in a suitable material... Because the rivets are all aluminium and I'm using a backing washer I don't think I'll crack the acrylic.

I'm hoping that if I get this right the windows will last another 25 years. Not bothered about taking them off being difficult.

I could just captain tolley - but at best it's probably a temporary fix...
 
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VicS said:
Interscrews is the way to do it....... They are expensive but you can enjoy the quality .... or was that expensive watches
Click to expand...

I used these on my last boat. It is important to size the hole accurately so that the ridges on the shoulders press exactly into the hole and do not rotate. Some interscrews have smooth shoulders, but ridged ones will not rotate when pressed in such as these (scroll down page) http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shopping.asp?intDepartmentId=4
 
Assuming it's a hunter frameless window bonded directly to the fibreglass , i found in the end i could not fix my leak effectively.
Only use Capn tolleys for tiny invisible leaks , it does not fix 'big' gaps , ask me how i know.

In the end i removed the whole widow and rebonded it using Sikaflex 295UV with the primer used before the sealant is applied.
This provided an effective fix.

Note, if your window is as described you must use a UV resistant bonding agent cos the UV is going right through the window and is shining on the sealant and degrading it.

Do not omit the primer stage , masking on the boat and on the window to make sure the bloody stuff goes where it should , again ask me how i know!

The only issue with this process is that both products are reassuringly expensive.

One issue you can get with a bolted or screw approach is that the polycarbonate or acyrilic has a different expansion co-officient to fibreglass so can have problems if it's fixed too 'securely' to the fibreglass.
This is why Hunter only use about 6 fixings on a large window , at least on my boat.

Hope this helps.
 
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