Yet another 1GM 10 question

Sniper

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I think I know the answer to this, but I’d like to check with those who have greater knowledge.

I have recently bought a second hand but well looked after Engine from a reputable private source. Originally fitted to a sail drive, the engine has been married to a conventional gearbox for shaft drive. I have fitted the whole outfit as a direct replacement for the ageing 1GM Which has done well for 30 odd years but is now starting to corrode badly. New engine runs well so I have no concerns about this. However, the gearbox seems to be an issue. Gears seem to engage ok, but there is no way the engine is making peak revs going ahead, leading me to think that the gearbox ratio is wrong for the propeller that I have already fitted (Previous gearbox ratio was 1:3.22, and the old engine was still capable of spinning up to 3,200 rpm given time).

This to me seems like the new gearbox is a different ratio and I am therefore overpropped. I will check the ratio next time I am on the boat. However, when I put the engine astern, there is clearly a lot of slippage , I assume in the reverse cone? The engine spins up no problem but the prop shaft can easily be prevented from turning by putting a foot on it (don’t ask!)

seems I have two problems - one an installation issue, the other a mechanical fault. I still have the old engine with gearbox attached and the gearbox always worked well and seems to be in good condition. I am thinking therefore of putting the old gearbox onto the new engine. As far as I can tell, this is simply a case of undoing the 8 flange bolts and swapping them over. Propellor issues sorted and decent performance astern.

Am I on the right lines? Any obvious problems? I will of course be having a chat with the vendor but I do appreciate that buying secondhand is caveat emptor and these things happen.
 
I agree that the "new" gearbox seems to have a problem with the reverse cone clutch. The gears themselves are constantly engaged it is just whether the forward or reverse cone clutch is "engaged " that changes the direction of rotation the output shaft.

There seems to be a lot of info on setting up and adjustment of the shifter in the manual .... Perhaps disconnect the external linkage and investigate further

Manual here:- https://www.jeanneau-owners.com/Manuals/3GM Engine Service Manual.pdf
 
Had the slippage prob with a 1GM. Inside looked OK, but one had to push the lever past the indent to get drive. Then some other problems on the engine made us swop it for a 1GM10, so never sorted the drive. Bits still in garage, so might take a look again sometime.
 
Aren't some 1GM gearboxes dog clutches not cones? Vague memory, I could well be wrong on this.
ISTM that gearbox trouble is quite rare on these, so there must be lots of usable gearboxes lying around somewhere?
 
Aren't some 1GM gearboxes dog clutches not cones? Vague memory, I could well be wrong on this.
ISTM that gearbox trouble is quite rare on these, so there must be lots of usable gearboxes lying around somewhere?
They have a tendancy to glaze the cones, I believe, which is sorted by stripping the box down and glazebusting them. Symptoms are a long, shuddery period when taking up drive,
 
Thanks to all for their input. I am going to swap the gearboxes over and the vendor has agreed that we can come to an arrangement about the faulty gearbox. The overpropping is after all not his problem. If that doesn't sort things out he will give me a different (working) box and I'll have to get the prop changed. I'll let you know how I get on
 
They have a tendancy to glaze the cones, I believe, which is sorted by stripping the box down and glazebusting them. Symptoms are a long, shuddery period when taking up drive,
Maybe it's just the saildrive model which is dog clutch?
The current 1GM shaft drive gearbox is listed as cone clutch, the saildrive dog.
When I owned a 1GM, I never looked inside the gearbox, it just kept working. That was 20-odd years ago and it wasn't new then....
 
Maybe it's just the saildrive model which is dog clutch?
The current 1GM shaft drive gearbox is listed as cone clutch, the saildrive dog.
When I owned a 1GM, I never looked inside the gearbox, it just kept working. That was 20-odd years ago and it wasn't new then....
1GM current? Thought they stopped when the 1GM10 came out..
If anybody has 'deglazed' an older box, I would be grateful to hear about it. The cones looked OK, but it slipped in reverse, no juddering.
 
1GM current? Thought they stopped when the 1GM10 came out..
If anybody has 'deglazed' an older box, I would be grateful to hear about it. The cones looked OK, but it slipped in reverse, no juddering.
How's your gearbox oil level? Mine improved a lot when I topped it up - I wouldn't have thought it could escape easily but it was at minimu when I checked.
 
How's your gearbox oil level? Mine improved a lot when I topped it up - I wouldn't have thought it could escape easily but it was at minimu when I checked.
While the boat was stored for several years, rainwater seemed to have got in and the box was full of emulsion, but no corrosion at all. Drained and flushed, then worked OK, some months later it started slipping.
 
1GM current? Thought they stopped when the 1GM10 came out..
If anybody has 'deglazed' an older box, I would be grateful to hear about it. The cones looked OK, but it slipped in reverse, no juddering.
I have used valve grinding paste between the two mating faces of the cone and rotated each back and forth as if you were grinding valves in. Cleaned the cones scrupulously with thinners to remove all traces of the paste. Worked perfectly after with a definite clunk going into both gears.
 
I have used valve grinding paste between the two mating faces of the cone and rotated each back and forth as if you were grinding valves in. Cleaned the cones scrupulously with thinners to remove all traces of the paste. Worked perfectly after with a definite clunk going into both gears.
Thank you for that, will give it a try. Any thoughts on why it was reverse?
 
Thank you for that, will give it a try. Any thoughts on why it was reverse?

In #4 you said "but one had to push the lever past the indent to get drive."

I would also be looking at the adjustment of the shift mechanism to see if there was another reason for this
The engagement should be "servo assisted " by the fact that the clutch slides on a spiral spline which should pull the clutch into positive engagement as soon as it starts to "bite".
IIRC there are two slightly different variations depending upon age

See the workshop manual for more info .
 
In #4 you said "but one had to push the lever past the indent to get drive."

I would also be looking at the adjustment of the shift mechanism to see if there was another reason for this
The engagement should be "servo assisted " by the fact that the clutch slides on a spiral spline which should pull the clutch into positive engagement as soon as it starts to "bite".
IIRC there are two slightly different variations depending upon age

See the workshop manual for more info .
Vic, after it started slipping, I had it out and stripped it, thinking the previous dunking, might have done something I had not spotted. Everything was in good order and the linkage I had adjusted before. To get it to work, I put a length of line that came out in the cockpit to pull on. The extra on the lever got it to engage, but obviously a short term bodge. Now it is out of use, another good look and deglaze. It might end up in a little river boat here.
 
Just to complete and sign off my original posting- today I changed over the gearboxes so I now have a 1GM10 running through a 1:3.22 ratio gearbox, which is compatible with the original propellor. No sea trials yet, but everything seems to be in order and the engine now revs much higher.

I was surprised just how easy the changeover was; it took me about two hours on the mooring and I didn’t even need to move the engine.
 
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