Yarmouth 23 Teak Deck question

MINESAPINT2

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I was advised a couple of days ago the Teak Decks on a Yarmouth 23 was fastened only with Sikaflex or some other similar adhesive and were not mechanically fastened with screws etc. I thought this unusual/unlikely!

Does anyone happen to have any specific knowledge of how they are actually fastened down. Please no guess work

Thanks

Mike
 
I was advised a couple of days ago the Teak Decks on a Yarmouth 23 was fastened only with Sikaflex or some other similar adhesive and were not mechanically fastened with screws etc. I thought this unusual/unlikely!

Does anyone happen to have any specific knowledge of how they are actually fastened down. Please no guess work

Thanks

Mike


Disclaimer - I don't have a teak deck!

However, my understanding was that a teak deck that is glued down is actually better than one that is screwed down, because the screw holes potentially make pathways for water to penetrate. Further, when the teak wears out (as it will, sooner or later), replacement of the deck is much simpler if it is glued down.
 
However, my understanding was that a teak deck that is glued down is actually better than one that is screwed down, because the screw holes potentially make pathways for water to penetrate. Further, when the teak wears out (as it will, sooner or later), replacement of the deck is much simpler if it is glued down.

Correct on both counts.
 
So I am wrong to think all teak decks would need to be mechanically fastened. I could not comprehend how the teak could be kept held in place while the adhesive sets given the substantial side pressure when following the curve of the side deck.

I have seen on a forum some teak decks are screwed from underneath so no plugs in the deck. (not a Yarmouth)

I have emailed the builder to ask (3 times) but no reply.

Can anyone who actually owns one confirm, might save me an 800 mile round trip

Thanks

Mike
 
So I am wrong to think all teak decks would need to be mechanically fastened. I could not comprehend how the teak could be kept held in place while the adhesive sets given the substantial side pressure when following the curve of the side deck.

I have seen on a forum some teak decks are screwed from underneath so no plugs in the deck. (not a Yarmouth)

The teak can be clamped in place, sometimes using screws in the caulking gap (these are subsequently removed and the holes sealed). Another method is to pre-assemble the teak in panels and then glue the whole panel down, often using vacuum-bagging.

I've never heard of a deck being screwed from below!
 
Just to add to the previous explanations. If the teak deck is laid plank by plank, then the normal method iss to clamp it horizontally against the gunwhale and vertically with heavy weights to keep it in place while the adhesive cures - usually over night. Then a spacer put in to keep the next the next plank independent while it is glued down in the same way. The seams are then filled with caulking. This is the most common way of attaching teak and vastly superior to mechanically fastened.

The alternative is to pre-form in panels on a jig using vacuum bagging to attach to a backing. The panel is then glued down to the deck also using vacuum bagging. This is more common on mass produced boats where the cost of the jigs etc can be recovered.

As you are probably aware, Yarmouths have had more than one actual builder, first in the UK and second in Sri Lanka and it could well be that production methods differ between the two.
 
Thanks PVB.

I have read in the last day or so about a boat with teak decks and the owner started to notice tiny shiny bits showing in the teak. Yes you guessed it - screw points.

What I am concerned about is holes in the deck (obviously) and particularly where there is sandwich construction (balsa). If indeed it is determined the teak is not permanently fastened from above or below with screws which should be pretty straightforward if I did not live 400 miles away from the boat. It does not guarantee there are no holes in the deck, as you indicate they may have been put in temporarily to hold the teak while adhesive sets.

It is pretty clear the builder is not going to be forthcoming with this info. really the only person who can answer this correctly.

Mike
 
Just to add to the previous explanations. If the teak deck is laid plank by plank, then the normal method iss to clamp it horizontally against the gunwhale and vertically with heavy weights to keep it in place while the adhesive cures - usually over night. Then a spacer put in to keep the next the next plank independent while it is glued down in the same way. The seams are then filled with caulking. This is the most common way of attaching teak and vastly superior to mechanically fastened.

The alternative is to pre-form in panels on a jig using vacuum bagging to attach to a backing. The panel is then glued down to the deck also using vacuum bagging. This is more common on mass produced boats where the cost of the jigs etc can be recovered.

As you are probably aware, Yarmouths have had more than one actual builder, first in the UK and second in Sri Lanka and it could well be that production methods differ between the two.

Thanks tranona,

Good point. Do you happen to know when manufacturing switched from UK to Sri Lanka.

I have emailed Sri Lanka and received no reply

Mike
 
What I am concerned about is holes in the deck (obviously) and particularly where there is sandwich construction (balsa).

Many builders used a closed-cell foam (Divinycell, etc) rather than balsa in sandwich construction. With or without teak decks, I'd be concerned about an older boat with balsa-cored decks, as there are usually lots of potential entry holes for water into the core.
 
Many builders used a closed-cell foam (Divinycell, etc) rather than balsa in sandwich construction. With or without teak decks, I'd be concerned about an older boat with balsa-cored decks, as there are usually lots of potential entry holes for water into the core.

Thanks PVB

Boat is 13 years old and I would guess the question ref the sandwich construction is one for the builder who has not replied to my 3 emails about the teak decks. To be honest I have no idea if the Yarmouth 23 has sandwich construction anyway?

Mike
 
No screws I can see? No gurantee they're all the same of course, but f.w.i.w. from this one http://morganmarine.com/boats-for-sale/Yarmouth-23-Gaff-Rig-Topsail-Cutter-9984.aspx

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According to the PBO boat test, the first 30 boats were built in the UK before production moved to Sri Lanka.

Would not be particularly worried about the teak decks, or the cored GRP deck. There will be no fastenings in the teak, and the boats are new enough for wear to be minimal. This type of boat gets very little wear on the side decks and coachroof as there is little need for crew to go stomping about the deck. If there is any wear it will be in the cockpit, but even then doubt you will notice it. More important there are very few fittings that go through the teak, just genoa tracks and clutches. Looking at the various photos of the boat, I would say that the teak panels are pre made and vacuum bagged on, rather than being laid traditionally as i described earlier.

Much of the poor reputation for teak deck is based on the screwed down type where you get uneven wear around the bungs plus water getting in there and in seams that fail because the planks move. This does not happen on glued down decks and you can expect a much longer trouble free life from this type. Regular washing and periodic treatment with a mould killer such as boracol is all they need.
 
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Have visited a couple of boat factories recently. Things will vary by brand, but in these ones the teak decks are bonded down to the deck moulding before the deck is fitted to the hull. In these cases a handful of screws were used at key points to aid bonding, then the screws removed and plugged.
 
Have visited a couple of boat factories recently. Things will vary by brand, but in these ones the teak decks are bonded down to the deck moulding before the deck is fitted to the hull. In these cases a handful of screws were used at key points to aid bonding, then the screws removed and plugged.

No need to use any locating screws if the teak is vacuum bagged onto the GRP as it is in the really modern factories (and in many custom builders as well). The Yarmouth in question only has panels of teak rather than the more traditional yacht laid style that is fitted round the coachroof etc. - see the photos above.
 
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