Uricanejack
Well-Known Member
Forget choosing diesels.
Get a chainsaw and make a well
Get a chainsaw and make a well
No, I am not saying that I am saying if you match the prop to absorb the power that the bigger engine will produce it will be "bigger" - usually pitch. So for each revolution will move the boat further - so for a given engine speed the boat will move faster.
No, afraid you misunderstand. The starting point is calculating what size of propeller you can use, but there are choices, depending on how much space you have and whether you want a 3 or 2 blade prop. Then you choose the engine to drive it. You can't always have the perfect prop, nor exactly the right amount of power, nor the reduction ratio to get the shaft speed you would like so it is a question of choosing the best compromise. So, if you have a bigger engine you need a bigger prop, otherwise the engine will not be under load.But you have also been saying that the propeller choice is determined solely by the boat and that the engine is chosen to match the propeller.
No, afraid you misunderstand. The starting point is calculating what size of propeller you can use, but there are choices, depending on how much space you have and whether you want a 3 or 2 blade prop. Then you choose the engine to drive it. You can't always have the perfect prop, nor exactly the right amount of power, nor the reduction ratio to get the shaft speed you would like so it is a question of choosing the best compromise. So, if you have a bigger engine you need a bigger prop, otherwise the engine will not be under load.
Can I jump on the roundabout for a mo?
The prop has to match the engine.
The engine has to have enough grunt to drive the boat.
The engine has to fit in the boat.
The prop has to fit in the aperture/under hull etc.
So go round and round until it fits![]()
I think we may be violently agreeing that engine, prop and boat form a system, no part of which can be independently specified and each part of which brings its own constraints to the optimum solution, no?
My boat was only supplied with 9hp, which I find quite adequate. However, if it ever dies on me I shall replace it with something a bit bigger, mainly to get the smoothness of two cylinders. There seems to be no consensus in the owner's club about which to go for ... anything from 12hp to 20hp, apparently.
Do the same as I did. Replace the 1GM with a Nanni 14. Almost direct, although 10mm longer and mounts slightly further apart fore and aft and higher so beds need packing upwards. Exhaust on the other side and 40mm instead of 45mm so you need some form of adaptor if using the same water trap etc. Otherwise relatively easy and well worthwhile. You may need to change the prop depending on your current ratio and the new one to absorb the additional power. your maximum speed would increase from the current 5.3 to just over 6 knots and keep your current cruising speed the same at lower rpm, but still using the same amount of fuel. Would cost you around £3k net of the selling price of your Yanmar.
Sorry touther way round.I chose the 3ym20 beause it runs with less vibration. It is said that an odd number of cylinders run smoother than engines with an even number, excepting single cylinder.
Thread on this subject here...
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?79469-Engine-HP-size
My boat is long keeled, 27ft wl and 9 tons. I have a 40 hp Yanmar with matched prop. It works very well. So 4hp /ton seems about right, in my case.
NO NEED TO OVERPOWER
The 3YM20 in our case would have been overkill; an expensive error that could not have been corrected.